Mopar1973Man

I think I have the same blip in mine too. But I rarely look at the TPS signal because 90% of the time I'm using cruise control.

More than likely 6 and 1 need to be hooked up to make the ECM see idle position. This would ground the idle validation switch.

On the data plate it should be clearly stamped either HX35W or HY35W...Holset is really good about stamping the model information the compressor housing data plate.

Not yet. Coming soon though.

I've repaired my ABS sensor by soldering and shrink tubing then a good covering of electrical tape. No issues. Why? Because when it broke I figure I just replace the one sensor and be done. WRONG! If you replace ABS sensors in the front it has to be in pairs both left and right side at the same time. What happen is the new sensor worked but not match to the old sensor so 0-10 MPH no ABS light above 10 MPH the light tripped. So I repaired my old sensors and it works just fine and no light.

Welcome to the family.

As for the OP's transmission cooling question yes the transmission run much cooler if the torque converter is locked up. No. The Automatic 47RE does not have 5 speeds. I suggest some people download the Dodge FSM from the site and do a bit of reading.

Well I'm off and running to another SAR's call again. I was called out at about 2pm for a 25 year old male lost out mushroom picking. So I pack up and head out for the IC location. He's basically wearing tee shirt and jeans carrying two 5 gallon buckets. So we rode from IC camp to last seen and start looking for boot prints in the soft mud of the burn out forest area. What's bad is others have been in the area picking mushrooms and plus its been raining lately. Matter of fact at about 7,000 feet it started snowing on us. But we hiked around the north side of the knob where he was last seen. As I post before I carry my pack on my back its about 30-35 pounds with all the gear plus my 9mm pistol, radio and my multi-tool on my belt. So I'm really close to 40 pounds worth of gear. Needless to say I'm glad I've got every bit of it. Water, food, safety yellow jacket, gloves, etc. where all used. All I can say is hiking on a 45* angle slope and greasy mud is a real PITA. My legs, knees, and hips are sure feeling it. So on my way down I end up with a few minor problems like my rear right tire was running flat, rear rack the bolts where backing out. No biggy. I still made the truck and loaded up. Status of now his still out there the fog was setting in as we left for the night, temp where dipping down into the 30's and getting cold. I truly feel bad for anyone lost in the woods especially without cold weather gear. All I can say gang is say a few prayers for this lost soul that he might make it to safety or be found soon.

Check out this list of bank that where bailed out by the Gov't. http://projects.propublica.org/bailout/list

Test is invalid... The MAP sensor has to remain plugged into the sensor to test the other lines for voltage. Since the +5 volt has to run into the MAP sensor resistor, bias against the ground lead to return out of the sensor with voltage to the ECM. So unplugging the MAP plug and probing the socket is null and void. This why I typically suggest live data tool to see what the ECM sees so you can figure out the problem.

The testing I run by is seeing hotshots like CajFlynn that run ~20K miles on a oil change and clear 1 million miles on nothing more than Chevron Delo 15W-40 and Fleetguard filters. Synthetics? Not required. Bypass filter not required. 7.5K oil changes, just a bit too early. 10K I can handle that. Even the owners manual for my 1996 Dodge 1500 calls for oil changes every 6K miles. Why would a 6 quart engine only be 1.5K less than a 3 gallon engine?

Not really. Even the stock fan clutch if it detects enough engine heat it will partial engage to lock the fan to keep air flow enough during heavy traffic and keep the cab cool. Even on 100-110*F day crawling around on forestry roads at 10-20 MPH I have zero problems keeping the cab cool. Vent temperature is 35-38*F who can ask for more.My question is... Q: Is your compressor cycling in and out? If so then check your freon pressures in those conditions and find out what is going on you might be low on freon. Even Sanden Compressor manual states the compressor should remain lock under normal conditions and only cycle up to 2 times in 1 minute tops.

