Mopar1973Man

Don't that suck... :duh:I get the same thing by spring time here a yard full of turkeys and deer...

Make sure you windows regulator arms are still lubed up and not jaming up...

Check the green wire between the alternator and the PCM for shorts to ground. If this wire shorts to ground the alternator will run wild at max voltage...

In my old 1972 Dodge PowerWagon I had a 2 ball and a 8 ball... The truck was blue so now you know why the 2 ball...

Ok... Let me let you in a secret... I live in the middle of nowhere Idaho. I travel great distances just for basic things like groceries is a 70 mile round trip. Auto part store is 104 miles round trip. WalMart is worse at 350 miles round trip.There is 3 thing the VP44 need to run a long happy life won't needing to pack around spare any thing...1. Good fuel pressure and volume. You fuel pressure should always be 14-20 PSI with only a 2-3 PSI fall from idle to WOT at highway speed.2. Good fuel filters. You stock filter can is OK if you use a high quality filter. Should try to get below 10 micron. AH64ID is the filter guru of the site.3. Lubricity. Bosch design the pump around <450 HFRR lubrcity and today's fuel is ~520 HFRR so the higher the HFRR number the less lubricity and more wear occurs. My VP44 has performed remarkably well I've got a AirDog 150 with 2 micron filters and 128:1 shot of 2 cycle oil in the fuel. I'm coming up on 150K on the clock for the VP44 and the truck is coming up on 200K miles.Vp44 fuel system are rather good performing don't fail if you understand the weakness of them. Like you mention the wanting the Ppump for it being fully mechanical. Well it got few weak points too like the mechanical lift pump is not efficent at high RPM's it start losing volume. The list go es on too...

Ahhh... Understand... You going to be in direct control of the exhaust brake. (Suggestion) You could hook it up on a keyed power lead then not have to worry about the position of the switch then...

I used a piece of angle aluminum and drill 2 holes and used a U bolt to fasten to the stick then picked out a nice Blue LED rocker. The LED blew out in a few second after hooking up. There is a hell of a surge from the vacuum solenoid which blows out normal bulbs or LEDs...I like the rocker because I can sweep my thumb back and forth to control the jake instead of push/pull.

I don't see any reason for aftermarket exhaust manifold till you making big power or this going to track runner truck where its either WOT or idle...

Just for the p-pump and the misc part and high pressure lines it roughly $3,500... http://www.alligatorperformance.com/industrial-injection-p7100-stock-fuel-pump-fits-96985-dodge-cummins-p-5936.html http://www.alligatorperformance.com/industrial-injections-iisss24vppcov-ppump-conversion-98502-dodge-valve-cummins-p-4710.html Personally I would learn how to maintain the VP44 it much cheaper...

Passenger side of the trans hump is the stepper motor for the blend door... Turn the ignition to ON and not start the engine. Then turn the temp knob left to right and watch the shaft.

The only way to be sure is get a hold of a dealer and have them drop there DRBIII tool on there and run a diagnostic on it. That will hurt for at least a shop hour at the dealer... (~$100)

The turbo on the left sure looks like a HY35 (your old one). But the one on the right sure is a HX35...So this will be a upgrade for you... 9cm2 to 12cm2 exhaust housing!

Short clip of heading towards New Meadows yesterday...

Last that I've heard like 23-24 MPG... Empty of course...

Dang children... Being :moon:and need there ...

I tried a can as suggest by one of our vendors during my injector problems. Well I will say it does a wonderful job of masking the actual problem. The misfire came back as soon as the seafoam was consumed. As for cleaning the injectors never happened. As for reomving the injectors and soaking them in straight solvent... Never changed a thing... You literially have to scrub each and every piece of the injector to clean it. I will say it again... "There is no cure in a can!"

Common problems with Edge EZ is that its mounted under the hood it get hot and cold. Then the case isn't sealed very good and I've several get water inside and corrode the circuit board...Edge Comp is mounted in the cab... No issues here...

Well after doing the plenum gaket and fixing some odds and ends so far I'm looking like I can reach 16-17 MPG on the ScanGauge II but with the weather being foul, cold, windy (head wind), etc. I only got 15 as of yesterday which I'm not crying about actually I'm quite please with it after looking back at some of the fuel history and some being as low as 10-11 MPG...

I said "Cummins ISB Engine" not the Dodge Truck... We all know the body would never hold up to that kind of weight. But the engine would...

Don't give me that much credit...

Even pulling a 8K trailer in 110*F outside temps with a 190*F thermostat wasn't bad at all the temp got up to 205*F... No big deal here...

Might post up in the vendors area too maybe someone here has a exhaust housing for HX35.

Yes... As in like the axle dana might of rated the axle for graeater limits... Like I can tell you that the Cummins ISB engine is rated for vehicle weight of 50K pounds...

Well I got some more to report... I packed up today and headed for Grangeville, ID to pick up engine oil, ATF, gear lube, etc. I had the ScanGauge II hooked up and monitored everything closly as I drove. From watching my instant MPG's I can hold about 16-17 MPG most of the time. By the time I was heading home I was bucking a mild head wind which kept me from gaining more on the way home so I got 15 MPG by the time I got home which isn't too bad for a poor weather day.

No. Because it doesn't do anything other than raise cetane levels and reduce the BTU's.It doesn't clean injectors and it doesn't improve fuel mileage so there is no use in using a product that is going to decrease performance and not clean injectors. The other problem is it does contains alcohol not good for the injection pumps and seals.