Mopar1973Man

Actually only a 3/4" NPT plug is the boost the 1/2" is coolant.

You might search a while for the diaphragm. It's a tough part to find around here in Idaho. But he's right the whole AFC housing is based oon boost pressure and the ability of pushing that pin down inside the pump. You could loosen the starwheel to allow fuel on earlier. But double check all the boost parts for damage wear or sticking.

Yes they do produce a fancy chainsaw file and guide system that uses 2 files and files bottom the cutter and the rake at the same time giving a perfect chain.

I know I not the type to start gov't threads but when MoparMom popped open that video from one of her sites and I heard that I just about lost it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Amendment_to_the_United_States_Constitution Like another person said the day they take the right away to bear arms will be the day he turns into a criminal. Which I totally agree. Because once you remove the weapons from the general public it will be only the criminals that will be armed and dangerous.

That little thingy your taking about is called the rake.

I would still back track the wiring and double check connectors for corrosion or loose connectors. Even though its random I would still look into it.

Nothing at all. Soft brass is self sealing if tighten properly. As for the rest of the fuel system JIC / Pushloc's are self sealing too.

Possibly a pump timing issues? If its a bit to retarded it would be lacking in power too.

New Jersey giving $1000 dollar reward to turn people with firearms. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_rY8ZUbrnU I believe in the 2nd Admendment Right I Open Carry and Conceal Carry.

CCD Network problems. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus As the CCD network is failing the commnunication will other devices fail too. Soo like RPM data for the PCM to tell the alternator to charger or not (your flickering lights).

My 5.9L Dodge Ram 1500 (V8) had a blown intake gasket on the plenum it was also sucking in engine oil and air from the cam valley. It was a afternoon project to pull the nose of the engine apart to change the gaskets but no more issues with misfire codes.

Air leaks are a tough one to spot most times out of ten. I tend to stay away from teflon tapes and thread sealants though.

If you want to extend it to the max. Then get a exhaust brake and get 10x as much brake pad life.

I'm no exception to the rule I'm in the frozen northern states too with lots of salt, mag-cloride, and other road chemicals too. Yes I'll tend to agree I tend to grab the ol' Anti-seize bottle more than the tbe of Loctite.

Nothing fancy here. I do everything by hand checking the angles, etc.

Something to add while I was digging around Loctite site. Any of the loctite colors (Red, blue, green) are all thread protectant from the elements like rusting and corrosion too. So thinking of the Anti-Seize vs. Loctite they both are going to protect the threads from corrosion and rust. But one is going to lock the fastener together to prevent vibration from loosen then fastener when anti-seize might not work well in a vibration application.

Here is the video. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEfVU5KhoBc Being you asked... POOF! Upgraded...

Sthl 046 Magnum here... Curve cutting can be a few things. [*]Pulling hard on one side of the handle bar. [*]Dull chain on one side. [*]Worn bar where the chain can rock back and forth. My Saw is close to 20 years old with the orignal factory spark plug and air filter yet. Every year this saw has to cut at least 9-12 cords of wood. No idle issues or starting issues. Usually fires off on the 2nd or 3rd pull with the choke. Stumbles out then click high idle yank again. She lit and ready for work. Just got back from this spot again 2 days ago with a load very much like this one... Screamin' Beaver is back at it again.

Cheaper the better. The more money or expensive the more metallics they add to the pads or shoes. I buy the absolute cheapest. I don't get wrapped up in hype of brand names or anything. I look at this way Dodge got the lowest bidder tof brake pads who ever they were and mine lasted 185K miles with a exhaust brake. Only needed a light rotor turn to bring them back to true. So around 370K miles I'll do it again.

Replacing injectors is the easiest but got the highest price, when pulling and cleaning is the cheaper option. With those kind of miles in might be a good idea to just replace.

Everything you need is right here. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=29

Good to hear you got it out. I heard of thing like that happening. Most grab it with channel locks and lightly pull and twist.

Should be the trailer fuse under the hood in the PDC (Power Distribution Center)

Good reason I do all my own work on my truck and vehicles. Also I don't care if there is a insurance laws about me being in the work area of a shop. I'm always out with my truck. Typically the only shop I go to is get tires done. Even then I watch my truck closely. I know the owner of the shop but I don't know his crew.

Check for vacuum leaks. If there is a vacuum port near the troubled cylinder the lean mixture will act like a misfire. I had this same problem on MoparMom's 1996 Dodge Ram with a P0306 code well changed the plugs, wires, injector (#6), still had it. But come to find a hairline crank on a vacuum line now its all gone.