Mopar1973Man

Nope. All firewood.

Backwards. 1. Push the injector in. 2. Now push in your crossover tube. 3. Pre-torque the crossover tube. 4. Torque the injector cap. (89 in/lbs) 5. Finish tightening the cross over tubes. This allows the crossover tubes to push the injector where it needs to to center up for proper seal of the crossover tube.

Mine I've got a NAPA reman alternator on my truck had it tested at the store before I even paid for it. It tested out 0.01 to 0.02 AC volts. I was happy and paid the bill and left. All you got to do is require to have them bench test it for diode performance. If you want you could have it test with a digital meter too as its being spun. As for the Mean Green you have to consider re-wiring the charge lead and also getting a 220-230 amp fuse to change out the OE fuse. For daily driver its just way too much rebuilding to just get a low AC noise alternator.

Failed... Normal alternator is 0.01 to 0.02 AC volts 0.10 and greater is absolute failure.

Here is a few pictures of it after doing the head gasket.

Yea I caught scorpion this morning crawl around in the corner of the shop. Really neat to shine a black light on them they show up really well in the dark. Yea we got some weird critters running run down here.

No. This old school 7.3L glow plugs. As for the grid heater I'm sure the owner isn't going to pay big bucks. As for the connectors these are just good ol' push pins. Like 1 terminal temperature sensors.

Because as cetane goes up the ignition time of the fuel advances (takes less time to convert from liquid to vapor to ignition). But also the BTU content goes down and the ignition pressure spikes out with a hard explosion (the ping) instead nice long push (thud). If you want to clean you injectors there is no cleaner in a can or bottle that will clean anything in the fuel tank. Our 35 gallon fuel tanks is 4,480 ounces of fuel. Mixing in 4-16 ounces of anything in a sea of 4,480 ounces is like pissing in a pond. As for taking a injector out and soaking it in straight injector cleaner for 24 hours it will still be dirty 24 hours later. The only way you can clean then is to physically disassemble each one and clean all the parts by hand.

Give you an idea the thermocouple in my truck is about 8-9 years old. I do pull it out time to time to inspect it.

I'm a big fan of mechanical gauges. They don't need power or senders. They work even if the truck is push down a hill. But electric sender gauge always fail without warning and anyways looking for a mechanical gauge to verify a electric gauge.

Hey Gang... Lindy and myself are looking for a source for glow plug connectors for the older Ford 7.3L diesel. We've got 2 trucks now that have either broken glow plug connectors or badly damaged. Ford doesn't sell them unless you buy a full under hood wiring loom. NAPA doesn't list anything for it. Now one of the part counter guys is thinking maybe a coolant sensor plug might work. But I was going ask here to see if anyone else knows of a solution?

There is a rare thing that occurs where the AC noise level wipe out the ECM and creates what known as "Limited pedal". This is where the ECM seem to be governed out to like a set speed no matter what you do you can throttle more nor build any kind of boost. I would check AC noise level for the sake of knowing.

It's normal habit around here once a month to check all batteries. Automotive, RV, and the House batteries. You add distilled water to each cell like said above to the bottom of the collar ring inside. Then you need to always charge the battery after adding water. Those batteries above at my house batteries that power the house weigh in at about 125 pounds a piece and a total of 1,000 pounds. My last batch lasted just about 12-13 years. For all of them is about $4,500 for 8 of batteries. So yes you learn really fast on how to properly maintain batteries.

2. Is the fuel filter. Look close you can see the hand pump at the top of filter mount.

I've seen mine back in the day bone stock hit 1,400*F towing a flatbed trailer and a GMC/Chevy pickup. Yes EGT's can't and will get out of hand even stock.

Hey Gang... I was talking to the state highway guys this morning when they pulled in. I've been informed that this year in Idaho they are suppose to increase the salt and mag-chloride usage this winter. So he was giving us a heads up to keep our trucks wash and rinse off frequently. I figure I'd pass this along to the Idaho members.

Using any injector cleaners or cetane boosters too? I know you using 2 cycle oil but a lot of people love to play mad scientist and mix things with the 2 cycle oil.

Russ you are not making me feel good. My deck is sealed with Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits.

1. Fuel pressure 2. Pyrometer 3. Boost Pressure 4. Transmission Temperature The four gauges in order of importance. Even a stock stock can have some really wild EGT's while towing I suggest you think about get a gauge set soon.

Here is Dodge FSM specs. The only thing you gain by lower pop pressure is timing and spray quality degrades as pressure is reduced. Also sooner the boost pressure can flood the fuel system on a deceleration. Just like tractor pullers they get to the end of the track and gotta tap the throttle a few time to keep if from dying out. This is to push the air bubbles back out of the injectors. Higher the pressure the later in timing but better the quality of the spray and atomization equals better efficiency.

I had mine done at a shop for free. What happen I went to my favorite tire shop had a set of front wheel bearing installed. When I went out to get the truck the driver side leaking gear lube. So the manager of the store which I know very well took care of the issue instantly and setup a appointment with a shop in Ontario, OR to replace both front axle seals. Some day I'll have to contend with the 1996 Dodge Ram leaking.

This last spring I got MoparMom to toss out all the old paint she had stored in the basement and in the garage. I found one paint can getting ready to fail in the bottom (rusting). This was all housing paint (interior / exterior) so it wouldn't of been as bad but still a mess.

Diesel4life is right to a respect being if we where all playing with bone stock trucks (235/460 at flywheel or 245/505 at the flywheel). Then you would have a way different playing field, where my truck would spend most of its time in 3rd gear pulling grades. I will admit it would be nice to have a 6 speed in the mountain pulling really heavy 5th wheel like Hex0rz because of the shear weight and mass of that beast. I will admit also the 3rd to 4th jump on a 5 speed give very little room for crossing form gear to gear. Where yes on a 6 speed it would be easier with 3rd and 4th overlapped. But the fact remain flat running of either the 5 or 6 speed transmission isn't going to change a huge amount being the final ratios are so close on there last two gears. But if I was to be a CajFlynn hotshotter and towing day in and out I would look at a 6 speed hard core. But recreational towing like RV's or toy trailer I'd be still opting for the 5 speed. I always love being stab with a stick...

Try Goose Creek grade from New Meadows to McCall (7% grade). Last trip up that I still had zero problems. 4th gear all the way up towing the RV. Very rarely have I touched 3rd gear. Whitebird grade again 7% grade pull in 4th gear no sweat. Lewiston ID grade another 7% grade pull it again in 4th gear. https://goo.gl/maps/C9oQa Here is going down Goose Creek. Tow this up Goose creek in 4th also easy as pie! Close to 7,000# worth of trailer if not more...