Mopar1973Man

Holy Cow... I think farmer Joe lost the trailer of cows getting to the track...

WAIT TO START light comes on typically and runs the grid heaters that are draing 190A worth. So if the temps are above +32*F you can start without grid heaters with no issue. Below +32*F you might have issues getting it to start.So now if the block heater was plugged in about 2-3 hours before hand you wouldn't need to wait at all just hit the key and go. Block temperature should be roughly 90-110*F which will also be plenty for a no grid heater start.

Then there is CajFlynn the towing nut of the site... Ask him what that weighs???

Both are possible...

That idea was snagged from over at RamForum.Com. There some guys over there that are producing this bar that you just bolt on. So I figure with a bit of shop time and junk steel I could do the same. But I will mention by placing the fog lamp in the grill and putting the air dam back on the front I gained about 2 MPG on that little 5.9L gasser. It was a well worth it mod. :thumbup2:Just need to buy a bulb for the one side... :banghead:Now that wiring idea will work with any fog or driving light you want to use. The only reason I switch to these is the fact that in the winter time the highway are heavily graveled and I end up breaking at least 1 fog light a winter. So after spending huge money on KC's or other name brand lights to break a lens I finally switch over to the seal beam bulbs because no biggy if it broke smash it with a hammer and vacuum the glass out. Hook up the wires and snap back in the rubber bucket. simple...

Remember this is a 1996 Dodge 1500 5.9L Gasser... Not a diesel. All it built on is a piece of re-bar. Welded tabs to the rebar to mount the light to the re-bar. The hacked up a old extension cord for the wiring. I know this is very redneck looking but it works awesome.

Just a little heads up for you 3rd Gen owners I know I had the simple error coe list at the top of the page. I'm currently working on the explained version of the error codes for the site you might want to take a look over here. It's incomplete but about half of them are there now. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes Enjoy...

Possible. A lot of people have had issues with air leaks around the quick connectors. Since it a suction line it never leak outward. Even with the engine off air leaks inward draining the line out.

Auto - 3.55 - 16,000# (GCWR) - 9,300# (Long Bed - Trailer)

Local NAPA store...

Model - GVWR - Engine - Transmission - Axle Ratio - GCWR - Max Trailer (short) - Max Trailer (long)

http://youtu.be/Hzgzim5m7oU

I've been using FireFox 17.0 (Ubuntu 12.04). No issues here Rarely hang and very secure. Using a few plugins.. [*]Click and Clean [*]Better Privacy [*]Ad Block Plus [*]No Script You also got to remember FireFox for Windows is different than FireFox for Ubuntu. Even surfing to other site like CumminsForum with all it ad banners and such are all blocked up. no nagging popup ads either. Now I know ISX is a Opera Fan.

:shrug:I left both of them in for a very long extended period (roughly 30K to 50K miles) kept monitoring the IAT temps and they remain valid even with the sensor all gunked up. so I don't give the sensor cleaning much effort any longer.

Was so much a EPA problem. But it was a tax flow problem since EU has different was of getting tax dollars than we do. So with high MPG vehicles here in US the gov't loses huge chunk of income because you don't buy as much fuel.

AirDog's quick connectors are known to leak on the suction fitting most people have to give Vulcan Performance a call and talk to Eric about upgrading fittings to over come the problem.

Strange enough. Out here in Idaho trucks towing RV don't need special plates. But towing utility trailers you do. As for some of those big 5th wheels I seen where must have jump up to a medium duty truck to tow with. It is so much the being able to pull or stop the trailer it more of the Tail Wagging The Dog problem the trailer ends up having more weight and mass and our little trucks have a hard time holding it steady with cross winds.

I miss the P0121 the first go around. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/150-p0121-apps-sensor-volts-do-not-agree-idle-validation-signal

I would look towards drag too. I know my short trip driving is killing mine. I'm driving less than 5 miles not really getting fully warmed up. So my MPG on avg are like 16-18... Also I know the tune I'm playing with doesn't help either. (Edge Comp on 5x3)I'm now been working back on the 96 and using it more again because of the short trips.

Scary thought... Here what happen to guy that thought a AirDog 150 would cover everything till the day he hook up the new fuel pressure gauge. http://youtu.be/NB8o24rw1eU Now compare to... Which is normal.http://youtu.be/grl72Up-8T0 In the return trip you'll see I suck a air bubble...

1/4 watt is fine. 1/2 watt is OK but over kill. Left to right going from high wattage to lowest.

The old injection pump might of had internal issues that why it was idling at 900 and now with the new pump your idling slighly lower. Pepsi1971Ocean had the same thing occur after swapping injection pumps. The transmission is also another factor where triple disc tend to drag the engine down fairly good trying to get into gear.

Correct on the error codes. The P1693 is from the PCM reporting there is more codes on the ECM. So when the ECM reports it shows the P0602. (Fueling Calibration error).So now what's your fuel pressure like?

He's correct. There is no adjustment for idle on our trucks. The APPS sensor when its at idle the voltage is not used. So when switch one is grounded the ECM uses its internal software govern idle speeds based off of engine coolant temperature.

Edge Comp is one of the easiest modules to hook up.* Power +12* Ground* MAP Sensor* CANBus* Injection pumpThat's it nothing more.