Mopar1973Man

Could you get a picture of this part? I'm not sure what it would be?

From what I've heard about DTT Assassin fuel pumps they have issues with the regulators either sticking, springs wrong strength, debris in the regulator, etc. 2 Cycle Oil will not change fuel pressure if used properly at 128:1 ratio. Trust me its not the filter causing this pressure drop it solely the lift pump.

The old stock lift pump most likely...

You gotta check this out... http://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/articles/4658-video-deer-meets-porsche-at-full-speed#sthash.2tAodI70.mbqh25aq.dpbs http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=57f_1406269959

You might want to check out... http://nascar.about.com/od/tracks/tp/fastesttracks.htm

Same here I've bought 2 start contact kits from LarryB and still rolling.

Hex is a classic example of over shooting the axle ratings. So what happens is the quality of the towing experience goes down quickly. Trust me Hex has a huge RV! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6890-butt-pucker/

Truck alone... Then... Truck and RV... Weight out all your axles separate if possible. Like the scales down in Council, Idaho is a 3 pad scale. Then the scale in Grangeville is a single pad. So in Council I can pull up and get truck front and rear and trailer in one shot. Then in Grangeville I got to do each axle separate... Truck front axle, truck total, truck rear axle, trailer axle... What this will do is let you know if your balance in weights maybe need to relocate weight in the trailer, lighten, etc. Like myself I scale at least once a year and funny to watch my RV start at 7,300 pound when I bought it to now at 8,020 pounds. Gross weight rating is 8,500 pounds on the trailer. With the rear axle weight just subtract the truck alone from the truck & RV and you'll see your pin weight.

I would suggest long bed for the stability personally. As for 3/4 or 1 ton trucks your still in the weight class for 3/4 being most 3/4 ton trucks are good for 13,xxx worth of trailer. I will admit 1 ton gives more stability but the maintenance cost goes up buying 6 tires over 4 tires. As for weight you need to find out the truck weight without the RV. (Front axle, Total gross weight, rear axle). Then hitch up and scale the truck and trailer both (truck front axle, gross truck weight and rear axle) then your RV axle weight. Then you can figure out pin weight on the truck. Typically 5th wheels are 25% pin weight so worse case would be 3,000 pound in the bed of the on the pin. This is where you need to know if the pin weight combined with the truck is going to exceed the axle weight limit of the rear axle of the truck. Like on my truck its rated for it but I'm at 3,200 on the rear axle now so adding the extra pin weight I would be at 6,200 which is over the axle limit. (6084 pounds)

Good thing its not where I'm working I have enough fun changing fuel filters on Duramax trucks.

Thanks for clearing that up... I didn't know they did dis-continue those pumps.

With MnTom's weather conditions I would say a synthetic might be a better choice. Myself I run petroleum all year round and see no real loss in performance or winter impacts with temps down to -20*F or so. There is many factors to that. I've seen winters when my truck tires had froze to the ground. I've seen where my brakes have froze to the rotors. So in my mind it not valid...

Exactly. I ran 7 years and 135k miles on my first BHAF without a outwears. Mostly back country dirt roads and a lot of dust.

I would avoid short beds for 5th wheel towing unless you got a slider hitch for it. Cab to RV clearance are very tight and won't take much to make contact with some RV's. Few questions is what kind of 5th wheel do you have? A picture of the hitch might help. What is the current scaled weight of the RV? And the gross RV weight? What the length of the RV?

Also check to see if there is a error codes for 5V issues. Check battery ground. Only the main cables supplies ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44. All the other body grounds are for lights and other sub-systems.

From what I've hear is yes. But you need a Dodge Dealer that knows what he's doing to make a proper flash occur. Most dealers techs can't even figure it out, sad to say...

Link please...

Well there is a another solution, spray the underside of your truck with old waste engine oil from your oil changes. This should give you some protection from oxidation.

That's how one of our wildland fire start was high wind gust caught a long span of wire swinging and arced. Everyone in Whitebird, ID seen the brief flash off and on of the power. (Clue.) Like this morning low on the weather display on my desk shows 62*F as a low from last night and already heading up to 64*F at 8am. It 54% humidity here I've got the sprinkler running all night for swap cooler effect since we really don't have A/C here at the house. Not the last few week the temp at the house here has been close to 100*F (96-98*F). The elevation at home is 2,800 ft. At Lindy's shop its right at 1,900 feet. Woot! I get today off and head for McCall, ID to get groceries for the house. Need lunch supplies for work. So I know I'll get to see 5,200 ft elevation temperatures.

The owner works for the local EMS services so I'm assuming most of this was for light, radio, etc. No. I didn't go digging to figure it all out I just needed to re-crimp the master power lead for the truck to start. Nothing was fused every thing was hooked directly to the battery. Kind of scary.

Power is supplied for the Blue wire from Red/White wire 20A fuse. It most likely has some sort of switch action inside the PCM to cut the power when the key is off.

Yea. It only takes a bit a of dust and a bit of water to make mud. Then add a bit of road salt for oxidizer. Won't take long to eat the bolts away being the muds hold moisture and the road salt will continue to eat as long as the moisture is there. I had this very same problem YEARS ago on a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and a U-bolt broke on me. I had to have custom made u-bolts to fix that old truck. After seeing that and seeing the axle design never changed I keep rinsing out the bottom plate. No problems.

Yea AirDog's are not what they once were. As for FASS I tend to still favor the twin filtered FASS over the single.

http://www.scangauge.com/support/upgrade/

Don't have that issue even with all the Idaho road salt used. When I wash my truck I take the extra time to rinse out under the body and flush out little places like the axle base where the u-bolts nut up.