Mopar1973Man

Exactly... I don't like having internet ammo suppliers reporting that I'm buying ammo in bulk or what I'm buying. Lack of privacy.

Welcome to the family... We'll try and help the most we can with your project.

Watch your EGT's keep them down below 1,200*F which is best.

1. Before doing all that do the diagnostic to verify it's not a wire or some other issue. If the APPS is truly bad then get a Timbo's APPS. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low 2. Double check your cranking pressure. I know you Edge CS is worthless for cranking pressure testing and will require a mechanical gauge to test it. You should see 7-12 PSI bouncing while cranking. More than likely there is nothing for a short span then pops up which is a sign of loss prime. 3. Shift into Neutral for a short span to allow the trans pump to fill the torque converter and see if that help with the bogging out. 4. Once again electric gauges aren't worth much. Hook up a mechanical gauge and verify the gauge is accurate. I've seen way too many people install the fuel pressure sensor at the VP44 without protection of a needle valve or a high quality snubber and eat the senders. Another problem is people get paranoid of the draw straw sucking bottom so they cut way too much off and end up sucking air all the time. 1/16 to 1/8 inch max for clearance on the tip of the tube on a dry tank. It a must to cut the tube STRAIGHT not at a angle! As the fuel tank is filled the bottom will flex another 1/8 to 1/4 of inch depending on level and fuel temp. Hence why the original fuel pickup was spring loaded and allowed the tube remain at the bottom of the tank.

Just about all sizes of ammo are available in McCall, ID now. I might pick up a few more boxes of 9mm for a the pistol next time I head that way.

Cummins did allow up to 5% by volume (approximately 1.75 gallons) of WEO or fresh engine oil to be added for 12V engines. Even Centinel adds way less than that for injecting back into the fuel. But also take notice that it only available for larger engines not for the smaller 4/6BT or ISB engines.

That's awesome Wild & Free. I'm glad to see you got your health in check and living a better life now!

I'm running TowMax tires on the TT no issues after 3 years so far. But I will admit a lot of people favor the Maxxis tires.

Really pouring the silicone to the joints...

Actually that's a sign of weak batteries or bad cables. In other words the voltage is dropping off quickly and causing the low volt warning. Normally with strong batteries and good cables this will never happen. So time to do a voltage drop test and battery load test.

I might have to look into that.

I've used PenzOil, Quaker State, Yama-Lube, Stihl Oil, Super Tech, etc. Not really. As long as its TCW3 you should be fine (Ashless).

Here is a screen shot of one of the videos of the jet engine powered jet boat. This boat would top out at about 140 MPH on the river. I'll process videos later when I get home and post a YouTube.

Whew! Good night of sleep and getting ready for another day of working safety boat. I hooked up with our boat Captain "Tony Yost" and nice to hook up with good friends from last years Jet Boat races. I'll have my video camera today and hopefully catch somme action shots where we are at. River is high and running rough. Took a ride yesterday and is mean enough for a normal jet boat to toss it around like a toy in the rapids.

Yeah... Busy day watching the race boats, getting paperwork and things setup. I'll post more later...

CR injectors are expensive but still and all I agree with John on this one. New is the best option and replace all in one shot.

You still should have a error code for battery temp sensor.

I tend to rinse down my engine about once a week or so keeping the road dust and dirt from collecting as goopy grease on the block from leaks. But I've only replace one alternator since new. Still have all my OE idler bearing and fan bearing.

Bunch of alcoholics... Oh well. I'm going to grab my light weight stuff Whiskey and toss it in the RV for midnight sipping. I could go up to a friends parents place and get a few hits of the White Lightning.

Might have the alternator re-tested for AC noise output. Double check for P0336 error codes for the crank sensor if the tach is not reading or incorrect then the transmission will shift funny and alternator charging will be affected.

MPG fooler and/or warm air intakes help too. This tend to retard the timing. IAT temps of 100-140*F will bring the timing down and make them quieter. Tighter valve lash 0.008 on intake and 0.018 on exhaust. Lower cetane fuels. (~40 cetane) 2 Cycle Oil (128:1 ratio)

Funny... After I changed my oil and cleaned the under side of the truck I've not see any oil leaks as of yet. Kind of one of those moments!?

Correction... Move the sender FARTHER from the VP44. Closer you get the stronger the water hammer pulse are and the less time it takes to destroy a fuel pressure sender. What people don't under stand is there is roughly like 600 pulses a second coming from the VP44. In a mechanical gauge the pulse are very audible as a buzzing noise that changes with RPM's but with a electric sender the same buzzing noise can be heard over the clatter of the Cummins. But it still there eating away at the electric senders.

Good question for you AH64ID? What is the battery manufactures float voltage and bulk voltage requirements? What is the battery manufactures suggested charge rate? All batteries have a designed float and bulking voltages for optimal charging to prevent gases of the battery. Typically slow charging is better for any battery because of the the gassing issues that might occur at high charging rates. Ultimately the best charger would have a battery temp sensor and adjust charging voltage accordingly. But I know most RV converters don't have such a option.

Also check your crankcase vent too. I've seen some really poor mods done to the crankcase vent that causes pressure to build up and blow the tappet cover gasket out. One of my small reasons I never suggest extending the crankcase vent with more rubber hose.