Mopar1973Man

Yes sir... Take a peek at Weatherspark...

Maybe it would better yet to cut "Diesel" out the door with a IR Camera and watch the entertainment. "Diesel" has been clocked at about 30-35 MPH at a flat out run. I think this fat bear would be no challenge to him. Like my fire chief said let him run "Diesel" would tree him most likely. Meat for the freezer and rug for the living room.

Check this out.

Common. I see this from people buying new calipers and then leaving the dirty old brake fluid in the master cylinder and then the debris settles again into the bottom of the caliper. The only way to fix is to disassemble the calipers, clean and re-assemble.I've heard of the brake hose thing but never seen one yet.Now. I've just got a phone call from my Fire Chief with his 6.7L Cummins finally did something weird. Long story short the Chief's truck decided to start pumping up the brakes not with the hydro-booster but with the ABS brake pump. Really weird but after un-hooking the brakes returned to normal again.

Got a fresh video coming... This of a normal work day for me working on diesel in the local area. Just another good view of the area I live in.

Since Sept. 20th. It been a max of 55-60*F during the day but at night 42-45*F we already got snow in the high country. (>6k feet)

Suggestion. Move it back to the rear diff cover you'll never break the light while hitching up then.

My AirDog 150 was back in the day when the original owner was still producing. But now AirDog quality has slid downhill. Way to many problems with air leaks, fitting problems, mounting issues, etc. Now if you where to build your own mounting bracket from steel like old school and ditch all the hoses and fitting and got a roll of parker hose and Push-Loc JIC fitting most of the problems would be solved. I'm not in pressed with Raptors or AD 165 adjustable regulator. Wat too much to fail. Old school AD 100/150's are very stable.

Heck... My cheapy propane Weber BBQ $25 is just chrome plated steel and it lasted 3 years so far. Getting rather ugly now.

LEDs are cool lighting but expensive. :spend:I truly wonder how long the wheel well light are going to last or work with all the debris flung by the tires and the mud and dirt that will stick to the lights?

Like our instructor said most of the time the high voltage stuff is in the center of the vehicle and could be any bright colored wire (Yellow, Orange, etc.) It now a standard for orange to be used but early years there wasn't so be aware. Also a note a "standard set" of bolt cutters will not be able to even open bigger enough to cut high voltage lines.

Yes. Basically take the smart key and get it away from the vehicle after its shut off. You could cut battery power to it (FD dept policy?) But if the battery bank catches fire the say to let it burn. As for extrication on a hybrid vehicle same peel and peek is required for air bags and work as usual just being careful and cautious.

Hold on a sec. Blower motor ground is in the cab at the driver side kick panel as well as the headlight switch ground. This would also cover the ground for instrument panel as well.

I think that is key to the trans flushing is getting the pan off and changing the filter and adjusting the bands.

LOL. Kind of like the river running across the road from me which is the Little Salmon River we call it the Little Salmon Sewer being its nothing but cow pi$$ and cow crap from in New Meadows washing its way down the canyon. As for my creek water its clean enough I use it for drinking water in the RV on many times. I'm not worried. Either that or the well water which comes out of the ground too. Both very clean. As for my cooling system reason I'm not having issues is my change intervals. since most all fluid are called to be replace every 30k miles I change coolant at this time as well, flush the block, change the thermostat, etc. I'm just about due for another change anyways about 2k away.

Creek water and green or yellow anti-freeze. (Less the sand and mud). 11 years and 222k miles no issues.

Auto door locks is a central timer thing...

Ok. Something to share with you then. I had a gent that had the very same problem with the P0341 and P1690 we went through the diagnostics as I listed above. Not was wrong. He replaced the cam sensor, the VP44, even did a custom cam sensor thinking maybe the cam was moving. (thrust plate). Needless to say it was a weak connection either at the ECM or Cam Sensor because after the dealer replaced both plugs (ECM and Cam sensor) the problem was gone. So since you have a intermittent problem like light switch it going to be a bad connection or loose wire or maybe a broken wire somewhere.

More to add... Bosch VP44 injection pump requirements http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements Bosch VP44 injection pump fuel pressure specifications http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

No grid heater will make it tough down at about 20-25*F on 24V engine.So I would look on the oil filter side of the block for a heater. Typically NAPA would sell the cord for about $30 bucks. If the heater is missing (pipe plug in the hole) then just order a block heater for it. If you want simple get a freeze plug style and install it.The only other reason a 4BT would have a tough time starting in cool weather is the rings are wore out. I would then do a compression test to verify the cylinder health.

Remember 5% of 35 Gallons is 1.75 gallons or 20:1 ratio. When I'm mixing 2 cycle oil is at 128:1 ratio or 1 ounce per gallon or 0.02% ...Huge difference. I don't even suggest mixing over 100:1 ratio because of the cetane and cSt problem.

Here read up on the two codes. P0341 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/176-p0341-camshaft-position-sensor-signal-missing P1690 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor If you need a wiring map they are here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

I've never had a reason for synthetic oils for the truck being more people have crossed the million mile mark on petroleum oils. To this day I never found anyone that cross million milestone with synthetics. I use 15w-40 Mobil petroleum oils all winter long with absolutely zero issues. (Minus weather too)

Brushes going south or the commutator wearing out? Something is increasing the amperage draw across the contacts.