Mopar1973Man

No you can't unplug it because then that axle has 0 MPH speed and ABS is lit. The only way to test it with a DRBIII tool from the dealer or a very expensive Snap On tool that might be able to see wheel speed. Even then you might find the wrong speed sensor and replace it and then find out the new one is still offset from the other good one still tripping the ABS light. Hence why I suggest replacing both at the same time. As for prices RockAuto.com has then in stock but still $89 and $112 for left and right...

Vibration? Loose wire connector?

Chris (my buddy) pick up mine be mistake and said WOW! That thing sure cuts nice. My saw is most likely about 18 years old now and never had the spark plug changed and never had the air filter changed (just cleaned and re-oiled). Sthl 046 Magnum... Sitting by this monster Red Fir Tree.I've cut some seriously big trees...Yes all I burn is soft wood here. There is lots of it. (Pine, Red Fir, White Fir, Tamarack, Spruce, Lodge Pole, etc.)If everything comes together this weekend I'll take my video camera up and get some video of the crew and the beavers at work.

Got you picture of 200,006 now...

Fire dead trees... White Fir, Alpine Fir, Red Fir, Spruce, etc...Working the same area now 5 years since the fire... Still plenty here...

Ha! Finally gone and got a load of wood with a friend yesterday... I wish I would of brought my camera up in the woods!

199,995 on the clock... Go baby Go!

There is other weather factor that play a roll. Did you have a tail wind that day? Like towing 65 MPH with a 10 MPH tailwind will be like towing at 55 MPH. Maybe this is why you didn't see a change. I've seen some really odd and unusual MPG numbers going and coming from places then realize there is weather factors to consider. Like one morning drive to New Meadows, ID at 48*F netted me lower MPGs than going the same day in the afternoon at 95*F. The warmer weather netted me higher MPG's.So I see days where MPG are lower because of wind and temperature and other days are higher. So don't base your finding on only one trip do it for a few years then base it you find there is a considerable difference.Like for me its 241 miles round trip to Ontario OR to do a bit a of shopping...241 Miles / 55 MPH = 4.3 Hours (4 Hours 18 Minutes) 241 Miles / 65 MPH = 3.7 Hours (3 Hours 42 Minutes)4.3 Hours - 3.7 Hours = 0.6 Hours (36 minutes difference)So I'll I got to do is leave 36 minutes earlier... (No big deal).But now going slow I net better MPG's and typical save $15 bucks going slower.

Double check the fuse with a DVM or Ohm meter and be sure the fuse didn't crack. It will appear fine but the fuse will be cracked and no connection. As for the Dodge FSM the software is there for the decompressing the RAR files. (Software folder)

I would verify it from the Dodge FSM stand point and see if there is a voltage setting for idle position. Then get it to that point and go from there. Also It seems like Cummins engine in the early years didn't hold to any common standards. Like the MAP sensors on the 98.5 to 02 are mis-reported and skewed badly. But get to 2003 and up its reports fine. It like when they got to CR engine they final figure out a OBDII standard.

I'll keep that in mind... Thank you for the find...

I live in the dust and dirt and still getting a long distance from a BHAF... I'm now on my second filter and installed my first back at 50K miles and ran it till 185K miles... I love paper element filters!

Scangauge II shows percentage of throttle and doesn't always show 0 when at idle. Like on the 1996 Dodge Ram it shows 13 at idle and on my 2002 Dodge Ram it shows 0 at idle.

P1689 code is a communication problem or wiring problem typically... But I would still get that gauge hooked up and installed so you can verify it not a fuel issue causing excess heat damage.

Well it going to happen soon... I'm getting plans put together with 2 other families to do a mass firewood cutting weekend. Lots of cutting and lots of hauling.

