Mopar1973Man

Well I'm home quick... The hunter walk past his trail missed camp and didn't return to camp that night but walked into base camp we had at the bottom of the mountain. So it was a nice ride on the ATV...The hunter had a good sense of humor he standing there next to the Sheriff and said, " Yeap! I'm the one you want to kick the crap out off. Everyone row up and take your shot!" I laughed a bit and told it best that your still sucking air and alive to tell us you OK. That's the good news!

I'm off and running early this morning looking for a lost hunter in my neighborhood. Tell you more when I get home.

MAP sensor plugs and MAP sensor voltages are different. Then the pin assignment on the MAP sensor is also different. Don't think of chopping a plug off and wiring on another. Won't work.

Ummm... I've got nearly 8-9 cords in the yard now and splitting wet firewood. So what I got to do is ran with the dry stuff in the shed and stack the wet stuff out in the yard to allow it to dry some more under a tarp. I learn my learn long ago you never split wet firewood and stack it in front of you dry.

1/8" Air Brake line...

Midwest fuel injection also does new computers too. (At least what I've heard).

Ok. Is the lift pump functional? Is the filter plugged? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps Did you try to prime the fuel system? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/90-repriming-a-bosch-vp44-injection-system More ideas here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/40-basic-diagnostics

Here is how I've been doing it. Place the injector in the hole and then slip the cover in place and lever back down to seat the injector. Notes Then tighten your cross over tube before you even think of putting that bolt in the cover.

The top 3 killers of VP44's.1. Lack of fuel pressure.2. Lack of lubricity.3. Lack of filtration.To this day I've never seen a wire tap kill a VP44. Seriously. Usually one of the above things that kills it. Just Bosch rebuilders love to blame the owners for mods because they make more money that way. :whistle:I listened to all the horror stories too and got to the point and said, "Screw it! I'm going forward just like everyone else on this planet did." If it wasn't for the wire tap we wouldn't be making serious horsepower with these engine and would be the laughing stock of the diesel world.But this is your truck and your money so you can listen or ignore me your choice...

How much water are you talking about?

Rule of thumb for 4WD and tire chain users. I typically run around everywhere in the winter in 2WD. If I've got to run 4WD I should reconsider what I'm doing because I'm using my last line of defence from getting stuck. I might use 4WD to get moving on slick ground is fine but I return back to 2WD. Now if I'm going up a plowed forestry road to a friends house. Yes, I'll used 4WD but still thinking about the last line of defence is my chains. Now if you 4WD and chain up and you got stuck your somewhere you really don't need to be. So I've gotten use to being solely 2WD most of the winter time. There is so many people that assume they will just use 4WD and there fine. They will never get stuck. Yeah Right. When they do get stuck they are screw because they used their Ace to fast and now don't have anything but to get walkin'... No chains, No studs, No 4WD...

Park it. Disconnect the batteries. That's it.When you return you might put a 2 amp charger on the batteries. Check over all the fluids. Then fire it up. As for diesel fuel its not like gasoline where it evaporates. Diesel is a light oil product and shouldn't evaporate. So there is no real need to treat diesel fuel like gasoline which does evaporate out. As for the fluid of the truck if they are not in bad shape or close to due time/miles then there is no need to change a bunch of fluid if stored in a shop/garage. Now if it was outside I would consider the fluid change more so because of moisture collecting in the axle, transmission, etc.

Yes. I would... Not like a gasser where everything is control by electrical pulses this is solely pressure against a spring. Stock VP44 will have a aluminium cover which you remove and put the stealth plate on top of the electronics so when the pump returns for warranty coverage you remove your plate and install the stock cover. No hole to be seen or cut wire. No problem... That what the forum is here for to hear many different views and ideas...

Here is my current setup with my 265's Coopers back on... 3,415# @ 80 PSI Using axle scale weights and calculating the tire pressures. 4,440 / 2 = 2,220 / 3,415 = .65 x 80 = 52 PSI (50 PSI) 2,860 / 2 = 1,430 / 3,415 = .41 x 80 = 33 PSI (35 PSI) Excellent traction. Now if I was to return to my 235's... 3,750# @ 110 PSI 4,440 / 2 = 2,220 / 3750 = .59 x 110 = 65 PSI (65 PSI) 2,860 / 2 = 1,430 / 3750 = .38 x 110 = 41 PSI (45 PSI) Good traction and tire wear... When I switch to towing I jump the rear up to 60-65 PSI and I'm done. Because the front axle weight typical remains the same but the rear axle is really close to the same weight.

1. Dealer with warranty coverage back at 48K miles.2. Using a stealth plate its not dangerous at all.3. Non-wire tapped it limited to 60-65 HP regardless of what you get. But tapped you can reach out to 120-180 HP.4. I would rather opt for full injectors knowing they are pop tested and going to in time. Where as nozzles and not pop testing you might have the pop pressures off and so timing will be off advanced or retarded on a per cylinder basis.

I use a intake bolt and a screwdriver to pry them out. Then I use the injector cover to push them back in...

Personally I think it would become a PITA do all the time.

Started drifting cold and colder. Started out good and then continued to have a lower high temperature. So under max load I was 183-185*F and then no load running 175*F or so.

What furnace??? I don't have one... Been burning firewood since Oct 1...

Been tried years ago... Remember AMC (American Motor Corp.)?

I'm not going to step on the Ford bashing either but I still say stay to the older stuff that is known and fixes on corrections can be made. Like on our Dodge's (24V) we know what the weakness are and deal with them accordingly. Just do the same with a older Ford or Chevy product research the weakness and deal with it!

I would also suggest the diesel line too but I tend to suggest the older series of diesel that are known.

Depends on the turbo... Like the 1st gen with a HX35W turbo will boost 30-35 PSI without thinking. But stock it barely makes 15 PSI H1C Turbo.

Check for error codes. (P0380 or P0382)Check the grid heater fusible links.Check the IAT sensor with a live data tool for accurate temp readings.As for starting these truck don't need grid heater till your under 32*F. So that being said I would be looking at possible air leaks in the fuel system.

Put on my winter fronts drove to Ontario, OR and it was 75*F out. I though for sure there would be a issue with EGT's or engine temp. Nope coolant hover at 190-195*F with Dripley's thermostat and EGT's where no different that typical. But I could hear the fan lock/unlock now and then.What was weird started out here at 38-40*F... :banghead: