Mopar1973Man

Gives you an idea to what the product is made out of. Actually in 48 hours diesel will not evaporate very much because the xylene in the fuel is very small amount typically 0.1% at best. So doing sample of fuel additives like this give you idea of the lubricant in the products. Because if it got a true lubricant it will be left behind after the all the cetane boosters evaporate off (xylene, mineral spirits, naptha, napthalene, etc.). Because oils normally don't evaporate.

Huh??? Anything under 100:1 ratio is too much or plain wasteful. 12V and 24V trucks 128:1 is normal dose CR Engines up to 2007 is 200:1 ratio is very safe. 2008 and up are to suggested unless all DPF, Cat, and EGR is removed. Clog the turbo? Umm you don't pour it in the turbo you pour in the fuel tank. The oil is completely consumed before entering the exhaust side of the turbo so turbo clogging is a Internet myth.

Simple home lab results to find out. Take and pour 1 ounce of any product into a small open container. Then take 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil and pour it in a separate open container. Leave out for 48 hours. Now measure both products again and taking note of resulting substance. But I'll let you do the test for yourself.

:rolleyes:Well here is the load I cut today. Worst yet I came home empty handed.

Now I gotta hitch up the Cummins to that trailer and haul out another load of firewood today stay tuned!

What's impressive is this little car with what 3" wide tires swimming through mud and everything does just fine. But now today trucks even NEEDS 12" wide 37" tall tires to just drive to the store on pavement. I think its awesome a vehicle built so tough it can be rolled over on its roof and righted again driven off again.

Great cetane booster. http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/40-137-msds.pdf

Still not a issue. If you get one tank of winterized fuel it will not gel up at all. Even if it does your not driving it so your still safe and till will be fine by spring. Diesel fuel isn't gasoline where all the fuel actually evaporates. Diesel fuel will not evaporate and being its in a confined tank with a cap I doubt seriously there will be any issues.

Not required either. All of our fire trucks here in the valley sit in sheds for months on end without any diesel fuel additives. All fire stations are minimally heated to 50-55*F all winter. Some truck rarely even see a fuel station like maybe once every 1-2 year because the fuel tank is 50 gallons or larger. Like my two fire trucks (Structure Engine and Wildland Engine) get driven to fire meeting once a month alternating trucks. I might put fuel in the structure engine once a year.

Simple... * Injector cleaners - Not required. If you want to clean injectors remove and hand clean there is no solution in a bottle. Think about it PS is 400:1 ratio. So you have 4,480 ounces of fuel, and adding 11.2 ounces to 35 gallons of fuel. This is only a 0.2% solution! Even with 100% injector cleaner it still will not clean the carbon off. The only thing I heard of from ISX is Carb Dip. Still you need to wipe all parts off to remove the carbon. * Cetane - Increasing cetane will decrease BTU's of the fuel. So you want to reduce the cetane to gain BTU's. Dark green - summer fuel -=- Light green - Winter fuel * Lubricity - Today's fuel here in the US does NOT meet Bosch's standards at all. Bosch requires <450 HFRR for fuel lubricity score. Today's fuel is about ~520 HFRR on average. As you'll see below is really damaging to a Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. From top left - Pump shaft top right - pump vane hub. From bottom left - roller shoes bottom right - Advancement piston From top left - Pump shaft top right - pump vane hub. From bottom left - roller shoes bottom right - roller shoes * Summary - This is why most people use strictly 2 cycle oil. Because it does reduce cetane (increase BTU's), decreases HFRR score to score that meets of exceeds Bosch's requirements.

So I got the 96 Dodge out and hitched up the BigTex Wagon and wheeled over to the wood pile with the ATV and splitter. In 3 hours managed to fill the BigTex completely full of split wood. Sad part is its all wet and will have to dry under the trees out back. But I've still got enough wood to fill the BigTex 4-5 more times.

I would drain the transmission and pull a PTO cover and weld on a bung for the sensor on the PTO plate. As for the EGT's you need that more than the Trans Temp.

Do not mix products. Mixing like you show PS and 2 cycle oil negates both products. PS = Cetane booster (lowe BTU's) 2 Cycle = Cetane reducer (higher BTU's) PS = High HFRR score (lower in lubricity) 2 cycle = Lower HFRR score (high in lubricity) So you been wasting money on two products washing out both and going no where. Any additive with a score less than 450 HFRR s best. Remember the 2 cycle oil score is poor because its 200:1 ratio 128:1 is roughly 380 to 420 HFRR.

Tend to agree with the guys here. Fix your FASS pump don't band-aid the problem. The FASS pump even the smallest of the series should be good enough to hold any pressure you wish. So more than likely the pressure regulator is sticky.

I feel its best to use a impact tool or wrench and dead blow hammer to free exhaust hardware. Typically after all the heat cycles the metal tends to weaken on harden bolts so just putting a ratchet on or wrench on it and pull tends to break them off. Don't ask how many bolts I broke off in the turbo. :banghead:

My local Chevron fuel station sells double flare brake line in a assorted lengths. So I would cut and double flare the existing ends then add a small piece of brake line with brass brake fittings in-between. Yes you'll have to drain the fuel tank and drop it to do the repair correctly. Other than that your a safety hazard to you and others.

FASS is the common place runner now. Bit more money but solid.

Oh Yeah... Like at 1-3am I'm on top of my game and have natural night vision and steady as a rock. Are you kidding. At 1-3am I'm going miss the broad side of the barn too.

I tend to dis-agree with any wiring mods to the truck. Like he even states doing a APPS sensors wiring mods. Why??? Remember these truck ran 10-12 years without this mod...

Great I'll have front row seats to the action.

Got a problem. I can't shoot in the yard. North of me there is houses, south of me there is houses, east of me is the highway (illegal to shoot across roads), west of me is the mountain. So even if I could get out of the house with him here I would have to hope he ran back up the mountain in the dark and shoot towards the mountain at about 1-3am in the morning. Just not happening.

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In a nut shell the more weight you shave off of rotational part the more HP/TQ you can put to the ground and the better your MPG's will be.

Might be true but still calculating all the fuel for the truck, wood splitter, chainsaw, and the 2 cycle oil for both the truck and the saws. I'm still way cheaper for heat than electric or propane.