Mopar1973Man

After today's run in the Cummins to Ontario with temps as low as +6°F and IAT's down to +21°F. No I didn't put my winter fronts on. Boy did I pay for it. Coolant temps hovered right between 188-193*F and IAT's continued to follow the outside temperatures right at about +15°F to +30°F for the day. The only saving grace was the MPG fooler. So I'm upgrading ASAP to a 200*F thermostat and getting my winter front back on this truck.

Banjos just have to much restrictions even measured for ID sizes but just the fact of the huge twist in the flow pattern isn't good either.

Another good video in my bookmarks...

Heck I just go done with a full day of shopping in Ontario, OR with temperatures ranging from barely even +6°F and high of about +25°F out. About 3 good cold starts on the truck with no block heater. Out here in Idaho the current bushes tend to die off ever fall of the year so there is no current bushes to plug your truck into but the Might Cummins can with stand it just fine. I just kick the high idle on and let it warm up to at least 100°F and leave.

Now if you had only the Edge Comp and the RV275 it would be very controlled but now stacking the Smarty now you out stepped the even HX35W turbo. I've got +50 HP Injectors and Edge Comp and its a wicked combo as is.

Q: what is your fuel pressure like with a starter bump? Q: Does the fuel flow freely from the end at the VP44 if the banjo / fitting is removed? Just because you hear the lift pump doesn't mean its pumping.

Yes. I can leave mine active and row gears never have the brake engage unless I delay 2 seconds then it will. So I could for example know I'm coming to a stop gear down and leave my foot of the throttle and have it engage right after the downshift. If I want instant on. I got to be coasting for long periods but leave the throttle alone but control the brake with my thumb switch on the stick and the brake is instant because the delay has already been meet because throttle IVS (Idle Validation Switch) has idle switch set over 2 seconds.

I would also replace the relay. Maybe just maybe the reed in the relay is weak and current flow is created resistance in the relay which is driving up the current rate and popping the fuse. Remember as voltage at the load goes down the amperage has to go up to match its working load watts. 140w = 14 volts x 10.0 amps 140w = 12 volts x 11.6 amps 140w = 10 volts x 14.0 amps As you can see just a relay with a bit more resistance can drive the working amperage up in a real hurry. Should see what it does to a engine starter with a weak starter contact or bad battery cables the amperage draw its nearly explosive. This is another reason I typically ask people to do a voltage drop test on the wiring under working loads to see if the circuit is dropping more than 0.2 volts (which is a fail). http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Then your about right for delay for the Jacobs brake that is ECM controlled. Too bad its not based off of throttle control so you could still row gears and then just release your throttle foot for braking.

I don't think there is any up or down side. Being the HY35W turbo is without a divider and the HX35W turbo has a divider.

As long as you keep those 265's you shouldn't have much problems with your track bar or tie rod ends. Like myself I've still got OEM tie rod ends and change 1 set of ball joints and a track bar.

I'm pretty sure even ISX would suggest setting your timing to about 14* BTDC for common/daily driver. Excessive timing just moves your optimal power band up in RPM.

Be aware MPG is affect by ECT numbers too cold and MPG do slump off. I suggest the 190*F be used for all applications and not the 180*F. I'm going to be considering the 200*F thermostat myself for the diesel.

Some day in the near future I'll have to do the tappet cover (cam cover) seal.

Another place... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm

All I can say is ask him (ISX). I remembered the thread when her got his PanaPacific Gauge and shot a picture of the temp probe zip tied to the BHAF.

Yea he covered that too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/5781-bhaf/?view=findpost&p=64754

I don't sweat that either since ISX already done the measurement for BHAF intake temperature and typically at highway speed the BHAF temperature will be roughly +2*F to +5*F over outside which equates out to +1*F difference at the IAT sensor. Roughly calculating... 100*F day, 70% efficiency of the Turbo, 100 or 105*F intake temp. 30 PSI of boost at 13.0 PSIa 105* Intake -> 430*F out of turbo -> 133*F out of Intercooler. 100* Intake -> 422*F out of turbo -> 132*F out of intercooler. Still within operational standard. Even going hard. 120*F (+20*F over outside) -> 454*F(turbo) -> 135*F (intercooler) Middle of winter. Roughly calculating... 0*F day, 70% efficiency of the Turbo, 0*F intake temp. 30 PSI of boost at 13.0 PSIa 0* Intake -> 265*F out of turbo -> 27*F out of intercooler. Way to cold for optimal burning of fuel for a daily driver. These calculation are really close to actual seen at least on my ScanGauge II. Here is other video examples...

Lot of people claim the steering box brace helps a bunch but typically they are running oversized tire which increase the leverage stress on the steering components and the gear box. Same goes for the track bar which typically fails from oversized tires as well from the added stress from the tires. So once everything wears out a little bit and gets loose the the Death Wobble starts. I would also check the shocks while I was there too.

Hang in there I'm trying to review all the security setting of the site. Forum by forum and group by group. Instant should send them out ASAP when the thread is updated. Daily Digest will produce a series of email at a set time. When you got several pages of long list like these you tend to take your time very careful and check each setting.

Hang in there I'm trying to review all the security setting of the site. Forum by forum and group by group. Instant should send them out ASAP when the thread is updated. Daily Digest will produce a series of email at a set time. When you got several pages of long list like these you tend to take your time very careful and check each setting.

Here you go. http://www.dieselautopower.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=high+idle

Any error codes? Do you have access to live data tool like a ScanGauge II? I would check the TPS signal for a drop out or use a DVM against the APPS sensor checking for a voltage drop or sudden change.

Smart thing to do...

I've seen in the dead of winter with minus temperatures outside just idling I can pull the coolant temperature down to about 185-188*F idling then it seems to stop. But that is rare and rather extreme case. Typically I don't leave the truck idling long periods sitting still. Traffic lights? What's that??? Idaho County only has 1 traffic light in the entire county. Valley county has 2 traffic lights...