Mopar1973Man

I know I'm not a 3rd Gen but even my 2nd Gen with 3" exhaust that is straight piped I still pulling good MPG's. Speed is the biggest killer of MPG's (55-60 MPH is best) Tires is the second biggest killer of MPG's (Smaller are better)

I use a small piece of angle iron to mount right to the rear diff cover...

I hate to say it but I've got CajFynn's old RV275's and they have over 400K miles on them. All Ive done is clean them up and re-installed. As you've seen from my other post my MPG's are good and high.I'll have to dig up a old post about using a digital calliper on them and measured all the parts for fit.I would look toward drag being more of a issue like your brake calliper etc.Possibly a VP44 getting weak in timing?

Don't quote me but it had enough to directly power the vacuum solenoid on 12V. I don't know of any relay in my setup. I would hop over to Caspers Electronics and given them a call. They would be able to tell from looking at a picture of the plug and how it comes apart.

I thought I had the install manual but I don't. What you do is remove the ECM plug and there is a rubber plug in one of the pins that you remove then insert the EB lead into the ECM plug and then plug the ECM plug back into the ECM. Like I said it hooks directly with the ECM. Jocbos Brake use to carry the install manuals online in PDF form but they been removed the last I known of it.

Jacobs brake plugs into the ECM for its trigger signal. It give 2-3 second delay from the time you release the throttle till the time it arms the exhaust brake allowing the driver enough time to shift without the exhaust brake popping on instant every time you release the throttle.No mechanical triggers...No APPS wiring...Just simple...

Don't quote me for the exact number but the old school filter can is about 35 GPH vs 75 GPH for the new style drop in. This of course is number for stock fuel system and stock plumbing.

Welcome to the family and thank you for share different ideas!

From 55 MPH to 65 MPH the wind drag doubles...From 65 MPH to 75 MPH the wind drag doubles again or 4 times as much as 55 MPH.You get the picture the wind drag is exponential so the faster you drive the worse the drag becomes QUICKLY!.

Over five thousand years ago, Moses said to the children of Israel, "Pick up your shovels, mount your asses and camels and I will lead you to the Promised Land."Nearly 75 Years Ago, (when Welfare was introduced) Roosevelt said, "Lay down your shovels, sit on your asses, and light up a Camel, this is the Promised Land."Today, Congress has stolen your shovel, taxed your asses, raised the price of Camels and mortgaged the Promised Land!I was so depressed last night thinking about Health Care Plans, the economy, the wars, lost jobs, savings, Social Security, retirement funds, etc.... I called a Suicide Hotline.I had to press 1 for English.I was connected to a call center in Pakistan. I told them I was suicidal. They got excited and asked if I could drive a truck...Folks, we're screwed...(Anonymous email sent to me)

Here is what Dripley is talking about... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

Could you throw a link to this please?

Quick bit of math...34 Gallons x 128 = 4,352 ozs of fuel4,352 / 200 Ratio = 21.7 Ozs of OilSo this would be first dose... All following doses would be change the gallons to the amount pumped and it will figure out the oil amount...For example:14.783 Gallons x 128 = 1,892 Ozs of fuel1,892 / 200 = 9.4 Ozs of oil.Simple right?

This why I sunk my teeth into this one and held on for the ride. I'm tired of all the goofy and dumb ideas of chopping wiring, adding filters, etc. for a problem that should be corrected and not band-aided.So far I've mastered the VP44...So onward to the Tq Conv lock up issues!

As long as its between 4.5 and 5.5 then the go to next step... They want to verify you getting +5V signal to the APPS sensor nothing more...

Well as for noise and such if there is fluid in any of the cases check it closely for metalic debris (glitter). This will give the clue of what is going on. Debris or black graphite is a bad sign. :rolleyes:With all bearing it best to pull it out of place to check it. Like with U-joints pull the shaft out and move it in all direction feeling for binding or gritty feeling. Same with the center support bearing twist feel for loosen and binding.If the trans in neutral coasting does it continue or change?How about if you get it in to neutral of the transfer case?

Welcome to the family...First off the S&B cold air becareful with those kind of filters it doesn't take long for the media to wear out and be passing dust into the engine. If wash the wrong way you can be placing dust and dirt on the inside so when it dries the engine inhales it. As for fuel additive the only additive I use is 2 cycle oil nothing else. Cetane booster tend to reduce BTU content and MPG's. Injector cleaners tend to damage the injectors and pumps. But with CR engine it 200:1 ratio not 128:1. I would highly suggest you upgrade fuel filter to protect the injectors from damage.The biggest thing to improve MPG is to slow down! The second one is reduce your rotational mass/rolling resistance in other words use smaller tires with a narrow footprint.

Ok... Power is supplied from the RED heavy gauge wire for the trailer plug. (40A) Ran through a relay and triggered by the exist backup lights. So normal reverse light come on automatically. As for in the cab I have a over ride switch in the cab which allows me to flip on forcably and light up the ground and hitch in the dark... Full write up here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/76-backup-lights

I've got the Jacobs Exhaust brake on my truck which accepts the 3" stock down pipe. Also the EB is ran off of vacuum using a solenoid valve to control vacuum. As for 4" exhaust I've not found a reason to upgrade to 4' pipe yet. I'm getting excellent MPGs roughly 22-23 MPG... EGT's are very controllable with my Edge Comp and RV275 injectors so why mess with it.

That's just wrong...

True the 12V (2nd Gens) where awesome truck and awesome MPG's but that was all design to fit together and work together. But now take old technology and put on new technology engine and expect the same outcome. It will never happen. Way too many variable to get that kind of MPG out of Frankenstein... Like me in stead of Ppumping the truck I learn how to get close to what you guys have in 12V... Not exactly 27 MPG but close to 24 MPG for a truck that weight another 1,000 pound more than early second gen I say not bad..

Alternator diodes. Like I just got off the phone last night with Chad (another member here) talk to him about his alternator and TQ conv and surging problem. So far what is happening is new alternator fixes the problem but in about 4-5 days the problem comes back. But now while the problem is occuring the AC voltage is jumping as high as 53 VAC but VDC is holding steady at ~14.x volts. But now take the alternator fuse out the problems are gone. So now we are trying to figure out what is causing alternator failures that are burning up the diodes. The only thing that comes to mine is the grid heater hanging up longer that it should putting alot of stress on the diodes. (Shoot from the hip and this unproven as of yet). Chad promised that as soon as he figures it out he's going to post his videos and testing results with us...

Never could understand the desire for Ppump conversion on every truck. There is so much drivablity with CR fuel system vs. static timing P7100 pump. Then like Rogan points out all the electronics that need to dealt with somehow. I say it best to look forwards and learn how to better what you got than trying to go backward in time retrofitting older fuel system parts to a newer engine.

Hmmm... Need something to break away from stock timing... Get the timing curve more aggressive like a programmer. But I don't think they produces programmers for those little cars?? (Or did they?)