Mopar1973Man

Not to make bad feeling this is why I step up through the power little at a time to resolve issues as I'm stepping up. Every time I see someone building for a high HP goal it typically falls apart and parts don't work out. I think thats why we all post up what we have and the results.

Yeah I know the feeling I just dropped $400 on a new windshield in the Grand Caravan. Also got my water leak fix being the body was rusted through at the top of the windshield. Two for one fix deal...Ugh. Being gasoline is dollar plus cheaper than diesel so the mini van is getting more attention for the moment.

Same here when my HX35/40 Hybrid gave up and started rubbing, I had less than 15 PSI at WOT and ZERO PSI at 75 MPH. EGT's were actually lower than normal which was weird cruisung at 65 MPH was about 450*F with that failing turbo. Most likely because of lack of boost the fuel was not being given. I pull the Hybrid turbo off and threw the stock HX35W back on and boost is back and EGT's are back to normal. As for his case with 6 x 0.013 are pretty big injectors. I know the injectors have been sent back multiple times. Pretty sure its not injectors. Pretty sure the Quadzilla is working correctly. Even on Lvl 0 the EGT's are going to be high so this removes Quadzilla from the list of problems. I know the valve lash has been done several times. The only thing I can think of is turbo...

I helped another person redesign the VP44 with the knowledge I have. After a lot of modifications, dual fuel feed into the body, higher internal regulator, drilled out some passages and few other mods. Stock SO pump typically tops at about 600 HP and his modified VP44 passed the 1,000 HP mark easy on the dyno. I don't remember part numbers or where he go the bits and pieces but it managed to do it. Pin would have to be magnetic too. So lighter alloys might not pull as good in the magnetic flux to open the pin.

I'm starting to think the turbo is too big. Being the fuel curve is totally controlled by boost and if boost is not building fast then the fuel map will not rise up to add more fuel. With all that fuel 2.38 times over stock yeah 70% to 80% should be fine too. Even stock (Lvl 0) is going to run hot being the turbo still isn't spooling in a timely manner. Being your already up to 15 degrees and stepping up from there it should have enough timing just there is no boost to back it up. Kind of like a boost leak EGT's would rise pretty sharply for those injectors, just the turbo is late to the party. Twins possibly? Smaller turbo maybe?

Steering wheel controls are sent to the Central Timer Module (High Line) and the converted to digital signal over the CCD bus back to the factory stereo. I've seen several converter boxes possible of getting those controls to work with other stereos but I've never heard if those actual work or not. I've you do a bit of searching here you might find that thread about stereo controls in the steering wheel for aftermarket stereos. Remember this will not work with standard central timer. Hence why the factory stereo comes with a CCD network plug.

Also pre bled systems I've seen them with enough air that it doesn't break the tabs loose. Then you end up pulling it back out to bleed the system again. Being there is typically a high spot after the master.

Typically you drain the system and pull the compressor and drain the drain out the plug in the side of the case. Now re-load with 5 to 6 ozs of PAG 100 oil. Remount and pull a vacuum on the system. Then I typically use three 12oz R134a cans. Being its leaked out I would do a o-ring seal kit and replace all o-rings. Make sure to oil the o-ring before assembly. O-ring kits are typically 20 bucks or so.

Sorry... The truth is that typically a TRUE rebuilt VP44 that is Bosch Certified REQUIRES a NEW PSG on every unit. Then the VP44 is placed on a Bosch 815 test stand for 3 HOURS. During the 3 hours it does all the tests and then after all tests have pasted then the PSG is flashed with the software. This why I will not buy any VP44 that is budget like that because there is ZERO way to verify the health of the PSG or the VP44 because it was never on the test stand. This prompted us to produce a page for certified Bosch Rebuilders. Just think its 3 hours for testing so most people don't re-certify a pump because using the test stand for a used pump takes to long to be tested so typically they are sold for cheap price. I'm also building a vendor page so others can list vendors they dealt with and then review them as well. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/

I can give a few values for temp. The IAT and ECT are the same resistor values at the same temp. As for oil pressure I know that with the CCD Network tool I've got from @Chris O.it does show correct pressure even though its a single wire sensor like the older Mopar's I use to work on. Need to create a out of zone error for all the sensors including APPS. Need to write the code so that if APPS falls out of range to set THROTTLE = ZERO. This way there is no runaways or out of control throttle. Then this takes you down writing the error code list and what ranges are normal and what is considered an error. Does it trip a CEL or just quietly store the code. Yeah I'd say there is more to go.

