Mopar1973Man

Now you also know that hand math is not accurate either.

No. There is no other ground. The PCM is on the passenger side firewall and the ECM is on the driver side of the engine block. The PCM gets it ground direct from the passenger side ground cable. Then the ECM and VP44 get there ground from the driver side battery cable. As for maintaining my battery cables I never even mess with them, I never bother to clean them, I never have to put sandpaper or wire brush to them. How you might ask? I keep them coated with engine oil that's all. Remember I'm the battery king... My whole house is ran off of 24V battery system.

Slow cranking is most likely starter brushes are wiped out. http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

First off no teflon tape and any sender fittings. Make sure the sender had good contact to the banjo bolt (metal to metal). What happens is the teflon insulates the sender from ground so the pressure gauge will show low or nothing. Teflon tape is not a good thing to possibly get into the fuel system to it would most like cause some serious issues.There is a air bubble caught in the filter housing and the drain is show fuel but the air bubble is being forced through the filter towards the VP44 so since air can be compressed the sender is still seeing zero. You should bleed the line at the VP44 by using the schrader valve or cracking the banjo fitting. Then crack 1,3,4 injector lines and crank till you see fuel spray or it starts. Then shut down tighten the injector lines and fire it up.

Realy for the lift pump is safe the current draw is small. I bet Rogan can tell you how much current in mA it takes to trigger a relay.

Already done. The PCM is direct connected to the passenger side battery terminal and has no tie to the body. No. Because most are either weak ground connections (corroded terimnals) or bad alternator diodes. I think the mechanical regulator would be way too harsh on the electronics with the pulse hi and pulse lo type charging like back in the old days there wasn't any electronics really just lights and switches. As for the relay style hook like AirDog and FASS is the best way to hook up the lift pump and keep the heavy current draw off the ECM and prevents damage. But the biggest cause of damage is AC noise that is either cause from loose alternator connection, bad alternator diodes, or bad alternator field brushes... Because technically if the batteries would hold up for ever and never need external charging the ECM and PCM would never take on damage.

SuperChips should be a boost fooler anyways like a Smarty. So there is no need for a boost fooler. But you'll need to get a adjustable boost elbow so you can increase the boost of the turbo (This is for manual truck with a HX35W Turbo). If you got a HY35W Turbo (Automatic) then you would use a J Hook to control the wastegate.

Speed variance is from wrong sized tires. Scan Gauge should be calibrated to the GPS not the speedo. Mine does the same thing in the 02 Dodge after 65 MPH. Speedo = 65 - GPS = 65.5 - SGII = 66 Speedo = 70 - GPS = 71.0 - SGII = 71 But there is a slight 0.5 MPH offset and the SGII is calibrated to the GPS not the speedometer.

Must not of bled it out right and have air bubble caught in the system. You must remove the entire htdrualic system to bleed it properly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement Yes you can buy them separately.

If you pulling the trans out to deal with one part I would get a full rebuild kit anyways...

HX35W turbo would be a nice upgrade but won't change power at all just reduce EGT's a bit.But now a tuner like a Smarty (65 HP), Edge Comp (120 HP), Edge Juice (120 HP), Quadzilla XLT (65 HP), Power Puck (65 HP), Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP) will actually change power. But adding any kind of fueling change I highly suggest gauges if you don't already have them.

Yea... Water pumps are simple job to do on a Cummins.

Welcome to the family. I'm more of the type of person to do the work myself knowing that I done the work to the best of my abilities. So if you not sure of what going on or how to fix it... Please, Please, Please ask lots of questions we'll be more than happy to help out. Maybe if you talk to family members enough you might someone close by willing to help you out.

What happened?

Sound like you guys and gals did ok? :shrug:I'm without TV so news of other areas is by word of mouth.

Good to hear its running again...

Raptor 100 no modification are needed as far as I know...

Put the truck on the scales and find out.

Piece of rubber radiator hose and a hose clamp? (Redneck solution)

Time to check error codes and fuel pressure...

That's weird... Even hitching up my trailer the overload springs come close but don't touch.

Check out a 2002 Dodge Ram and you find that the stops are rubber coated. Strange though my truck NEVER hits the stops unless it loaded plum full of firewood then you might hear the helpers bang on the stops now and then. I'm just a little 2500...

That why I don't go for exact weight I go for pressure at running RPM's. (1,200-1,500 RPM) Because I don't jump in the truck and idle around... I drive the truck. So I charge the system to give me opimial pressures at driving conditions typically just a few extra ounces needed to get that effect.Another tidbit of study work. When we typically charge the system you have the controls set for MAX A/C and fan to high. Well guess what?! When you turn the fan to low the pressures fall. So once again double check you pressures for your working conditions. Because every time you compressor cycles out the efficency is lost. Since the compressor stops the lo side rises (warms) and the hi side falls (cools) so now when the compressor kick back in it needs to recover and then most likely cycles out again. This why I typically charge a bit more and bit higher in pressures.

Video and cameras are also very handy tools too. If you get lucky and get a photo or video of the vehicles or people it can be used to track them down. As for me I'm starting Open Carry more often. As for weapons I typically have a pistol or a rifle close by at all times. I've even joined a forum of Idaho Carry (Open or Concealed) As for the Idaho neighborhood its OK for the time but there is a few bad seed around here and I see the hand writing on the wall and know that when they get desperate they will steal just about anything from firewood, equipment, trailers, vehicles, you name it. So typically I keep everything locked up around here every night. Another neat thing here! I've installed doubled key sided deadbolts in both buildings. So if you think you going to break in and come out the front door think again. Unless you have the key the door is not going to open for you. Yes I might sound paranoid but after living in Los Angeles, California for 20 years and being broke into, car vandalized, personal property stolen you tend to never change or trust anyone. Like I'm already planning on fencing off the property, adding a gate that will be locked. I realize it not much but it will keep the honest people honest and give Diesel "The Dog" a chance at getting to the fence before the intruder.

Need to check both error codes and fuel pressure. Very few codes actually trip the light...