Mopar1973Man

There is a typo in my last post. Corrected number I was trying to remember and post it and screwed it up. :banghead: Garmin GPS V ...... 21.6 miles ScanGauge II ....... 21.6 miles Truck Odometer .... 22.0 miles Ok... Bit long extended trip added into today till I quit... Garmin GPS V ...... 76.4 miles ScanGauge II ....... 76.5 miles (+ 0.1 Off) Truck Odometer .... 77.9 miles (+ 1.4 off) No. Already got correct speedometer for the most part. But this also proves my fuel data from the ScanGauge II is very close to accurate. (Formula: MPH / GPH = MPG) Between my 02 on 96 Dodges the 02 is off 0.5 MPH and then the 96 is a special case. The 96 shows 4 MPH fast on the needle but the OBDII port is right on the money.

Well here is run number two. I had to run down to Fire Station #3 this morning to drive a fire truck to Grangeville, ID. So I ran the test again for my truck from home to the fire shed and back to home. Garmin GPS V ...... 21.0 miles ScanGauge II ....... 21.0 miles Truck Odometer .... 21.6 miles Seem like my truck is truly 0.5 MPH as seen on the Garmin GPS V I've got. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod155.html

Why not just make a article database for RV / Towing and add write up to it. :smart:You can produce the information here and organize it. Then like I said add it to the article database then the world can share in the information. One pet peeve is I would like to get all the Dodge towing weights from 1989 to Current time as a article but I want it from the actual owners manuals not RV / tow sites. The numbers seen skewed.

More on Drag Coefficiency... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_drag_coefficient http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Vehicle_Coefficient_of_Drag_List As from what I found on Drag numbers for Dodge Ram truck range from 0.41 to 0.52.

A/C lines shouldn't freeze. This is a sign of low freon pressures on the low side. The lower the low side pressure get the colder it gets. So a typical automotive A/C unit is charged to roughly 35-40 PSI (R134a) and a normal house refrigerator is charged to 2-5 PSI (R12 days when I use to work with it). So I would verify the freon pressures again and be sure there is enough freon in the system.Dis-regard the red line I goofed...

Personally from what I read on the RV forum it not suggested to convert either a fifth wheel or goose neck back and forth. I know they sell adapters for it but there is some issues with stress on the adapters and the trailer as well. It seem that most RV's are typically 5th wheel where most ultility trailers are goose neck.As for me personally I tried to avoid either set up. I don't want to have a ball in the bed nor a fifth wheel plate to deal with. Not to mention the lost of storage space in the bed. Where most fifth wheel and goose neck set up either you remove the tailgate or replace with a notch tailgate.

Common Rails do some weird things including blowing the entire tip off the injectors.

Just to show the amount of return flow with a good 14-20 PSI supplied to the VP44...

Got the same problem. Dirty injectors. I can pull them out clean them and then the problem is gone. Just dragging tail about doing it again. Actually this time I'm going to have them pop tested and calibrated if I pull them out. Now seeing ISX new method of cleaning injectors I'm going to grab a can of carb dip and clean mine with that...

Mine failed at a 1/2 tank shown on the gauge but the tank was empty. Not always does the gauge just got to empty and die. Like my Dodge Ram 1500 has bad spot at 3/4 of tank where it drops to empty then works normally the rest of the span.

Sound like its time to pull out the DVM and do some more testing like ohm testing the magnets and checking for voltage att the magnets. Dexter axles has test for checking amperage draw if I remember right.

There is a way of checking the sender to be sure you not hung up on the wall. Crawl under and loosen the collar nut. The carefully twist the sender one way and listen for the float arm to bang then back the other direction and listen again to bang again. Then measure about half the way and tighten again this should verify the arm is not trapped again the wall giving a poor reading.

