Mopar1973Man

One small problem is that this little mod does keep it from throwing a check engine light but it stops the fueling table at where the boost ended. Basically its a voltage regulator set for about 18-19 PSI of boost. So when your boost exceeds this now you boost heavy and fuel poor. So boost keeps climbing but fuel stopped at that rate. This why a good wire tapped box works better because once you exceed the ECM limits the box re-writes the fuel signal on the wire tap to control fuel and timing both. How this is done is by adding pulse before actual to advance timing or lengthen the pulse to add more fuel duration.

Like in Riggins, ID the Chevron station has 2 Diesel pumps on the outside row towards the street. I really sucks being those 2 are quick snagged by little gasoline power vehicles. Then the owners go inside the store use the restroom, look at goodies and snack food, etc. Then you wait and wait... Grrr... I love it in Grangeville, ID they have the standard islands with gas and diesel but when those are full just swing around the other side and grab a big truck pump and load up.

No joke. I try to avoid using acronyms too much. Thank you for the simple answer I never thought of that one.

Normal as long as the IAT temperature is below 60-65*F it will cycle the grid heaters.

I don't think the whole catch can is the right answer. Something doesn't ring right. All the big powered trucks I've been around normal don't have this issue at all.

About 80% of the time I'm on dirt roads too. The only paved roads out here is US95 once you leave the highway most everything is dirt. Even the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 is good for 6,000 miles...

Still don't see how any of that has to do with the APPS? The codes are for hi and lo volts codes and heat shouldn't change voltage of the wiring. Still why wouldn't be worse in the summer with baking heat and being trapped in traffic? I'm going to look up the wiring diagrams for this and the error codes for this as well and get back... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/367-p2122-low-voltage-at-the-app-sensor http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/397-p2123-high-voltage-at-the-app-sensor http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/398-p2127-low-voltage-at-the-throttle-validation-switch

Here you go. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/smarty-s-03-rental.htm

Well in the current configuration (unhooked wastegate) its going to perform poorly as it reaches close to 20 PSI its starts to defuel and fall on its face. Not worth the effort. Like said above do a full Edge Comp and be done. Fully adjustable in the cab and will produce a full 32-35 PSI of boost with a Edge Products boost elbow. (typically supplied with the Comp).

You have to set it up all over again and start marking your threads you want notices for. Sorry to say the two softwares are not compatible for notifications. I think you might want to extend your oil changes. In the owners manual its 7,500 miles for oil change. I'm changing at 10,000 miles. Might save you some money to change at specified intervals...

No kidding Wow! http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Boost-Gauges-2-1-16-inch/1:12|37:1

Be careful there. Once you start adding fuel it doesn't take much to over spin the turbo. I would highly suggest getting a boost elbow so you can set the boost pressure. Rather cheap at about $10-20 dollars typically.

No it shouldn't... But I suggest against any washable media filters.

Please do.... I'd love to read it...

Stock boost should be roughly 18-19 PSI typically. Might check the wastegate for sticking...

Could you post a web page link for us?

I Agree as well BHAF is better... Also optimal IAT for MPG numbers is about 100-140*F so cold air is actually counter productive for a daily driver.

I'd talked it over with Ed Grafton about the high idle stumbling out. We think it could be grid heater related, fuel injector(s), or possibly a VP44 issue. But these are just educated guess without actual testing.

There is only 2 thing to make a diesel engine fire. Compression and fuel. So if the compression is weak or the fuel spray is poor then the poor performance will be noted at cold operation. It actually a 56K ohm resistor is what I use. But anything between 56k ohm and 100k ohm will trigger it. But the biggest thing I keep think about is the serve timing rattle.

What is this term I see using more and more "Tuning: MY03 pistons and BBi Stage 1's in a MY05 truck." MY is that a term for a model or actually "My Truck"?

Any flash work done by the dealer make sure to unhook the Edge Comp (or any enhancements) before the DRBIII is used.

Ummm... No that's not normal. Any enhancement boxes, programmers or both used? Excessive timing is that hard knock as the engine switched over to 3 cylinder mode and the cold intake the timing advanced hard. I also noticed you had a un-even idling speed even on normal idle I would like to ask what injectors you have and have they been pop tested?

Write will be on hook up and diagnostics. But no design for do-it-yourself... As for connections there is none that will affect the Edge Comp It hooks to the IAT sensor and the ECT sensor which neither sensor the Edge Comp even uses. No. The dealer flash and a smarty flash are exactly the same its just dealer charges for their time where a Smarty is free. All the MPG part does is fool the manifold temperature upwards to 143*F this aids in bringing the timing back to a usable level most have reported at least 1-2 MPG gain with it in cold weather Winter fronts and BHAF help even more so.

As far as what I remember both DAP and Vulcan telling me they get there pumps from Industrial Injection. I just did a VP44 pump and forgot to look at the box it came in.