Mopar1973Man

I typically would only disconnect one cable, clean and re-hook up. That way I don't wipe out the customers radio presets and clock on the stereo. But if you take care of the terminal correctly you'll never have to remove the cable expect to replace the batteries. Like myself I never had to clean my terminals yet to this day and they never corrode. All I do is light coat with fresh engine oil and even look back.

Either you have a vacuum motor under the battery or you don't. The APPS sensor on a fly by wire only has one cable the throttle from the pedal that's it.

Yeah... Mine is a manual and all fly-by-wire so there is no vacuum motor. All my steering wheel controls seem to be working just fine. Accelerate, coast, cancel, on/off and set. I was playing with the controls while driving to try and diagnose but all of the controls work. Once again no vacuum motor and not a automatic transmission... I'm a manual with fly-by-wire cruise control.

I just remembered I had a weird thing happen and can't explain nor has it occured again. While I was towing my traveel trailer this last trip I had my cruise set for 55 MPH cruising towards Emmett, ID. It was really strange it was like someone lifting and stomping the throttle in a really jerky up down random cycle. Now remember I'm a fly by wire system no vacuum motor cruise. As for error codes there is none I check while driving (Scan Gauge II). As for the APPS sensor it shows 0 while cruise is active there is no signal (Scan Gauge II). I tested my alternator noise once I got to Emmett, ID and it was a normal 0.023 to 0.027 AC volts. After being shut down for the night I've never experienced it again.

I tend to wonder about some part and why they fail. Is the failure from something the owner is doing or not doing? (Not pointing fingers but looking at why's). Like why is it that NAPA sells fuel shut solenoid for these prices but LarryB sells a cheaper one but its a better solenoid? Just because its OEM or higher price doesn't exactly state the quality of the part. Just food for thought...

Typical shop protocol is to order the parts regardless if you need them or not because you can always return them. You can't fix anything if you don't have the parts. I was lucky and only needed screws. But now seeing my contacts it looks like maybe another year and it will be time for another set of LarryB's contact's again too.

Well again I lost my starter fuse at the worst time. Grrr! Ok don't panic we know the drill. I created a temp fuse from a aluminum twist tie. Got it start hitched up the RV and kept it running. On my way home I made a call to Lindy and let him know I'm going to pick up a starter. So on my way into McCall I picked up a starter and a fuse. So I kept it running and towed the RV home and unhitched. Still kept it running then bolted for Lindy's shop. So I grabbed the bay and proceeded to pull it out till I was getting burnt on the last bolt. Time to let it cool off. Long story short I got the starter out and the solenoid cover lost its 3 screw and the plunger was hanging out. So I replaced the 3 screws and reinstalled my starter and saved me the money on the starter wish will now be returned to NAPA.

I've got Red Fir in the middle of my pile this is reserve wood for the just in case. As for going through it doesn't bother me as long as I'm not on the roof stuff a chimney brush in the middle of the winter. Red Fir is a higher BTU wood but way too hot for the hot most of the time. So you end up choking the air down till its smoldering and condensing tar in the chimney. This why a lighter wood is desired for the early fall of the year is lower in BTU's it will tolerate being choked down without taring the stack up. Like a diesel if you chimney is smoking your not burning efficiently need to turn the air up just a bit more till it stops smoking. Now here you are again with high BTU firewood and 80-85*F inside and miserable. This is fine in the middle of winter when the minus numbers come load it up with the high BTU wood (red fir) and turn it up.

Neighbor down the road from me hooked me up with a gent in New Meadows, ID that sells salvaged firewood from logging operations. The load above is all spruce and it sold for $75 a cord and there is roughly 2 cords on the trailer. Nice. I'm planning on doing it again!

Now cover the terminal and light film of engine oil and never worry about cleaning the terminals again. In 12 years of ownership of my truck I've never clean the terminals of the battery cables because they have never corroded. I would still test the AC noise levels to double check to be safe...

I would gladly do the work on the A/C system. But I'm sure your no where near me though... If there is less than 25 PSI lo side the system will not start. Now the lower the lo side pressure the colder it gets so if you jumped the low pressure switch to start it it will most likely freeze up. R134a should be about 35-40 PSI on the lo side and about 225-275 PSI on the hi side. Kind of hard to have a system pumping without pressure on either hi or lo side.

I typically run about 30k miles and change the coolant and not look back.

Hmmm... I'm right on track here for Idaho.

If the spare tire is installed correctly it shouldn't move at all. So how would the cable flex to break? (Food for thought?)

I use none of the above. Just plain ol' engine oil. Never had a bad battery connection and no corrosion issues ever! Ask yourself a question? What is the only matterials that sulphuric acid can be contained in without eating the container? Answer is plastic and glass. Plastic is made from what? Oil... Grease works but if you ever lean over a battery with your arm or your shirt not you covered in grease. That red stuff stains you clothing quick. Most all rig I work on I will just power wash the battery off and the lightly oil the battery terminals. After a day of driving the oil melts away and just a thin residue is left behind. Hold down bolts and battery tray hardware don't rot either. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid...

It comes just barely under the back of the cab. At least on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 short box. Most airbag system basically are trigger by a gold plated ball bearing stuck to a magnet so if the impact force is strong enough to separate the steel ball from the magnet it deploys the airbags. There is many other systems used out there I've seen but the most common is the gold plated steel ball stuck to a magnet. Now once again depending on the trigger method it might be really easy to trigger and it might be hard.

I heard these stories too but I tend to pull my spare down to inspect it now and then for dry rot, cracks, damage, etc. I tend to lube up the cable and winch with dry silicone spray.

Wow! You got a serious rust problem...

Good point...

Sealed container yes. Open/vented container I won't give it too much after about 2 years. Around here gasoline is rather pitiful now with all the ethanol added. Like with all the fire trucks the pump engine that run on gas tend to get rather foul after about 2 years. We typically dump the tanks or attempt to consume it during trainings.

I've got a wonderful tire shop I've done business with for many many years. Originally it was a Big O Tire shop and now it changed names to Tire Factory. Same owner and same guys in the shop. They love it when I bring the Diesel in they always asking about anything new added to the truck, hows it running, etc. Always A+ service. Even when mistakes happen they make it right and repair the problem pronto. Good shops do exist just got to look hard for them.

I store fuel on the property in 55 gallon drums. As long as the fuel is stored in a air tight container the fuel will last nearly forever. Like my barrel of gasoline was over 7 years old when I started using it. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. As for storing fuel in the tanks or bed tanks most of then are vented so with diesel typically it will go a long ways but gasoline won't last very long at all in a vented tank.

I really can't see anything wrong with the truck at that angle. The tank should be rearward from the point of contact so I don't think anything is damaged in the tank. I'd be looking at the transfer case and transmission myself because of the point of contact. I would for the sake of knowing I would check the error codes something might of triggered it to shut down like low oil pressure? The error code might be there to give clues to you.

I would bet on being low on fuel. I've been in steep country myself that shouldn't prevent starting. I would check fuel pressure...

All I can say is check EBay and Craigslist... Quadzilla is no longer produced.