Mopar1973Man

Please don't do this! This is a no-no... Never mix products! I realize the poster doesn't do it any longer but just to be clear don't mix... Mixing products can negate benefits or create new problems because of different chemical mixing together possible incompatible issues. Like with 2 cycle oil most all other products are backwards to 2 cycle oil so mixing typically negates the benefit of both the 2 cycle and the other product so you basically wasted money and got nothing done.

I hope you haven't done damage to the engine with lack of oil flow. But something is wrong because its consuming way too much oil even for a break in. What color of smoke? My first thing I would do is... [*]Pull all injectors out and pop test them all. This will verify the smoke isn't a fuel issue. [*]While the injectors are out I would run a compression test to verify the health of each cylinder. We don't know if its a bad injector just spraying to much and hosing out the rings or the other cylinders where worse off than you knew. We need some more test data to go forward. This would be covered by doing a compression test. Because if the compression is low or something is bent or broken then the compression will be low on the bad cylinder(s). This would be covered by doing the injector pop testing. Because if the injector(s) are failing the pop test will show it.

Biodiesel is typically a dirty fuel when home produced. Commercial fuel production and biodiesel is fairly clean but still has it winter problems of gelling and separating.

Nothing wrong with that...

I do!!! Much safer at that speed out here. Just in one month we've had 5 vehicle accidents involving excessive speed driving the canyon. All 5 accident involved a totaled vehicle and serious injuries. I've got to admit since I started driving slower at 55-60 MPH I've avoided many many accident because I was capable of slowing down even more and getting out of the way. Not to mention my fuel mileage is at least in the 20's range where most people pray to make high teens. So I can't complain. Also the difference between 55 and 65 MPH is so fractional that its not worth driving faster to get to your destination 3-4 minutes earlier and 5 MPG lower. Doesn't make any sense to me. From Home to McCall, ID - 35 miles Formula (distance / speed) = Hours x 60 = Minutes 55 MPH = 0.63 Hours = 37.8 Minutes 65 MPH = 0.53 Hours = 31.8 Minutes Really doesn't make any sense to drive reckless to gain what 6 minutes getting somewhere...

Most people are swapping out to FASS or mechanical belt driven pumps. Me, personally would consider the FASS before the mechanical pumps. This kind of the 1st generation of mechanical pumps and might have a revision some time soon and improve the design and minor flaws. Kind of like when I bought my AirDog I bought during the 2nd generation phase of the pump and got a rock solid pump. Something to chew on.

Power Steering fluid should be changed every 30K miles or every 36 months. Dark brown is a bad sign that the fluid was totally burnt and the lubricity was gone this most likely part of your failure not to mention the oversize tires leveraging against it. Remember P/S system has no filters so once debris starts floating through the system it gets worse exponentially till something fails. Still got tight steering here with all factory equpiment. The only thing changed was ball joints, wheel bearings, and track bar. I have no idea what its like to have sloppy loose steering and have to modify so much to get back to tight steering...

Even both of my trailers the old homemade and the new BigTex TV70 both pull me down to about 16 MPG empty from a normal 21-22 MPG without a trailer. I would tie to the stake pockets with ratchet straps as well as to the tailgate tie rings.

Basically selling B5 bio-diesel at that pump. Nothing different than the ethanol they sell in the gasoline. It may contain up xx% ethanol.

Kind of like my new Big Tex trailer. I turn the gain all the way up to MAX and worked the brakes off the mountain to seat the new brake shoes to the drums. Because at first brakes did nothing now you can fill light drag from the back of the truck with gain set at 8-9 Volts. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy 2 (P2) controller.

You'll be surprised of what some people here might have laying around in there shop or parked out back. You might ask around someone might have or know of a friend that does...Welcome to the family.

You'll be fine. As for the rear axle weight of the truck mine is 2,860 pounds curb weight right now. I've got a rear GAWR of 6,084 pounds which allows roughly 3,224 pounds I could carry over the rear axle. I haul my 700 pound ATV in the back of Mom's 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 without a thought about it. I haul heavier loads in mine as a seasonal thing... I know your toy is less weight than all this... 2002 Dodge 2500 Door sticker http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1281643390 1996 Dodge 1500 door sticker

Cool. Glad to see that. I've been wondering when the time comes about stealing a motor another and stuffing it in. Mine been running for many years now without a issue. (AirDog 150)

Ok. We've talked on the phone. Now so other are clear its a AirDog FRRP. So he's direct connected to the ECM as well as using stock plumbing. As for the ECm it would be direct control of the fuel pump and it would be smart to add the relay to take the stress off the ECM. If the rotor is binding up it might be pulling extra amps on the ECM. You might check for the P0230 error code.

Something is missing now that it requires to function this most likely the cause now you'll have to back track a bit and test with devices to see if you can over come this issue.

I've gotten a few other test at close to 128:1 ratios and the finally number floats around 380-400 HFRR roughly. But I never got a exact 128:1 ratio test yet. Why I said...

:umno:It's maroon.

The article is here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Fly by wire (Manual Trans)PCM -> ECM -> VP44 Automatic TransmissionPCM -> Vacuum servo -> mechanical linkage

Do remember that 474 HFRR score is based on 200:1 ratio where the 128:1 ratio is roughly 380 HFRR which isn't to bad. Since I have a lot of 2 cycle engines (Stihl 046 Magnum, Stihl 461, Weed wacker, etc.) around I might well use the 2 cycle oil. It's always here why not?

No. It's not a dump trailer and No. The sides are fixed and solid. Price prevented me from even going that far. But I will admit the GVWR of this trailer is double easy. Then the dry weight of the trailer is lower than my previous. The tongue is so light empty I can pick it up and place it on the ball. Where the old trailer was so heavy not even Kelly and I as a team could pick up the tongue even empty.

I'll make Dorkweed's wood pile look tiny...

MoparMom didn't unload it. Kelly and myself did. Uh. As for the old trailer it got traded in so that would have to run down to Caldwell and pick it up for what ever price its being sold for.

I think your truck can be made to haul that RV still. But you'll have to invest in changing out the tires and coming back down to a smaller tire. 235's or 265's. 235's will be better for towing better stability. Then add some air bags to the rear axle. Might in invest in some good shocks all the way around. I know your heavy on the rear axle but you not really outrageous.As for finding the gem. I would be hard pressed to find a truck with less than 250K around me. I'm not much for CL or Ebay dealers. I've seen to many people getting scammed with vehicle sales. I would hit the local dealers where your at and see what options you got and maybe ask if they would put there eyes out looking for you.

Well it done...Went from this...To this... BigTex 70TV yea you bit the bullet and push forward.Even on Saturday I made my first run with it getting a load of firewood. Really nice trailer that hauls the weight very, very nicely. Better than the only single axle that was never really designed for that amount of weight. (Kelly peering over the wood pile)Now as for loading its so nice. I was cutting up on the bank so buddy Kelly backed the trailer up near the bank jacked knifed and dropped the tailgate and we just rolled all the wood in the trailer. No more lifting 35-38" to just get it into the truck bed or the trailer bed. Now there was someone that made the comment about "Just wait till every find out about your trailer they'll want to barrow it" Well that's not happening. I've already got friends asking to haul firewood for them as well. Even MoparMom says "Let them speak in Cash". So after pondering the calculator I figured out a nice price per mile for hauling material for people be it firewood or construction materials. Maybe make a bit of money locally doing bit of local hotshotting... Never know...:whistle:As for Raymond at American Trailers Sales Of Caldwell I would like to say "Thank You" for selling me a wonderful product at the right price.