2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I’ve been through the electrical and I’ve done the ground references and have thrown the 0216 code since I bought the truck but I got away with it for a long time by getting an air dog and improving the fuel to the pump (at mopar1973mans suggestion) and it went away for a yr or two but now I’m consistently getting the dead pedal again and throwing the code again I’m pretty sure the best way to fix it is replace the vp44 just really looking for mopar1973man to send me the info to buy one from the forum cuz I trust his opinion thx for ur time and anyone else who wasted their time reading this.. my truck is an 01 24v ho 6 sp stock injectors

Can an oil pressure gauge be used for fuel pressure? I hooked it up to both test ports on filter housing with no readings. I cracked the line each time to get the air out and has fuel but get no readings. Can this not be done or am I doing something wrong. Thanks in advance I’m currently waiting on vulcans lift pump relocation kit and 3/8 fuel line from the pump to the housing and also to the vp44. It should be here tomorrow or the next day. I’ll be able to use the tee for the gauge then. I have an edge comp box, without tap, at the moment. Could this setup with a carter pump be enough to tap the pump possibly?

Ive got a 2000 3500 24v 47re dana 80 dually 3.55 2wd and im talking to pyle bros axle shop in houston about ugrading to 4.10 and he mentioned about getting the trutrac. Im just hauling the backhoe around town a little. Is the truetrac worth it for my use. I like the idea of improving the traction with 2wd. Ill be hauling the drump trailer also too. Ive read that heavy towing isnt good for the truetrac. What do yall think about that?

Hey Fellas, Can I swap clusters without any issue with the odometer? I don't care what the odometer says but want to make sure the it won't throw a code.

So the other week I installed one of Southbend's street dual discs, along with an upgraded input shaft and upgraded southbend hydros. I noticed that it was very hard to get into gear, and yes I have the pedal adjusted above the brake about 1"and I understand its a heavy dual disc. Figured it just needed to drive it a bit and put a couple miles on it. Long story short I needed to replace my transfer case tailshaft seal. Then when pulling my truck out of the garage I noticed that when trying to put it in reverse the truck was moving slightly backwards, telling me that the clutch is clearly dragging. My first attempt to solve this issue was to call Southbend thi…

Like the title says, my transmission is hard to shift. Real notchy, and sometimes a bastard to put into gear or reverse. It's rebuilt, and has maybe 400 miles on it. Running Lucas 50wt oil as recommended. But it just doesn't feel right. In another post I stated I had the clutch pedal adjusted way our to get rid of the slop of no bushing. The clutch seems to release ok, it doesn't crawl when in gear. But I worry it's something else. I will say when I put the transmission back in I fought to put it in the last tiny bit in the pilot bearing. Had to torque it down, but I did it as slowly and gently as I could,and the gap was less than half an inch when I started. Not sure if …

My truck is a 2001 2500 ram with the 24 valve. When I first start my truck up in the morning I can see the alternator kicking on and off back and forth. It gets down to about 10 volts and then goes back up to 14. It’s so bad I can watch my headlights dim and get brighter, I am wondering if this is normal operation or not? I also have a problem with my truck shutting off at idle out of nowhere, wondering if the injection pump is getting low voltage every now and then causing it to shut the truck off. Then the truck starts right back up no problem. I have done the AC noise mod and replaced the alternator about a month ago. If the pcm controls the alternator cut in/ cut out …

Hi, I am looking for a flashing LED or similar alarm kit to install by my fuel pressure gauge to alert me that the feed pressure at the VP44 inlet is at or below 10 psi. I want this set point because that is what Cummins specify is the minimum required and everything I have read indicates that below that pressure I am damaging the VP44. So far all the alarms I have found listed for my truck activate at 5 psi or less, I emailed three suppliers, two haven't replied and the one who did admitted that although his alarm kit is listed for my truck the 5 psi setting is too low to be any real use to protect the VP44. Thanks.

Truck has intermittent power steering, moaning and groaning. Going to start simple with fluid. Any last minute advice on fluid choice? I don’t have a jack to get the front wheels off of the ground, will get one if you guys tell me that is the only way. I have jack stands just no jack. Any and all help is appreciated.