Another trick... Learn to drive like there is no brake pedal. Seriously. Every time you use the brake you converting energy into heat on the brakes. Best to get the most roll out of everything you do before using the brakes. I drive twisty canyon roads without using my brakes I might be 5-10 MPH below the speed limit but I'm not slowing down to get around a corner and stomping on the throttle either. Like climbing up and down grades I know I lose quite a bit of MPG climbing so I take my time slow and easy then on the way home I try to coast as much as possible because the more you do the more the VP44 is shut down and not pumping fuel! Now I also just confirmed the outside temperature makes a huge change in MPG's. Like this morning I had to drive to New Meadows, ID to meet some people well with 48-52*F weather I lost 2-3 MPG over the entire trip (20 MPG from what I remember from this morning). I know in the heat of the day at 100-110*F I can hit 23-24 MPG without any problem.

With all the debris I drive over I've never broke a back up light yet.

Ummm...Hate to rub in it... But the last time out with my travel trailer I got 14.1 MPG...I normally range just above 20 MPG... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

Just remember six CR injectors are worth the same as three VP44 injection pumps. The only weakness CR engine have are the injectors hanging up and spraying down the cylinder walls with fuel till it has some serious blow by. If you do buy a CR truck make sure to beef up the fuel filters and run good quality diesel fuel. Avoid using any fuel additives with CR's if you can unless its a high quality fuel lubricant or cycle oil (200:1 Ratio).

A post I made over on CF.com... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4290&d=1343350723 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4291&d=1343350734 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4292&d=1343350748 I get up earlier and leave... 241 Miles / 55 MPH = 4.3 Hours 241 Miles / 65 MPH = 3.7 Hours 4.3 Hour - 3.7 Hour = 0.6 Hours (36 minutes difference) But in just reducing my speed I now gain from old 16-17 MPG to 23-24 MPG. 241 Miles / 17 MPG = 14.1 Gallons * $3.759 = $53.00 241 Miles / 24 MPG = 10.0 Gallons * $3.759 = $37.59 $53.00 - 37.59 = $15.41 Savings... 24 MPG * 35 Gallons = 840 Miles on a tank 17 MPG * 35 Gallons = 595 Miles on a tank... Just for fun... I live 20 miles from New Meadows, ID proper. Lets say I got to drive to work every day in New Meadows, ID 20 Miles / 55 MPH = 0.36 Hours (21.6 Mintues) 20 Miles / 65 MPH = 0.30 Hours (18 Minutes) A whole 3.6 minutes difference and I can save fuel and money... You'd have to be nuts not to do it... Also there is no speed limit in my area above 65 MPH. Typically highway speed out here is 45 MPH to 65 MPH. The only place above that is the interstates and I avoid them like the plague. Interstates are plan wasteful. So what's there hurry about? I rather get up a few minutes earlier to save $15 bucks every day...

I'm also full 1/2" from tank to VP44 but I'm also a newer style filter can. I only see 2-3 PSI fall with this setup even with a filter inside the can.

What you spend one 1 set of injectors I can buy enough injection pumps to travel 400,000 to 600,000 miles. (2-3 VP44's) (Personal opinion) One of the main reason I will not upgrade trucks... In my mind we've come around a full loop a second time. Back in the days of muscle cars and big blocks we did the same them from the 60's to the 80's. Making massive HP/TQ for the time and them by the 70's EPA/CARB stepped in and turned everything into a turd with all the smog garbage. So here we are with the diesel truck doing the same thing. So like my Charger I'll hold out with my 2002 till something comes my way that I consider worth buying and won't empty my savings account to change injectors or some other major part. Let's say right now I could swallow a VP44 replacement if need be but replacing injectors in a Common Rail I'd end up selling the truck.

Alright I'll fix you...

I thought the same thing till someone corrected me too... The 6.7L was introduced in the 3rd gen body and then the 4th gen came out in 2010... Kind of like some people think the 94-98 is 2nd gen and 98.5-02 is 3rd gen because of the fuel system change... :duh:Common mistake...As for the truck Dobbienut... Do the deletes (DPF and EGR), change the cam (smog cam), and get a Smarty to tune up the ECM. Then you'll be all set up. Just stay after the injectors and don't let it wipe out a cylinder. Injectors are expensive so I highly suggest you invest in a killer fuel system (extra filters!).

I'll get a picture in the morning... Geez... :duh:There is 3 screamin' beavers on the floor of my shop right now...