Mopar1973Man

You know if they showed that same video back for the 2nd Gen's it would of been assembled in about half the time...

I would just flush the the system completely with water for several minutes and then reload with what ever coolant you want.

Collapsed lifter?What's the oil pressure like?

I use mine 90-95% of the time. I moved the switch to my stick and control it with my right thumb. I can use mine all the way down to 0 MPH. Here is a few videos of how I use it.

Ummm... Seems someone read my ball joint nightmare thread. Harbor freight ball joint press will work but its not perfect. Actually harbor freight ball joint press works awesome on u-joints.

Pull the thermostat out and stick the hose in the radiator and turn on high. Then fire up the truck and let the water pump through till clear. Shut off and drain the water out park it nose down on a slope. Then mix your coolant 50/50 and fill the block up till the coolant is level with the thermostat hole. Then replace the thermostat with a new one and install. Top off with coolant. Take it for a ride and allow to cool and check your levels again.

I got a friend's dad to put my rotors up on a lathe and turn them true. He fiddled around with getting them exactly perfect in the lathe for nearly 30 minutes a piece. Then only turned about 5 to 10 thousandths off all 4 rotors. Absolutely smooth and great braking. (Thank you Relentless70)

NAPA... I've got Dripley's $10 thermostat and it works fine! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5637-Would-you-come-forward-please!?highlight=thermostat Typically that would show up as a constant hot engine because of diminished cooling capacity of the radiator. Happens every winter with outside temps in the minus. Still an all the thermostat should closed and keep its heat. Once again consider my minus temperature up north here I still have ZERO problem keeping 190-195 solid all winter long.

During this process you should be able to back probe the clockspring also and see if the switch is working or not. Could be a damaged clockspring or a damaged switch. I doubt is a servo problem because if it was you would have trouble either holding cruise or outright shutting it down.

Like these guys are showing there is a rare chance that something else will effect weird coolant temperatures. But would rather replace thermostats that guessing at ECM and wiring unless the thermostats don't fix the problems. So make sure to do you testing before buying ECM or wiring harness.

This river ranges from 40-100 feet deep. In some areas its can be only waist deep. Yeah a fish finder or sonar would be a good idea.

That the only reason I don't think it will change much. But we need to hear from the OP and find out what he's found any ways...

99.9% of the time is a bad thermostat.

Another great video on how engine blocks are made.

Something I stumbled across on Youtube and figured its worth sharing.

Corrected link. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=220

Haven't yet. At least on the 96 Dodge...My 02 is solid axle which is another option to to forcibly lock the axle and leave it locked. There is no real big loss in MPG's with locked really.

Oil Leaks locations [*]Front crank seal [*]Rear Crank seal [*]Tappet cover gasket (or AKA cam cover gasket) [*]Vacuum pump [*]Valve cover gasket (rare) [*]Turbo drain (hose connection) Vacuum leaks As for vacuum lines for the plastic just remove them and flex the line in a big arc and if the line is crack it will continue to crack or break when you bow the plastic because it just plan brittle from age. I just grab some vinyl tubing and replaced all the lines on MoparMom's 96 Dodge for the same issue. Other than that the vacuum pump becomes a air compressor and imitates blow by issues. Personal note: I need to catch you phone call I'll be home tonight!

Hey gang... Let put THRacing and Rogan into our prayers that they both can over come their medical issues that they are both having! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7714-re-dad?p=73450#post73450

Vacuum pump blow by is typically created by a vacuum leak in one of the hoses. Broken or cracked piece of plastic tube, harden rubber connectors, etc.I would look at the simple stuff first before yanking put the vacuum pump and power steering box combo to rebuild that vacuum pump. Unless you have a oil leak there too. All diesel engines will have a certain amount of blow by but my rule of thumb is as long as the blow by isn't serve enough to blow oil out the breather tube your fine.

I don't think that going to work being he might have a sucking air leak downstream.

DANGER! DANGER! THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES. WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. This goes a long with this thread. WARNING! Very graphic nature http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6090-Hydraulic-Injection-Injury?highlight=injection+injury

Yes... If your going that far you might as well change it out and get a new one. Yours is most likely plugged up with dirt and gunk. You'll see when you pull it out.

Should be a sticker under the hood, in the glove box and the steel tag on the diff. In the glove box of the 02 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1539&d=1301768538 Under the hood on the 96..

... Remember it should spit that fairly forceful that VP44 is trying to reach 4,500 PSI just for a idle so if its just dribbling you know you either have air in the system or the VP44 injection pump is not doing so great.