Mopar1973Man

ATF fluid and filter changes every 30K miles. Then adjust the bands. As for the lock up issues I just got the answer you want. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884

Let put it this way... With my mod I don't loose enough have to add oil. But I do put a few drips on the garage floor. The problem with the factory vent its mostly panic or hard stops that slosh oil out that tube. That why the reverse direction of mine to stop that action as well as up and over the engine to force the oil to try and climb.

If the outside temps are below +60*F and this is first start you should wait for the light. But if the engine is fully warmed up no need to wait just hit the key and go.All the WAIT TO START does it the ECM boots up and detect the manifold temperature if the IAT teemparture is below +60*F then the grid heaters are active for a pre-set amount of time. Then the light goes out after the time. If the IAT temperature is above +60*F then the light only comes on as a bulb check and go back off. How can you tell the grid heater pull the battery voltage way down where the bulb check doesn't.

Here is my $5 to $10 buck fix... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod

All right here http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

Still rather wide pressure fall...

Yeah it is a lot of work to just change the tappet cover gasket.

Either... As long as I could inspect the vehicle. Error codes, fuel pressure, check the turbo for dirt or compressor rubbing, front-end for play, etc.

Most people consider Gowshift a low quality company for gauges. But I think most of that is caused by improper installation of the gauges and senders.

Let put to you this way with my truck as is I would sell it for $8,000... (No I'm not selling my truck but using it as a point reference) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/25-2002-dodge-ram-2500

Very educational to find out most shop are NOT testing diodes and just checking for DC output.

When you log in you MUST hit the Remember Me check box because after a period of time the cookie is dumped and you no longer logged in.

Mine hooked directly to the stock 3" pipe without changing. Mine was design for the stock OE exhaust as for the Banks I'm not sure I would take the down pipe to be sure.

Sorry... It comes out on the tappet cover near the starter.

Should look something like a older 12V.

My truck is just like the 3rd gens now. Change the oil and it black in the first start. I gave up worrying about the color of the oil. As long as the debris levels are low enough for the filters to handle everything should be good. But still interested in what happens in your study...

I don't see any reason why not. If it fit you price range and the owner is going to stand behind his offer then go for it.

Sounds like you got a laundry list of thing to take care of.Personally I would get the gauges install first thing. ISSpro and mechanical gauges are my preference.As for the trailer brake controller most like Prodigy III bit spendy but a very good controller. I've got a Prodigy II and it just as good as the Prodigy III.ScanGauge II is a wonderful tool for getting the most from the MPG bracket once you get it all setup and calibrated.As for the drive door it might be a bad pin switch? Map light there is a rebuild proces over on CumminsForum.com on how to do it will RadioShack parts. I see if I can find it for you.Rear quad door is most likely a pull rod are damaged and need new clips. If one if failing you might consider doing the other as well.

BHAF article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter As for how much value? Well K&N didn't add any value that for sure as for damages the only way to tell is do a compression test but I doubt the owner will go for that.

Typically I normally see them full but hear of them being down a touch too. Might have something to do with the filter and the design of the valve that some have. Some have a rubber flap that prevent drain back.

So you already got the TSB done? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

Here is a write up of the BHAF... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter Common appearance of a K&N filter truck. You can see where the compressor wheel is making contact with the housing in this picture and is a bad sign for the turbo. Remember all this dirt and junk is imbalance the turbo and being sucked into the engine. Here is a turbo with a proper paper filter no dirt.

I ran over to NADA quick and did a basic look up on it and clean value is about $12,800.

Welcome to the family...