Mopar1973Man

Like last night I was working a event with the Fire Dept water the bank down in 104*F weather. With my long hair I can soak it all down and I remain much cooler that a bald person does. I typically wear a dew rag for this reason too keeps the sweat out of my eyes and spreads the sweat about the rag a bit keep the top of my head cooler. Not to meantion keeping the dirt and ash out of my hair as well on wildland fires.

You guys might want want to smack my Facebook icon and check out a few of the pictures I've posted up.

Riggins, ID is at $4.159 for diesel. As for me I couldn't even play the MPG now that I kind of nuked the MPG number getting a fire call in Whitebird, ID get almost to Riggins, ID and get called off. So this tank is going to be a dud and lower. That why I love the ScanGauge II being I can calibrate it and see it on per day basis then I'm not having to baby the truck every single day but drive as needed.

The only thing that stops me from CR engines in the price of injectors, the short lifespan of injectors on average, and the average life span of a CR Engine is much lower compared to 24V or even 12V engines. I got to admit the power is awesome in the newer trucks but is just the fuel system has its own weakness and increased price compared to olders systems. Oh yeah... the EPA BS needs to go away...

Cheater!

Truely he's a really a good friend that I've know over 20 years now and he's the type to dive in and get his hands dirty to help me out. I do favors for him all the time and help him out. So this just happen to be one of those times. Return the favor. With the tank empty its really easy to drop and put back up he was in the process of lining up every thing and getting really to push the tank back up in place I popped the picture at that point I slid in with the creeper and stabbed the 2 band up for him and he crawlled out and drank his beer. Seriously its not bad at all.

Most of you will ask about the driveline why its down its because the front tank band is under the carrier bearing for the driveshaft so its got to be dropped to get the front tank band down. Also the tank is very very empty when my buddy did this job. He dropped the tank, installed the fuel sender (gauge), and reinstalled the tank in under 1 hour. That why sipping few cold beers and me shooting pictures.

Simple solution... Get a 12 pack of beer and one friend. Put the camera in your hands and watch your friend drop the tank and re-install it.

Hmmm... Maybe us long hair hippies have all the fun. :lmao2:Funny that my previous barber was telling me that I've got a thin patch on the top of my starting. I don't know if its true as of yet. Keep it long as much as possible till... POOF its gone.

Ummm... Think its time to rebuild. If I'm not mistaken you should see between 400-450 PSI on a good tight engine and no lower than 350-375 PSI on a wore engine. As quote here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing You might want to check that AFe I think you had a dust leak and ruin a set of rings.

No. Typically I would say most dealers would send them out to be tested. Like around me there isn't a single dealer capable of pop testing. But now a diesel injection shop would. Electronics on top of the VP44 typically once they start to fail the continue to fail all the time. If the fuel pressure is greater than 14 PSI then the electronics will be at the temperature of the fuel regardless of the engine temperature. Typically the fuel temperature is <120*F so that's not going to be it either. But now the injectors while cold will have nice tight tolerances and fire nicely while the engine is cold but now get coolant temperature up and the tolerances of the pintle needle and the nozzle start to get a bit sloppy and end up with pissy injectors which is your misfire issue most likely. This why I suggest you take them and test them at least that is a low cost or free test. As for condemning the VP44 I have a rule of requiring 2 smoking guns. In other words I would require like low fuel pressure (<10 PSI) and P0216 error code. Then I'd say yes the VP44 is done time to replace. But we don't have that yet.

:duh:Take them to a local diesel shop and watch them test the injectors. All my injectors are tested in front of me I'm able to watch the pop pressure, spray pattern and if the injector is pissy or not. I typically don't pay anything for pop testing it only when the injectors have to be tuned I pay $15 a injector. Sound like you install them correctly the second time. But it still sound like a classic injecotr problem more so than injection pump. If it was the injection pump it typically doesn't matter what the temp of the engine is it will do it all the the time. But as a injector get hot they tend to fail and misfire but cold they work fine.

What said by MnTom is another possiblity of damaged/mis-tuned injector(s) too.

Drawstraw is easy. Lay a quarter in the bottom of the tank and cut the tube flat to fit. This is for a empty tank measurement as you fill the tank it will deflect away from the tip of the tube from the weight of the fuel. Do not cut at angle. you can lightly notch the tip bit no more that 1/16 or 1/8 of inch no more!No 1/4 tank issues here I typically can get right down to the Empty mark.

When installing the injector did you tighten the crossover tubes first or the injectors hold down caps?Correct answer is crossover should be first other wise the crossover tubes can't be seated correctly because the injector hold down caps should be loose so the injector can wiggle into position. So now you might have a high pressure leak inside the return rail and never see it but the engine will run as you describe.

Well all I can say is contact a local dealer and see what they are willing to do to make it right. I would document everything and take photos of all problems. Then contact the dealer and and see what he's willing to do. If they are not willing to play ball then you could contact the main office and see what they are willing to do. But most of all keep your calm going don't let them get under your skin. Even back with my 1976 Dodge Motorhome I bought from my Dad back in 1994 he provided me with all the documentation. I found several time the motorhome was returned to the dealer with several issues from stereo speakers, to roof leak, water pump issues, etc. But by the time I bought it no biggy. Just enjoy life with my "New" used 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome. Which I gladly traded in on the 2000 Jayco which I bought back in 2011. Once again a used unit without any issues.

Not to hijack... 2008 Honda Rancher ATV (Manual 5 Speed) 1983 Honda Goldwing (Manual 5 Speed) 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 (Manual 5 Speed) 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (Auto 4 Speed) You said what?! I will admit the technology has come a long ways since the release of the 46RE and 47RE transmissions and the newer 6 speed have been getting good reviews by others so I'm not really throwing rocks at any of them just been a manual guy for so long I really don't like a PCM deciding when to shift for me.

Just the rear axle sensor is use for speed. I would double check the connections of the Edge unit it might be a loose connection.

Yea. I still use the factory spare tire jack with no issues.But use my 3.5 ton floor jack for service work but use jack stands for security and safety.

An old trailer thread I think I should toss a few new ones on too... :whistle:2013 Bigtex 70TV trailer I purchased...My first haul of firewood in the BigTex 70TV trailer a bit light but still getting the feel for it.

Empty truck is no problem lifting from the diff housing. The dry rear axle weight of my truck is 2,860# so its a long ways from the 6,084# gross limits. The front axle is 4,440# dry weight so its not suggest to single jack the front in the center because all the weight. But now if the truck was loaded with cargo I would not lift from the diff at all but as close to the springs as possible.

Actually I do understand really well just the fact we had filled 2 fold-a-tanks with 2,400 gallons of water and the the tender sitting there with 1,200 gallons saves the engine crews the 9 mile round trip down to the creek to draft water. So they only have to roll out about 2 miles round trip and load up from our crew and not even draft we will pump to the fill port or top load if they want. You just start getting punchy by the time the type 2 team leaves and you are back to smaller type 3 that isn't doing much. Last few day they might of taken 600 gallons off the water tender to give you a idea. Even the engine boss was saying we are not empty but figure its slow so we'll top off with water to given everyone something to do.

At the time of my adventure there wasn't any HX35W turbos available any where. I was stuck with getting it rebuilt. Yeah ISX is right I have more damage done to mine. :banghead:

For historic reasons... Here is the web information on the fires... Rough Creek http://www.inciweb.org/incident/3512/ Electronic Site Fire - This didn't get listed for some reason but it was a small 6 acre burn with in about 1/4 mile of the Cold Spring Repeater.

I missed that... :doh:But here is a video on spin balancing turbo. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMA5RFpGRbg