Mopar1973Man

Every winter here I see 90-95% humidity with tons of salt laid on the highway. It's the difference of washing the truck. I typically rinse my truck weekly to knock the mud off and rinse the salt off everything. If I'm lazy I'll place a sprinkler out under the truck and turn on the hose. This works really good on getting most of it off without getting wet in the cold of the winter.

When I did the calculation on this back in the winter time the difference is like 2-3 PSI difference from 0*F to 100*F so the change in 02 isn't that much. No different that going from sea level to about 5,000 feet. I'll see about find my air density calculator again.

Wow! My truck looks factory fresh to that. I've got barely even some surface rust specs starting om my truck with all the winters and salt covered highways and mud.

Like all winter 5x3 the injectors barely hazed but now 5x2 its a light haze and 5x3 lays down a good strong black cloud. Just really odd...

Yea. As of today I had to drop my sub-level again. Getting to smokey as summer time started coming on and noticing more and more smoke as I would be towing and/or launching with a heavy foot. I'm wondering if others have notices anything like this with warmer weather? No ill-effect to MPG's at all but the smoke level is slightly higher now than was during the winter time. I'm also wondering is the injectors changing for like a break in process and flowing more?

Hey at least 12V you can change like spark plugs on a in-line 6 cylinder. 24V is bit more messy and trouble.

Hua? It's replaceable. The whole tube has to be replaced. I'm also 2002 Dodge truck and the tube from RockAuto or Autozone is cheap like $30 bucks. Just release both ends and replace.

Matter of fact I got off the phone late last night and have to head to Grangeville, ID and drive it home today. Then the Fire Chief and crew have to start out fitting this truck for fire service. Lots to do. But I do love that Big 400 Cummins lots of power and pulls mountain roads like nothing. Crap... You know... We kind of killed the thread and topic. But good ol' BS'ing of diesel trucks though...

I think you exceeded the transmission ability to hold the torque. I know you oversized tires don't help either...

LOL... Well I don't own it but I get to drive it. It's even a Cummins...

Orifice tube are super easy to replace. I know I know with your limited function you not capable dang I really do wish sometimes I was closer to help you out.

Mine always starts out a bit warm sided but after few miles and giving it time on low setting it cools down good (40-45*F) from the center vents and then I crank up the fan speed and push the cold into the cab. With high humidity you'll want to run more MAX A/C than normal.

No worse than Pollock, ID http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pollock not the... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polack Then fun ones... Grangeville, Id is Strangeville Horseshoe Bend, Id is Horse $h!t Curve Lapwai, Id is Crap way Few other local slang names for towns...

Yeah because you gotta drive so far to fine warm weather so you can go camping or boating.

It's a age thing really common to see from older fuses. They tend to crack and open up from loads and then cool and make contact again like my cases it did that exactly. Because it ran for about few minutes before fuse opened up again and tripped the check gage light.

Ummm... I'm glad that's not in my neighborhood.

Hey MnTom is there a 6 or 7 hole injector for the 12V??? It would do YabbaDoo better I would think with a nice wide spray pattern.

Don't feel bad... I'm going to be heading out and seeing Hex0rz soon. I'm just going to the truck to Hex0rz place to save on the fuel budget.

Aaaahhh... Aligned? 4WD can only have the toe set. Don't have any tire wear problems so... I must be really really close.

I would pull the regulator and inspect it for damage or sticking of the springs.

I know this site doesn't help the availability of part trucks or even used trucks for sale. I would just leave your name alone...

Also it could be the power steering fluid is breaking down and/or the fluid is getting loaded with debris and plugging up small orifices in the power steering gear box. I would attempt doing a fluid flush and see if it clears up.

Funny how the automatic transmissions have to do so much beefing up for input shafts where manuals really don't require it and do quite well without upgraded input shafts.

Just past 230k... Just another 8k to get to the moon. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunar_distance_%28astronomy%29

Hey Gang... while I was out on my trip to Hot Springs campground with MoparMom the first night we stayed in Emmett, ID. The next morning got up and pick up our stuff in the RV and to go and leave. Jumped in the seat and got half a crank and dead. Popped the hood. Everything appears fine. MoparMom getting worried we are stuck in Emmett, ID. Like I told her don't even sweat it I've diagnosed this a million times. So... 1. Swap starter solenoid relay with trailer relay (Nothing) 2. Swap the Starter solenoid fuse with Engine Control fuse (Start) So I hopped back in the truck and start out and (Ding Ding Ding) and volts fell to zero, and few other gauges died. Hmmm... The fuse I swapped with was most likely the PCM and fuse must be cracked being the cluster worked for a few minutes and died. So since I'm still in Emmett, ID I went over to NAPA walked in with my fuse and bought a new 30A fuse and plugged it in. No biggy. I figure I would share this tidbit with you all so a simple failure doesn't just make you jump for a tow truck but to do some diagnostics first and figure out if you really need that tow truck.