2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Alright I’m hoping to seek some help on my 1999 24v cummins so I bought this truck thinking it was the best now it’s not turning out to be so I just put a new head on it head gasket arp studs the whole 9 but when I tried to start it it would run super rough and threw a p0237 code and a fault in comapin module code so I un hooked the battery’s to reset the whole truck and now it’s not connecting to my edge tunner and it won’t start or kick the lift pump on and I had some people say it could be the ecm but all the fuses have power and everything turns on in the cab nothing unusel but it’s just not hooking up to the edge and I plugged a scanner into it and it’s showing no co…

Ok, so I've got a 96, with the EMS offroad lockout kit installed, and i've been pulling and reinstalling the drivers side lockout multiple times in an effort to figure out what exactly is going on with the noises I'm hearing...I still swear it's the bearings, but I haven't been able to identify for sure...If anyone's near Camp Lejeune, NC, I'd love some help!:banghead:However, I recently started thinking, what are the differences in the knuckles and mounting between the 96 and 2001? The reason I'm asking, is that I'm wondering if there's a way to adapt to the 2001 disc brakes, so I can avoid having to press the rotors on and off the hub. This would be specific to the DR…

Had a slack day yesterday at work, nothing broke down for once so got on here and read some posts, what struck me and sticks out like a sore thumb is how unreliable these trucks can be on electrics.... post after post of dead vp's, dead ecu's, dead pcm's, bad connections, bad this and that..... Million mile engine bolted to a chocolate auto trans that just might run ok through the first year, I then got to thinking what it would mean to me here in the uk to just suffer 10% of the faults posted, I came to the conclusion that although I've been a diesel mechanic for 41 yrs now and have picked up a few things along the way I'd be struggling. I get diesel through work so…

I finally bit the bullet and ordered panels for the front doors on my 3500, sick of watching it rust away, company on ebay.com ships to the UK using Ebays GSP, $289 for left and right inner and outer panels, just shy of $440 to my door. I've got a mountain of work to do on it to put it back on the road and some of it not of interest here as it's a 5.9 V8 but here's the list anyway Intake manifold gasket, I have the kit just never got around to doing it Front door repairs both sides Dent in right front fender Bumpers front and rear, may make a pair New battery Passenger side rear door won't open, (this one is the one here thats not used) …

Hi guys I’ve been having this problem on my 02 and it’s driving me nuts. The drivers side rear brakes squeal loudly when accelerating/coasting. As soon as any pressure is applied to the brake pedal it stops. I had the same problem before I replaced the pads last year with ceramics. Thought maybe they were metallic, but it made no difference. I just took the caliper off today to take a look and grease things up. Still squealing. It doesn’t make any noise when cold until you drive maybe 5 miles. Any help appreciate as this is making my otherwise mint truck sound like a pos and it’s very annoying. Thanks!

Each time I've had a windshield replaced I've had leaks so is there anything I should watch out for with these glass shops? Perhaps go to a body shop instead? This break happened on my nice 90,000 mile second gen. It's a nice clean truck well maintained so I want it done right. Are there ways to do the job better on a second gen that I should know about? What to ask etc.?

I'm getting 12 volts on the metal housing of the ABS module. I disconnected the large plug off the top of the ABS module and now the housing doesn't have the 12 volts. Any idea what's going on here? And where to start troubleshooting?

Since I recently bought this truck (see sig) I noticed the PO had installed the left front wheel cover incorrectly. The center hub cover is on right but the large dish that covers the wheel itself is off center. Do I have to remove the lug nuts to straighten this cover? I haven't messed with it yet but planning on it later today just because it's irritating me. Lol I believe these are factory covers but not sure. I'll try to zoom in on a pic and post it.