I have a 2001 4x4 with a six speed transmission and 200000 miles. The truck is a one owner, I bought it from my Father in law and is completely stock. I have been around the truck since it was bought new. The truck was really strong until around 190000 miles when the VP44 went out. The pump has been replaced with a unit from a local re builder in Memphis TN. Since the VP44 replacement the truck has not been the same. I drove it around 200 miles yesterday and it averaged 11MPG. I have owned 24 valve Dodge trucks in the past and have always gotten high teens on fuel mileage and had much more power. When I am accelerating thru the gears I cant …

Hello, first time posting here. I've done a lot of reading about this subject, and want to check my assumptions before I start dumping more money into parts. I have a 01 Dodge 6spd 350k that ran ok until it suddenly would not start . Truck Had 1693, 1689 and 0576 Codes. Replaced the VP44 and stock lift pump with a FASS DDRP, thinking lift pump had toasted VP44. Bled the system everyway to Sunday and still could not get the truck to fire or get high pressure fuel output. Got OBDII Scanner and cleared codes, 1689 code did not return, but truck still has 1693 and 0576, I cannot get those to clear with the scan tool I have. Got sent a breakout box yes…

I’ve had an oil leak ever since I got this truck but have been fixing other stuff first and have got to the oil leak... so now, I’ve pressure washes and cleaned the the undercarriage real good and this is what I’ve found... my question is what is this? (See pic) thx in advance for y’alls help!!!

So I put that airdog 150 on my truck, and , one morning it would not start, zero fuel pressure from the gauge. After troubleshooting the obvious suspects, I took a rubber mallet and started tapping on the air dog pump itself. The air dog came to life and the truck started as normal and ran great the rest of the day. Next few days same thing, I always had to take rubber mallet while somebody else was turning over the truck and it would finally start. So I called air dong and told him I have a bad pump, and they said take the gears out the side and soak them in motor all overnight. I have not done that yet? Is it a waste of time or has anyone else had this problem before?

Have a 2001 dodge nv4500 I’m having issues once the gauge starts to move and truck warms up I’m having a cuttting out issue around 18-2200 rpm it’ll cut out like it’s banging off the rev limiter have some whiteish blue smoke and you can floor it and it goes away. Ive replaced the. Injection pump,lift pump with a air dog 150, injectors, turbo, cam sensor. Tpps, map sensor, IAT sensor, coolaint temp sensor, fuel lresure is 18 at idle 14 at WOT. Funny thing is if you drive the truck like a jack *** it doesn’t mess up but if you drive it normal it messes up every time. Ecm???

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly…

Any of you put the 3rd gen bar on your truck. I have put a couple good 2nd gen ones on and a couple low buck specials on it. They all fail. I have driven this truck 20 k in 6 years. I do have 285 tires on it with M/T aluminum wheels. They are actually a lot lighter than my chrome original ones with the 245s on it. So I am thinking of buying the bracket that bolts to the frame and putting the 3rd gen bar on. I can get the bars for free if the stock ones fit my truck. Thanks for any input, positive or negative. That is how we learn.

The truck is a 98.5 leaks power steering fluid, couple weeks ago had to add more power steering fluid before leaving work loosened the 90° fitting for my fass to the IP above the power steering reservoir. I thought by chance I heard a crack noise when doing so. Drove an hour home truck seemed to be running okay. That night I went hunting and when I went to leave the truck had a hard time starting like it had air in my lines so I figured I just didn’t have the fitting tight. A I also noticed at that time the truck didn’t have the same throttle response etc. I took the 90° fitting off and tightended the banjo to the injection pump before reinstalling 90. Now this is here …

Dang! I'm not catching any breaks these days. Doing my weekend inspection on the truck and noticed my coolant reservoir is down to the add mark just about and then noticed the small drip puddles on the floor. Tracked down the leak to my oil cooler gasket is leaking. Hopefully, that is a fairly straightforward repair for that gasket. Any information on this task would be great.

looking for advice from anyone who has done a cad delete and free spin kit. Who did you go through? EMS is the only place I have found that offers a 32 spline delete kit for the 00-02 Dana 60. What do you do to have 4wd indication (dash light) after delete? Leaning towards Spyntec shorties anyone have first hand experience? I’m going to have the front end apart to replace ball joints and I’m seriously contemplating on cad delete and free spins. Huge chunk of $ I know but I may just do it. Also axle seals hear they’re a real pain? Any advice would be very much appreciated

My trans dip stick pops up a little, I shove it back down and 3 or 4 tanks worth of fuel later the dip stick has poped backed out maybe half inch. Dont know what's causing it, vibration or pressure from venting is pushing it back out. Been doing this for long time. Any ideas what's going on? and if normal is it ok to put something on it to hold down to keep dust out? Do you have this problem? Are other vent holes maybe plugged and creating more venting out of dip stick hole?