Nope. same pressure as the MAP sensor or the boost bolt. Just don't have the problem of the bolt being in the way. It's a 3/4 inch pipe plug with a 3/4 to 1/2 steel bushing then a 1/2 to 1/8 bushing for the boost tubing. Just remember the 1/2 pipe plug is a coolant passage and you don't want to mess with it.

:think:Still never had any issues with either power steering or the vacuum pump yet. Must have somethng to do with the 30k mile power steering fluid changes and the Frantz Bypass filter on the engine oil. I don't use any synthetics oils in either the power steering or engine oil.

Here is my updated video on this testing... Basicallly I just diconnect the alternator on both the feild and fuse and now the system should be pure DC power.

Here is the out of the way port for the boost gauge... On my 5 speed my fill plug is on the passenger side about 1/2 way up the case and requires a allen wrench to remove the plug. The drain plug is either bottom bolt of the PTO cover in the center.

Ever since I shimmed and egged shaped the spring on my AirDog 150 pump I've been keeping good high pressures. The only thing I notice so far is I can see how cold my fuel is by how low my fuel pressure drops under load. But once the fuel warms up I'm right near 18-19 at idle and 16-17 at WOT. So I drop a 1-2 PSI roughly the colder fuel gets.

I'm just curious. what I'm actually up to is figuring out a test bed method of checking for odometer accuracy on either the truck or ScanGauge. So I'm more or less thinking out loud and keeping my notes here.

Yeah that sounds about right. Normally the hi/lo switches are run with the PCM so when there is full throttle operation or other system malfunction the PCM can block out the A/C system as well. But your method will work just as well too. As long as the main amperage draw is not routed through the hi / lo switches your good.

Odometer Accuracy I had a Search and rescue meeting tonight. On my way home I thought about how accurate my odometer is. Since I had the GPS on the dash and the ScanGauge II. I decided to clear the trip on the odometer, clear the GPS odometer and then clear the ScanGauge II odometer. Also the ScanGauge is set with a 1% offset to correct the speed to correct with the GPS. I know the distance for the test was rather short but it did uncover a odometer error on the stock cluster. The test distance was 4.95 miles exactly on the GPS. The ScanGauge II was showing 4.9 miles and the truck odometer was showing 5.0 miles. I'm going to re-run this test again on a long test on post up my findings. This was kind of one of those in the back of my head thought to do just to see what would happen. But from what I've seen so far my GPS and ScanGauge II are right on for distance but the truck is off. I'm going to try for a 100 mile trip and see what happens. -- More to come.

No problems with fan lock up. My fan doesn't lock till 205*F worth of coolant.

Not to mention the impression of the 2 valves on the piston you can barely see. I bet the bearings are toast on that piston too.

VP44 is toast. But now the cause of the VP44 failure to need to be found. I would investigate the alternator be sure its not producing AC noise because of a bad diode also the fuel pressure need to be tested and be sure its 14-20 PSI at all times. Low pressure lights are worthless because by the time that light comes on the damage is already done. Like I said above fuel pressure should be 14-20 PSI well most low pressure lights are 3-5 PSI and below 10 PSI damage is being done for for sure. So on that shopping list add a $40 dollar fuel pressure gauge to it so you never have this failure again.

One of the few reasons I live where I do...

I did the same thing about a week ago. I had day time temps about 75*F and still had the winter fronts on towing my smaller utility trailer around. No issues with coolant or IAT temps. Coolant hovered at 195*F and IAT barely crossed the 120*F but was doing really good MPG wise. Then I got the call the SAR's so when I stopped at my buddies house to pick him up I yank out the winter fronts. I knew it was going to get hairy responding to a emergency call. But I would not suggest winter fronts above 80*F I notice the EGT's cool down for the turbo is extend considerably. Not that that there excessive hot on the highway or anything like that it just it takes much longer to cool down that typical. This is the weird season for me. I start out with 28-35*F weather in the morning and can hit 70-80*F for a daytime high. Then leave here in the morning and get to New Meadows, ID proper and still see 15-20*F for a morning starting temp. What to do what to do?