Since I bought the truck 5 years ago or so I have been dealing with poor air flow from the heater and A/C. In fact, it struggles to keep the windshield defrosted, especially with several people in the truck. Once in a while, usually after start up, I get a faint smell of something burning and I have even had smoke come from the vents a couple of times. The problem has been getting worse so I finally decided to pull the HVAC box and found what I thought I would. The evaporator is caked in leaves and other debris. I looked all over for where the burning was coming from and the only thing that I can see is that the blower resistor was covered in the same debris. With t…

I bought a set of brand new 3rd gen Dodge AMP Research Power Steps and the Tyca Industries 2nd gen conversion kit to mount them on my 01. The magnetic switches that come with the Tyca conversion kit was wired as instructed - solid purple to left door magnetic switch, and purple/yellow to right door magnetic switch, and then the 2nd wires from each magnetic switch went to a known good ground. Neither step is working from them, so I pulled those POS magnetic switches out. For the 3rd Gen Dodges, they use a posi-loc terminal to tap into each door ajar switch at each door - solid purple for left front door, purple/grey for left rear door, purple/yell…

I never thought installing a brake booster, master cylinder and all four brake calipers could disable a truck for three days. So I installed everything and just shortly afterwards the ABS light and Brake light come on brakes start dragging. I bleed the brakes so much I ruined the bleeder seats. Pulling my hair out I just didnt get it. This morning I go and talk to a master Dodge mechanic and he knew exactly what was up. He had me put two 3/8 nuts between the master cylinder and the brake booster and go drive it. Sure nuff 300 yards down the road the brake light goes off the ABS light went off brakes stop dragging and everything is back to normal. The company I bought th…

Manufacturer of new hub assemblies for my 1999 Ram 2500 4X with TD says it's okay to have slop between the hub and knuckle since the four bolts will hold the hub in place, no problem. I say baloney, since the bolts should not be subject to any shear load, the purpose of the chamfered faces between the hub and knuckle. Additionally, OEM interference fit caused large problem in getting hub removed from knuckle. Unclear in Shop Manual whether interference fit required. Request advise.

Is it possible to program a second remote for a 1998 Dodge 3500? I have a working remote Ana ordered a second one all numbers are the same on both,

On Monday I took my alternator into the local shop and he called me yesterday to tell me it was just worn out. He showed me this morning the brushes were virtually gone and the slip rings were worn down almost 1/8” (radius). Why I didn't take photos I don't know, other than I really needed to be on my way to work after just buying a new one from him. I asked him it he thought it could be the OEM unit, and he said almost certainly. Not bad life at 346k miles! I put the last +70k miles on it. SURELY at some point it was rebuilt, or maybe someone swapped in a unit from a salvage truck; the little plastic cover has the Chrysler symbol on it.

Say you get stranded out in the middle of almost nowhere and your Cam sensor goes out. Isn't there a way you can just hot wire it till you get back into town?:think:What about the crank sensor too ?

Since I was waiting for my tuner to come back, I decided to tackle another issue that's bugged me: the hvac system. I about froze my toes off on the way back from North Dakota a few weeks ago, as I had no floor heat or defrost. Only worked on max a/c. I decided to pull the box and open it up. I wasn't paying attention when I split the case, and the top half came off suddenly, causing the bottom to fall and break the little door with the spring flap on it. I've tried unsuccessfully to epoxy and plastic weld it back together, but it always snaps. I've seen replacements online, but no way in hell am I paying $325 for a set of aluminum doors. So has anyone come ac…

I have a 96 Ram, one with the crappy paint job. I'm going to be repainting it soon and have some questions about the plastic trim pieces on top of the cab. Are you able to remove these pieces without breaking them so the can be reused? And if so do they just pull off? Can't find them in the LMC catalog or I would just replace them. Thanks, Bob

Some time ago before I needed to replace my heater core I remember reading a thread where Mike said " I'm gonna show you how easy it is to remove a dash on one of these trucks. I shoulda saved the write-up because now that I need it I can't find it. Can anyone tell me where the dash removal write-up is? :doh:Thanks, Dave

The seats in my 96 are getting pretty ratty and I'd like to swap them out for something better. Will any second gen truck seats work? Bob

Well. Finally was going to have my truck in working order until this. Went to my girlfriends. Came out to go home. To find my drivers side mirror laying in the ground and the passenger one flipped so far out it was flat and my truck smelling of beer. So I will be in search of a set of tow mirrors.