Mopar1973Man

Parked in a Handicapped space?Hmmm... I would personally do something like this to a standard cab and use it like a sleeper. Now you got bad -arse setup where the truck isn't super long and weak in the middle. Then its also ready for the long haul.

Eaxmple...

I use to be that way... But after 3 years now of really seeing the site grow and see the common folk here like Russ, ISX, Rogan, Diesel4life, War Eagle, stodge73, dripley, etc. I know these guys without a doubt would do exactly what they say they going to do. I got guys that send me tools to barrow to do jobs, or send parts, etc. I've never been let down on any of it. I've got pretty good faith in the older family pool here. Now as for someone that just joined in the last few month and has zero posts I would be a bit leary..

I was replying to Texas CTD idea of continuing up the the scale of injectors.

This is a absolute nono should never install a pressure gauge or a pressure sensors at the VP44. Water hammer pulse are the strongest at the VP44 since its the device that creates the water hamme pulses. All gauge hook up should be done back by the stock filter can if you want a gauge to last.

Agreed...

Take it out for a test drive. Get it hot. Now check the upper and lower hose temperatures. The lower hose should be cool to the touch if the radiator is doing its job. If not the hose will be warm or hot to the touch as well.Old california test I use to do is take a garden hose at full flow into the upper hose neck and the core tube should be capable of flowing all the flow of a garden hose without overflowing out the top or backing up out the upper neck.

Ok... I gave Deborah another call she has been busy. She hasn't forgotten us so be patient and she'll be here soon to explain her offer.

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My bad... :doh:I've got a old ScanGauge II my software doesn't even report the MAP correctly. But from what Pepsi1971Ocean told me there is a a boost gauge founction that does report true boost numbers in PSI not PSIa. But the MAP would be PSIa and ~14.x PSIa is about right for 0 PSI.

Up here the price of 2 cycle oil is expensive. For what I pay for a quart of Stihl oil I can buy a full gallon of WalMart Supertech. Typically what I do is buy a gallon for the truck and a gallon for the chainsaws and weed wackers.

It not a TV show but simply reality of life. Well like this morning I'm still dragging tail not moving fast at all. I know my chour list is high already and I'm not wanting to jump too fast. Heck I don't even have TV. I've been without TV now for nearly 9 years.

Yes. It's correct. This layout will CUT the power to the lift pump during cranking. This prevents the hypersevsitivity to cranking pressure after a torn diaphragm occurs in the VP44.

Comes back the weight versus what the tire is capable of holding. My rear axle weight is 2,860 pounds so I don't need 80 PSI or even 60 PSI for empty truck typically aired up to about 38-42 PSI on the rear axle. But since wood hauling season is on I left my tires aired up for now. What a rough ride... Ugh...

Here is more on the TCW3 standard... http://www.nmma.org/certification/certification/oil/tc-w3.aspx

Usually caused by something binding up like slide pins or the pistons in the caliper. I would suggest that you pull the caliper and check the piston fit by removing the boot and the seals then dropping the piston in the empty holes. It should fall to the bottom without being pushed in. I typically tune the pistons with fine sandpaper till the do fit properly. During all this work make sure the caliper is clean and the brake fluid is purged from the system and start over fresh.

Well its been a long day for me. My dog "Diesel" wound up going to the vet for a eye injury that neither Mom or I know how he got. But the lens of his eye is scuffed by a object like a stick or some thing. So he's going to be ok. Then get home and get a bunch of phone calls for A/C recharging here locally and one for a leaking VE pump. I managed to nail down the two A/C jobs and get them nearly done. But ran out of freon on the second job. So I got to finish the job tomorrow when the freon comes. Then I hook up with a friend in town to see what up. He reminds me that there is a fire meeting tonight. So off to Station 3 to pick up a fire truck and haul out to Slate Creek Station 5. We get there and started helping the fire chief setup and a bit of paper work. BAM! The tones go off for a fire back up towards home. Jump in Engine 3 and haul tail for the fire. I managed to make it to Riggins, ID and another fire fighter beat us to the punch and made it to the fire call. It was a electrical fire from a power pole problem. Ok. So we turn back around and head back to the fire meeting. (Yawn...) Ok. So the meeting is over I get home and give Diesel his night dose of meds for his eye and head down stairs to get read for bed. So as I'm brushing my teeth the light flicker. (Crap!) Still brushing my teeth and look at the inverter and the AC power is gone. Dang It. So I flick off the water heater and grabbed my laptop and laid in bed posting this. What a crazy day this has been... :rolleyes:I guess that's life in Rural Idaho...

Let me know i'll be happy to meet up with you some time in Caldwell...

Another site I have my hand in is the SmartyResource.Com site you might want to stop over and take to Brian or Dylan they should be able to help you out.

I'll call here in the morning to see what's up...

All right here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Another set of questions...Q: Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?Q: What's your fuel pressure like from Idle to WOT at highway speed?Q: What fuel system are you running?

Geez... I know I talked to Deborah... Well hang in there and I'll try again to get ahold of her and see what she'll do for pricing.

Remove the Quadzilla XZT from the truck and rehook the MAP sensor back to the ECM stock lead. If the value is still off then it might be a bad MAP sensor. If removing the XZT from the truck fixes it then the boost fooler is bad in the XZT. Disconnecting the batteries does only one thing. It wipes out the APPS sensor calibration. As for resetting error codes or software it will not do that. To reset the software you only need to turn the key off and back on because the ECM goes through a full reboot process.

I'm also looking for another set of rubber for the beast. My tire dealer has a new line of tires which where cheap is price. $626 for set of four 235/85 R16. http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/HIFLY/VIGOROUS-AT-601/23452