I tend to agree. What's funny is for the extra 150 HP plus the stock 235 HP turns out 385 HP roughly. Which makes use still just a bit stronger than a 03-07 CR Engine. BHAF is so large of a filter I really can't see any issues being with the filter unless your really up high in HP maybe like 750+ HP numbers then I can see it might be restrictive. For a stock or mildly modified truck I would have to say the claim of 25 HP lost is invalid till we see restriction data in inches water column.

That's correct. This has always been debate for the longest time but after seeing that video and a discussion here about discharge temps of the turbo then it was very clear that what you feed the turbo temp wise wasn't going to change the IAT temp very much because the intercooler was the biggest factor in manifold temp (IAT Temps) not cold air intakes. Turbo temp calculator http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

Deborarh has gotten back to me I'm hoping to get a answer for all you about products very soon.

I've added more to my day pack. * Cigarette Lighter* Pack of Kitchen Matches* Magnesium Block and Flint* Water filter and pump.I got to admit I've been out in the wood several time and gotten turned around. I always find my way back as long as you keep your cool. Like Dennhop points out your screwed after that. So once you start to feel the panic come on your best to sit down and thing it out. Wondering around aimlessly will get you in more trouble. Out here in the mountain of Idaho It's always suggested to go down hill you'll always cross a road or water way sooner or later. Since water is a key to survival at least you'll have that. As for travel if you continue to hike in any direction you eventually find a road. It might be a few miles but you'll find one. If I could lay the Nezperce Forest Map out and and scan it you'd be surprised how many trails, forestry roads, and such are in the area. Then how many water ways.

Well some how you got to meet Bosch standards to prevent damage...Remember US #2 Diesel fuel is ~520 HFRR and EU #2 Diesel fuel is 450-460 HFRR big difference...

Time for a rebuild if the compressor wheel is moving on the shaft. Here is the method of inspect your turbo. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection Not good. You do know there is no such thing as a CAI (Cold Air Intake)? (Left gauge is after intercooler right gauge is before the intercooler from the turbo). https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8 So that means the biggest thing you got to worry about is filtration. Being that all washable filters tend to break down each time you wash them means that in a short period of time you'll be pushing dirt through.

Won't work you can sell the ScanGauge II now... Since you now have the P7100 there is going to be no feedback of fuel data. Not to mention the rash of all the error code from the ECM still hunting for all the missing devices. The only device that will report correct error codes will be the PCM. You'll have to go back to old tyme method of fill the tank math method.

Smoke switch installed? If so remove it. Is the MAP sensor hooked up to the Edge? If not hook it up. Yes. Please do unplug the entire unit it could be a bad boost fooler in the Edge Comp causing this issue.

Except the HFRR still has to be met.

Simple. Insert the neck of the of the BHAF into the intake tube and tighten clamp just snug. Don't crank it super tight it will deform the plastic and keep popping off. If you want to beef up the neck just insert a piece of 4" exhaust pipe inside the BHAF neck and tighten the same way.

First thing don't mix any additive together. 2 Cycle oil is typically the reverse of most additive so it negates the benefits of the other product. Always pick one product and use just that product don't mix them. As for HFRR score you want that as low as possible. This will keep your fuel system lubed up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives As for fuel mileage you want your cetane as low as possible. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects More BTU's in low cetane fuel than high cetane fuels.

At nearly 1/2 oz to gallon or 200:1 ratio your injectors will love you for it. There is typically little to no change for 3rd Gen people because the pre-injection event mask the change. No 2 cycle oil will not harm a 3rd Gen but it might add miles to you weak injectors that cost a pretty penny to replace. Even Bosch states that US fuel doesn't meet the requirements for Bosch fuel systems. Remember today fuel at the pump is ~520 HFRR. As for the convertor. I would also consider just changing out the muffler or change out the entire exhaust system as a full kill and put your stock system aways if the need be. Let's just say my stock 3" pipe without a muffler supports just about 400 HP without any EGT's issues or flow issues and still keeping 20-22 MPG. So your 4" with a CAT I doubt there is much restriction.

Now I'm curious of you MPG's compared to the VP44... Up or down? I know I got to wait till you run a tank of fuel being P7100 pump cannot be used on the ScanGauge II.