Mopar1973Man

Another site I've got my hand in... www.smartresource.com www.smartresource.net Give these guys a crack really good information on the Smarty programmers. Note: the site was down with a MySQL server issue last time I checked it 07/07/2013 so it should be noticed by Monday morning and dealt with.

I've heard that too about floating a sync'ed trans. But also heard of several people floating gears and doing it for a very long time without problems. But I tend to agree with Mr Mindless that being Dodge installed the clutch and syncro's it best to shift using the clutch as designed. Like myself I've floated a few gears in my time in my truck but don't make a habit out of it.

How hard is that to load and unload? I've seen plenty of vintage slide in campers with jacks that fold up or the camper fell over. Matter of fact there was a camper left behind in the wood up here for that reason. It appears they try to unload it the jack failed and fell over in its side ruining the camper. I assume the owner couldn't get it up right again so he left it in the forest. Well never the less the snow came and crushed it so now it for sure ruined. This was some time ago but I never forgot it.

Electrical gauge tend to loose calibration and accuracy with age so after a 1-2 year and hook up a mechanical gauge you notice a 2-5 PSI difference possibly. Some have been better than other and some failed within months of installing. Dennhop is right a needle valve is required with ALL fuel pressure gauges be it mechanical, electrical or digital. Water hammer is still preduced by the injection pump (VE, P7100, VP44, CP3, etc) so you got to protect the gauge regardless from water hammer. So 2 things locate the gauge as far back from the injection pump but forward of the last filter and install and set a needle valve so it dampen the pulses.Thing is mechanical gauge will continue to work even when the rest of the truck doesn't. Where a electric gauge requires good ground for both sender and gauge to work properly then electricity to power the gauge and sender to show the fuel pressure.

I nearly did just that for my truck when I was RV shopping. But when I was thinking about it slide0in camper are no better than a motorhome. How so? Well like the motorhome I had you set up camp and get comfy and day or two want to leave camp and go somewhere. Now you got to pack up everything inside and outside then you could leave. But now with the travel trailer I unhitch set up and leave home park and now drive the truck around.So the bonus to the slide is that its smaller and lighter and less impact on MPG's to extent. But you have less room and water/waste holding. Also depends on your usage as well. Like MoparMom said your slide in camper would be awesome for a weekend warrior that does hunting camps.

When you pull the sender out just unplug the sender from inside the sender. Then pull the locking tab out of the plug and the assemble the new sender into the same two ports in the plug. snap the sender to the base and plug back in. I can change them in under 1 hour that includes pumping the tank dry and dropping the tank.

Put it back together and see if it will work under load.

Yeah... I called a friend last night in Louisiana (Towhungerford) and asked him as well. Told me the same thing. Just use the clutch for starting and stopping the truck. From there on out forget that clutch is there. Even he suggested against double clutching and suggest floating all gears.It seem there is going to be maybe 3-4 people capable of driving this truck. :duh:Well at least its a Cummins and I've got no problem driving one of those...

Here you go... This is the replacement sender. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

Stock to mild mod...0 to 35 PSI boost gauge0 to 30 PSI fuel pressure gauge0 to 1,600*F Pyrometer gaugeBoost gauge will cover the usable span of a stock turbo. A stock Hx35 turbo is good for 0-35 PSI.Fuel pressure gauge should be mechanical and with a needle valve. 0-30 PSI is fine because normal pressure is 14-20 PSI for these truck and should not drop below 10 PSI ever.Pyrometer gauge 0-1,600*F is typical. Most will say 1,200*F is top limit. You can pass this for a short span but keep it to seconds. ISS Pro, Westach and Autometer are the three common gauges now. I wish that Dipricol still existed...

Relays are not the only ones that produce this issue too. How about the vacuum valve on the Jacobs exhaust brake. That solenoid has enough surge to blow up LED lighted switches or standard bulb lights switches in about 10-20 cycles of the exhaust brake. So relay is one spot but not the only.But still with all this I've never had a ECM/PCM issue as of yet? I've got cooking summer heat like other areas of the country yes I've seen 112*F in Riggins, ID already this summer at a friends place. My ECM is mounted like every one else's. Just like I've only lost one VP44 to fuel pressure back at 50K miles. But never lost a VP44 to electronic failure or heat failure as of yet.Food for thought...

Wow! That amazing to fit all that in one small slide in camper. Funny I've got my 31' travel trailer which stand just as tall as your slide in camper. I imagine the slide is really helpful and makes more room for moving around. My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree was the same for a bathroom. No bigger than a phone booth and had you toilet, shower stall, and bathroom sink all crammed in that tiny space. It was a nice RV for its time but I sure enjoy the newer Jayco sitting in the back yard...

