2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

416k miles and my fuel gauge wigged out and dropped to EMPTY and set the low fuel light. The part number is still valid and the total cost has gone up since the article. Now the price is $108 for a new float sender for the fuel tank same one as before but just extra $30. Fun is I'll pull the fuel line from the VP44 and just pump out the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Just got to jumper the AirDog 150 relay and allow the pump to do its job. Oh yeah I pulled up the Juniper bush at the corner of my drive way. While having fun with this I managed to pop a wheel joint cap loose. Broke the cir-clip and the cap slide out. I'll most likely just order …

I recently bought dap's sport conversion harness. It was all plug and play but didn't come with any directions. Are the sockets light specific with these harnesses? It looks like it just splits the signal of the oe harness into 2 sockets, but my outer lights which are the 9007s are working as the high beams instead of the inner 9004s. Which bulb should be on the inner and outer because they both fit. Has anyone installed this harness before? Also all 4 lights are on all the time whether in hi or lo beam.

after doing a head gasket job on my 1999 24v cummins i started my truck back up after getting everything back together, and i noticed there was a check engine light but didn’t think much of it. once i drove it i realized i had absolutely NO power and no throttle response after 1200 rpms. if i kept the pedal all the way down it would slowly get up to 2000rpms so that my auto trans would finally shift. after getting on a back road and giving her WOT i was able to get up to speed but it was a dog. i had no problems with my VP44 before hand. also, when we had the code reader plugged in while driving it said i was only giving 40% throttle while i had it WOT. i have zero boost …

Got a hot alternator like really hot, smelled it cooking. Looked at a few topic on here, started tracing wires. I previously rebuilt the whole harness-check all wires and re sheathed, tape, etc. My dumb a$$ forgot one wire the ground on the fuse box. Attached pic is what I missed. Is this wire straight to ground/frame? If it is I know which wire I need to use... Additionally could this mistake cause the hot alternator? Both alternator and batteries are old... alternator I assume to be original, batteries around 5-6 years. Batteries took trickle charge and started truck up fine. Thank you.

So, back in about 2014, my 12v was in a wreck. It wrecked the steering box beyond repair. So, I replaced it with a Borgeson upgraded steering box. At the time, I had not considered anything like the 99 HD steering upgrade or a steering box stabilizer. 6 years passed, I forgot, and now I have parts I cant really use. I purchased a steering box stabilizer and the 99 upgraded parts. I did not purchase a new pittman arm because I thought it wasn't required. The taper is wrong for the pittman are to drag link. I think I can make the stabilizer work. So, does anybody have a part number for a pittman arm and maybe a steering box stabilizer that would wor…

When I press the lock/unlock switch on either front door, I can hear loud motors spinning in both doors, but nothing happens (my doors don’t lock/unlock). My last 2nd gen I owned had the same problem, but I never bothered to fix it. I really want my doors to lock without having to manually lock them with my key. 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins sport.

Hey, I have a 2nd gen and the driver side e-brake Return spring has been worn from not being attached within the drum.Just got off the phone with Dodge and they say they do not make this part and the parts store says the part is dealer only.What is it actually called and what is the part number?Where can I get one?

I have replaced EVERY component on the front end of my truck. Tie rod ends, DOR track bar, shocks, springs, ball joints, steering box, and u joints. How is it remotely possible that I still have death wobble when going over certain over passes and bumps on the expressway?

Can’t find the torque spec for the rear caliper bracket. 2001 Cummins ram 2500 with ABS and rear disc. Appreciate any help ?? FSM 5-3 is where I was looking. It’s just not clear to me.

Would anyone happen to know the part number for the vent vacuum selector that is for the HVAC system? I cannot find one anywhere online. Mine has a leak in it and will not enable recirculation mode. Thank you.

Hey guys, I took my truck and my dirtbike out to the desert this weekend and since it was so damn hot we decided to take the trucks out for a little fun in the air conditioning. I went through some sand, did some hill climbs, nothing too crazy, used 4x4 on and off worked great. I did apparently dump a good amount of oil out of the vent tube going down a hill, though. On the drive home everything was fine didn't *notice* any noises but had the radio going and with the 5" pipe can't hear much anyways. Last night I'm driving home from my buddies and over the radio I can hear a growling and feel in the floorboard some vibrations especially over bumps. Turn the radio off…

Since warm weather is just around the corner I need to get my A/C fixed. I filled it with new coolant and it lasted good for a month, but it eventually leaked out. I used the leak test stuff that you put into the AC lines and you use the glasses and the light to check for leaks however did not find the leak. Where are the most common places to check for leaks or even replace? I thought about buying a new seal kit but wanted to get some opinions first. Thanks all.

Hi guys I’ve been having this problem on my 02 and it’s driving me nuts. The drivers side rear brakes squeal loudly when accelerating/coasting. As soon as any pressure is applied to the brake pedal it stops. I had the same problem before I replaced the pads last year with ceramics. Thought maybe they were metallic, but it made no difference. I just took the caliper off today to take a look and grease things up. Still squealing. It doesn’t make any noise when cold until you drive maybe 5 miles. Any help appreciate as this is making my otherwise mint truck sound like a pos and it’s very annoying. Thanks!

Last week switched to defrost now I can't get the A/C to come out the dash vents, air is all directed to the floor, When on A/C I checked the actuator that's behind the glove box, it has vacuum and draws the vent closed. The actuator toward the firewall also has vacuum and works, the lower actuator that has two vacuum lines has no vacuum. Any one know if the lower actuator should have vacuum and to which line?

With the rear axle chained it was easy. Immediate improvement. I'm going to build arms now that I've done a few track bars and jeep arms. First I can chuck the castor shims to get alittle more.

After draining, flushing and replacing water pump and t-stat I'm having some really weird temp issues. While sitting at a stoplight it reads 180, when I start driving it climbs to around 190 and then cools off again at the next light is it possible there is air trapped somewhere in the system. I followed the instructions in the article by moparman filling the block before installing the t-stat then filling the system via the radiator filler neck. How can I get it to burp the air out if that's the case.

My next upgrade for the truck before I leave for travelling with the RV. I got my set of Moose Horns for the truck.

Parked my at the job today. Get back in it about 15 minutes later and the flasher is clicking just like the turn signal or hazard lights were on but they're not. Sitting in her now and it is still clicking with nothing activated. I guess power getting to the flasher some how but to the lights unless the turn signal or hazard button are engaged. Any one had this happen?

I'm following the ac wiring diagram on this website: Key in the on position. With the ac selector switch in the "face only" position and the blend door on all the way blue I have power at the LTGRN/WT wire at the PCM. This indicates to the PCM I want AC and there is not high pressure condition. When I tested the brown wire beside the LTGRN/WT there was no power coming from the low pressure switch, meaning again that there is no reason the compressor shouldnt start. I tested the DRKBL/ORG wire that is leaving the PCM. When I'm first putting the probe on the wire it flashes green but then goes away when I make solid contact on the w…

My front shocks are worn out and I plan on replacing them with fox 2.0s and was thinking of coupling them with either thuren 2"or 3" coils. Not looking for any crazy lift, just a little more travel. My front end sits 3" lower than the rear and the thuren coils spec to 2.75" vs 3.75". Anyone have experience with those coils with a ranch hand brush guard on the front? Figuring it will take it down an inch Much appreciated