Absolutely true. Best to start your diagnostics with good tools and not use the key trick or cheap code readers. Live data is very handy for diagnostics even if you had a Quadzilla tuner that would open the door a bit even for diagnostic info displayed from the ECM. Like TPS values, and engine load values, etc. Yup best to do your diagnostics first like read the error codes and then look them up on the website and do the diagnostic steps for resolving the issue. Some times it can be just wiring issues but that why the diagnostics to to make sure what is damaged and getting the right part. OBDII ERROR CODE LIST

HX35W is a 54/60/12 at least what my stock turbo measured... Just consider I'm running HX35W turbo (54/60/12) right now with my +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010). But I've got the lowest EGT's and highest MPG (28.04 MPG) in this group. This is due to the tune I'm running and not the turbo at all being my cruising boost is typically very low like 2-3 PSI at most. Remember I'm running 245's tires which give me 3.69:1 final ratio making it much easier to cruise along with little power needed. Hence the low EGT's. Also pay attention to the elevation which I'm running flat ground no rise or fall. Then If I do step up to 65 MPH (2,000 RPM) it typically rides right at 550*F EGT's. My cruising engine load is roughly 17% at 55 MPH(1,800 RPM).

PSG on the VP44 is shot. That's called limited pedal and typically the VP44 is at fault. It has to do with the communication between the VP44 and the ECM. You can verify the TPS signal with the key on and engine off and watch the TPS value from 0% to 100% this means the ECM is saying the right thing but I'm pretty sure the VP44 PSG is bad. I've had this once before new VP44 and installed it and did the same thing. After swapping back out with a another VP44 the problem was gone. Might check error codes and a P1689 might be present too. Oh yeah Dead pedal is only when it just idles (800 RPM) and does nothing. Limited pedal might very to different RPM levels and stop. Typically limited pedal snaps directly to that limit regardless of how light you press the pedal. No Bus is going to be the CCD Network. You can measure the bus voltage from the OBDII port on both the CCD + and CCD - vs ground (body). This should be 2.49V and 2.51V after the modules come to rest and quit talking. The cluster is what sets the bias voltage.

Tidbit.. on MAP sensor mapping, find a new MAP sensor with a wider range. It would make for a wider range of boost fuel control also a accurate boost value say to 50 to 80 PSI.

I'm assuming this is the new ECM and VP44 controller you made? Wow. I wanna see the your hook up point how your wired in.

Just a sample. Heading to town running 55 MPH. Sure like the low EGTs. Oh watch the elevation I'm not really climbing or falling. Flat ground sample. Quadzilla adrenaline 150 HP DAP injectors popped at 320 bar. Stock HX35W turbo 245/75 R16 tires on 3.55 gears with a final of 3.69:1

Yeah some cameras don't get the orientation of the photo right. Just edit it on your phone and save again. Now re-upload.

Don't confuse the sensor ground for frame ground. They are not the same. Tan/Black is +5V signal. If this is shorted to ground (body) will produce you issue. So I'd you unplug both the ECT sensor and ECM then measure ohm between black/tan to block should show a short (0 ohm) but being intermittent it may not. Still in all the black/tan goes directly to the ECM. Black/light blue is sensor ground back to the ECM this is shared by other sensors (APPS sensor, WIF sensor, cam sensor, etc.)

Again if you would do the diagnostic for the error code the testing would have you unplug both the ECT and ECM and now check from pin to GND. This will show up on the 5V lead not the black tan.

I've got Vylcan performance boots and holding really good. I think @dieselautopower sell them in their store.

Look for the ring terminal lead out of the Quadzilla. Tape it up so it not touching ground.

Another clue... if the ground side is lost it will peg at 240F. (High volt code) If the +5V is shorted to ground the temp will fall to -40F. (Low volt code). I'm going to assume you have a short to ground between +5V line.

That would be like me parking a truck out in my yard and wondering why the headlights came on by themselves. This happen on Thor not to long ago. I tried my key fob from in the house but it's too far to trigger. Yeah I get it. So the only thing is to park the truck somewhere with little RF and see if it triggers again. Being there is little to no RF out here really strange but could happen. Not to hijack but just info might help.

Pic rotation. Some times the cellphone does update the rotation. You'll have to edit the photo on your phone and rotate it into correct position then save it. Then you can re-upload the pic.

Ok... March 19th, 2022 Currently 57*F Feels like 59*F Dew Point 38*F Max 59*F Min 38*F 29.52 inhg (Falling) Humidity 49% and rising 3 MPH Avg, 11 MPH gust (All Weather data is from my own personal weather tower) Due to have some rain tonight possibly a thunderstorm. But nothing really happening current just breezy and cool.