2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

So when I bought my 01 3 years ago it came with the ABS and Brake light on and although we figured out the brake light being the entire pedal assembly was bad, we never could figure out why the abs light was on and why the module would buzz when plugged in. Fast forward last may doing axle shafts, find out the passenger side hub sensor had been cut somehow, so we replaced that and tried to plug it back on with a buzz still occuring whether the truck is on or off. I gave up on it as I had more pressing things to fix on it. Well quarantine has got me itching to fix something so I figured I'd dive in, and plugged it in and busted out our Bosch scan tool from oriellys, and al…

I’ve read Mike’s comments on the AC compressor cycling, and tend to agree that it shouldn’t cycle if performing correctly. However, I’ve noticed mine will cycle with the heat on (defrost). Is this a normal function?

Taking all my loose parts to the paint shop Friday. Have both driver side doors, 2 fenders, bed and tailgate and maybe the tonneau cover to get sprayed. The shop we use at work is slow right now so might as well take advantage of it and replace all the rusty and dented parts. Just have to get everything removed so the parts are bare and pressure wash them.

Hey guys so I had my truck in for an alignment this morning and I just replace passenger upper/lower ball joints and all of my tie rod ends on the weekend. The alignment tech informed me he wouldn’t be able to do my truck due to a negative camber on both front wheels. Everything else in front end is tight and doesn’t need replaced. I’m trying to figure out what the root of this issue could be. Truck has a 2.5” level kit and I have 18x9 -18 rims with 295/70r18 tires. The tech stated it could be the aftermarket rims but also stated I could have a slightly bent axle tube. About 3 weeks ago I ditched my truck at about 40km/h and the impact was passenger side. After replacing …

I found this random black wire that was just sitting on top of a bolt near the abs unit. Not sure what it is, looks like maybe a ground wire but not sure. Anyone know what it may be for? It seems to split from the harness just before the abs. See pics, hopefully you can see where it comes from.

@BrokeAssPainter asked this question: I just changed out my right wheel hub assy, everything I'm finding online says tighten to 20ft/lb then back off quarter turn and then hand tighten......... Honestly that just doesn't sound like it's going to hold my front tire on seeing as how it's a 2wd with independent front suspension. Anyone care to chime in? I'd really appreciate someone saving me from a catastrophic failure lmao From the 2001 Dodge Ram FSM page 59, section 2-8 FRONT - 2WD TORQUE SPECIFICATION Hub Bearing HD 2500/3500: 280 Ft. Lbs.

I have a 1998 5.9l 24vlave extended cab shortened 4x4 and I need some help.... So my ABS light and my brake light both have came on my - my truck will not start I just put a new starter in it it has the edge juice with attitude programmer when I turn the key to start a on the wait to start light and everything comes on like it should then the ABS light and brake lights stay on and then if I leave it on my fuel light turns on and my feel gauge goes to empty I don't know what to check can yall help me out pleasr

Replaced my heater core today. Reminded me of divorce court. Nothing seems to be going your way, obstacles popping up repeatedly, then suddenly it's over and a weight is lifted. Really hope it doesn't leak. Used a swivel tube core. Can't run it till tomorrow. Had to order new heater hoses. My carpet was damp and I couldn't for the life of me find the leak letting rainwater in. Then it dawned on me, I needed to replace this last year but with multiple family members dieing unexpectedly and my wife battling cancer, (successfully), it slipped through the cracks. 2019 was a long year. Hope I don't ever have to do it again, but it sure feels good to do it yourself. Thanks to m…

So with all this stay at home stuff, or shelter in place depending on where you live and what terminology they use, I was bored the past couple days. Yesterday we had to make a trip out so I bought the couple things I needed to do a project I've been considering. I'll let the pictures show the project The first is before pic, then after.

I have a 99 dodge 2500 with the 5.9 Cummins I recently had the return line on the stock fuel pump rust off so I replaced it with a precision fuel pump part number 30060 from oriellys And ever since I installed that pump I have no power to my fuel pump. I looked on the oriellys website and it said the pump is for trucks converted to an intank pump and I'm still running a raptor 100gph transfer pump and I'm wondering if that would cause it to not have to power to my fuel pump? The truck will still start and idle off of my transfer pump but I only see 5 pounds on initial start up then drops to 1 pounds of fuel pressure after idling for about 10 seconds.

So I'm finally getting around to the pump that's been leaking a while now, (much more time on my hands) but I'm faced with a bunch of options to choose from. I dont want buy a cheap remanufactured just to keep replacing the pump, but are the "new" ones any more reliable? Napa brand Part #381058n 240 dollars for pump and resivor, no idea what the real brand is Comes without resivor, 35 dollars cheaper Advanced Auto Part # 96-8002 300 dollars for Cardone brand, cant find a lot of reviews on this either, manager said they started carrying it in the fall. Anyone use this? A bit more expensive. Borgeson (the problem…

Have any of you guys here built custom control arms for A 2wd? I’m wanting to potentially even try to build a coil over Setup. Any pictures or advice would be greatly appreciated.

i see that my truck already has the connectors in the doors for power mirrors and the control switch on the drivers door. do I need to do anything other than get a mirror control switch and a set of power mirrors to do this? Would it be the same for heated also? Pulled back the ac/heat controller and the wires are plugged into a empty spot on the controller. Is there a need to put in a fuse in one of the empty spots on the fuse block inside the cab or is it all powered already. thanks

So I've had my abs light on for over a year now. I replaced the front wheel sensors, the rear speed sensor and the wheel bearings. I gave up and took it to the dealer and they determined that the module was bad, so I sent it into sia electronics to have it repaired. Installed the rebuilt module in the truck and I still have the light. I'm too deep to give up now but what other variable could be causing this?

Has anyone ever had one of these apart? I may look mine later today, the PO had the spare laying in the bed, the end of the winch cable with the tire cradle is zip tied to the hitch frame. I assume it was seized up or something but the more I use the truck the more the spare in the bed gets in the way. I've looked at new winches and they're a bit pricey for what they are so just wondered if anyone has dissected one.

The heater has been getting a bit slow changing from heat to ac the past month or so. So today, 55 and raining out it decides it is staying in the AC mode. I figure maybe the stepper is going dont know that it might internal to the box. I put the heater treater part in it some years back so I dont think thats the problem. Any good way check that motor to see if its bad without pulling it?

Anybody know a good brand or setup for some valve stem extensions, several on the market

Is it possible to program a second remote for a 1998 Dodge 3500? I have a working remote Ana ordered a second one all numbers are the same on both,

I think I have this correct but something didn't feel right in the left rear wheel. From the backing plate under the truck and through the adjustment opening I would turn the star wheel upwards correct? Because the adjuster lever on the inside of the drum would push it down to make an adjustment. Is this correct? I googled images but some of the ones I saw didn't say what year the truck was so I thought I would ask.

Is anyone using a Banks exhaust brake and if so what do you think of it? I'm looking for a little help in down hill braking but not something that will overwhelm the transmission. The Banks is less expensive than a PAC or BD E-brake but need to splice in there down pipe. The truck and trailer are under 15,000 pounds.