Mopar1973Man

Here is my setup...Take notice the gap to the bottom of the tank is only the thickeness of a quarter (coin). Then take notice the tip is cut flat not at a angle. Then there is is only small 1/16" notches added to the tip. I can get below 1/8 of tank with out thinking most times. But if I launch hard of course Mother Nature is going to pull the fuel rearward and the the possibly of sucking air does happen but it all depends on hard your stomping on it... In the video watch on the return trip I get on it pretty hard and sloosh the fuel in the tank (1/4 of fuel). This is what you get... But I've ran plenty of times below the ...

I don't measure absolutlely perfect 1 oz to 1 gallon but I do get it close to being that...

I didn't want to steal alll your thunder... :lol:1 cord of dry firewood is typically 2,500 to 2,800 pounds being thats closer to 1.5 cords that makes it 3,750 to 4,200 pounds roughly in the bed. I would love to have a local scale... I know I would be shocked...

Now that Pepsi got you going down this road how about check for error codes... I wonder if the famous P0216 code is there... Being the white smoke and P0216 usually go hand in hand...

As for what oil to use its just plain ol' engine oil 15w-40... As for what most likely killed them is the purple cleaner and then when you hosed them off you most likely forced the cleaner into the cells or the cooler water created a mild vacuum on the battery and drew it in. Batteries don't like the electrolyte being contaminated with other chemicals. Then with the red tops or any sealed batteries in time they loose there water content from the cells and start to dry out. If you switch back over to a typical wet cell battery and keep after it you be right back to 5-10 year life span again.

With that said... Firewood load of 2011 (Coldsprings Mountain) http://maps.google.com/maps?q=45.422793,-116.478081&num=1&t=h&vpsrc=0&z=12

D'Oh! Feed cable voltage drop testing...

110K miles and still rolling with 2 cycle oil mixed at 128:1 ratio... No problems to report.

Yeah I know its a extreme side of the biodiesel story I know those kind of failure are rare for station bought biodiesel but as for homebrew diesel its still very possible to opps on.. So I typical post up the thread to let people know it not something to take lightly about. If you going to make your own biodiesel make sure to get a game plan and stick to it don't cut corners on your production. Maybe I mis-understood you orignal post as for producing your own Biodiesel. :shrug:But as for purchasing B2 or B5 thats fine and will have little to no problems with it.

ISX does have a valid point. But You know CF for the lazyness they have over there... (Use The search function) But I'm having a nice chuckle from the turbo delete... Personally I stay over my side of the fence and look for MPG and Milestones... I typically don't get into flaming threads...

Ok... Now then start looking at doing a voltage drop test...

I'm still laughing my arse off about a kid over at CF.com that is asking to put a smoke switch on his Cummins at the same time he's going to install a P-pump conversion... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/460623-smoke-switch-24v.html Someone replied with...

Really...???

Simple then get a ScanGauge II then you can see the MPG's without filling up all the time... Trust me at $4.229 a gallon for diesel locally I don't even want to think of the $150 bill to fill from empty... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

ECM... Still hooked to the ECM for trigger on and off but the pump power is in the PDC box not the batteries... True the volt drop with pull down all accessiores. You might have the batteries load tested just to verify they are good. Maybe why I don't see like many others is because my electrical system and batteries have always been kept up... Here is my article on my fresh batteries...

Hitch and load at 16,080# I run wide open in the Edge Comp (5x5) don't look back just keep rollin' !!!

If its a brass or steel fitting you can solder wire right to the fitting but make sure to zip tie the wire too the wire will eventually break free because the solder makes it brittle.

Or the other long shot and take to the dealer with the high idle TSB...

I'm a clever man... I got him to ask the question... Here is a few article... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2158-Biofuels-emit-400-percent-more-CO2-than-regular-fuels?highlight=biodiesel http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/93-Bio-Diesel-and-the-effects?highlight=biodiesel

Correct... You would have ot find away to gain control of the valve train and hold the exhaust valve open during compression stroke.

Your fine where you at... :thumbup2:As for biodiesel I'm a bit leary of it...

Ok... The chat room is installed and rather raw at the moment I think you guys can't sneak into it if you wish...Under the Mopar Forum Tab go to Community Drop down and select Flashchat...

:lmao:Very Funny Dave... No what it is that most of the flashchat programs where design for the older vBulletin 3.8.x software and I'm now up to 4.1.8 and going forward. Well the guy that produced the software seems to dropped off the planet and hasn't really updated the software since 2010. :banghead:So I'm digging for answer why I'm getting error during the install and why the chat program isn't hooking to vB4 software...

Well I'm running into snags... I trying to figure out the errors in the software mis-behaving... :banghead:

I'm tied to the power lead in the PDC box for my AirDog and the ground wire to the body... Nothing tied directly to the battery.