Suggestion. Make the pipe long enough that it would fit over the plant completely. Also I would suggest 4" pipe vs. 3" that I used. Then I would drive it down at least 5-6 inches if possible and hopes to twist off the sod plug. Most of mine won't do it so I had to reach down and pry the plug up with my fingers. Here is what I meant about looking at the neighbors... My delicious raspberries are just getting ripe. Blackberries are still behind... So is the blue berries... Then home sweet home... Something for Rogan to drool over...

P1594 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/220-p1594-charging-system-voltage-too-high P0463 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/189-p0463-fuel-level-sending-unit-volts-too-high P1492 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/218-p1492-ambient--battery-temp-sensor-too-high Run the tests to hopefully aid in finding the issue. I would check all the tubing for oily dirt and clean everything out. As for the compressor side of the turbo just pull the outlet tube and the use your favorite degreaser. I would prefer to pull the turbo and remove the compressor housing so to clean the housing properly and the compressor wheel with like a paint brush and solvent. I would build a boost leak cap place it on the turbo and pressurize the air system with 10-15 PSI and listen for leaks. It could be a simple bolt is missing to a boot the slipped off some what.

Well Gang... Our local fire department purchased 4,000 gallon water tender. It's a 1984 Kenworth Water Truck. It's got a Eaton/Fuller 9 speed transmission. So far I got a quick lesson from one of my fire fighter in my station. I've mastered the up shifting just fine but down shifting I tend to get stuck. So maybe there is a few gents here that done some big rigs that can school me up on shifting this beast. I got to admit its a wonderful water truck (Cummins Big Cam 400) it climbs steep mountain grades with a full load water without even struggling. I've just spent 2 days driving it around loading water tanks.So could some one give me some pointers... This is what I found...

That's a nice looking slide in camper. Curious does it have a bathroom and tanks (water and waste)?

Good! I rather have a yard of raspberries than looking at all the neighbor garbage piled up next to the fence. At least you can eat the product of the this bush. where the bushes we have now at the fence line are slow to leaf out in the spring and we lost a few bushes. So I'm going to replace it with raspberries and then there is more to eat. * Raspberries - Red and Gold * Cherries - Pie and Bing * Pears * Apples - Washington, Macintosh, Golden Delicious, and a few others. * Blue Berries * Black Berries * Lost - Peach tree * Lost - Nectarine tree

I know Mopar is still selling new units from the dealer but price is premium for them. What is strange is the few people I've talk to about getting rebuilder to do the work on a ECM about 90% of the time I keep hearing about a chip that is no longer produced or can't be purchased. That still get me stratching my head about that. Why is it that Mopar is still selling new ECM's but a rebuilder can't purchase the same chips to rebuild it?

How about a common failure like starter contacts? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/124-starter-contact-replacement

Might try War Eagle I think he's in thee Nampa Area... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/11041-War-Eagle?tab=aboutme#aboutme

I'm a odd duck when it comes to living in Idaho. Being that MoparMom and I downsized all the way around. Ditched the TV and satellite provider, solar and hydro power during the summer time for power, firewood heat in the winter time. So that only leaves power bill, phone bill and Internet bill basically. MoparMom would know more about the property taxes. But where we are at it's fairly cheap living really as long as you stock up and stay home. Now if you one that has to jump and run to the store daily then its not going to work for you.I got to admit it will be a culture shock but a good one if you move to Idaho away from the city.

Keep us posted. If there is anything I can do to aid you let me know.

Fuel pressure is low for cranking acts like a air leak right off. But strange part it not there cold after sitting all night. Cranking pressure should be 7-12 roughly. As for the diaphragm it make it hypersensitive to fuel pressure cranking. Something about timing is involved with this diaphragm. As for the used board it a fairly slim chance of it. If the pump came in with a mechanical failure like P0216 code then the electronics are re-used but if it had P1689, P0215, P0251, etc. Then the electronics are replaced. In either event the electronics have to pass 3 hours of a Bosch 815 Test Stand before even being program and ready for sale. So the electronics failure is pretty slim.

Now stay up with coolant changes and you'll never have to worry. Time wise I see a common 36 months or mile wise about 30-36K miles.

As long the oil meets the API grade on the bottle and API requirements of the engine then brand names means nothing. I've used Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella, etc. all 15w-40 petroleum oil. Being 1st and 2nd gen trucks were designed for CI-4 oils and 3rd Gens designed for CJ-4 oils (after 2007 IIRC). After dorkweed's run on Supertech for 84K on a single oil change. Then CajFlynn doing million plus miles on Chevron Delo and Fleetguard filters at every 20K miles. Why would you need anything else???