Mopar1973Man

Well I'm here but hiding in the back room of the server writing caching scripts... The best I can say is the master ground on the driver side feeds the ECM. So pull the ECM connector and the Crank sensor connector and check ground lead and the 5V wires for OHM's anything over 5 ohms is a fail. You had meantion the offset of ground voltage anf the 0.2 or greater is a fail so back track the grounds. ECM ground is feed by the G115 lead back to the driver side cable.

Ebay seems to have bunch now and then...

Rogan I think you've been on the XBox too long last night...

Most all low fuel pressure lights like even the Cummins one doesn't trip till 3.5 PSI... Even most of the aftermarket don't trip till 5 PSI which is still too low... If your going to build a low pressure setup find a Hobbs Switch that is adjust able and set it for 8-9 PSI for trip... Snagged this pic from another site but the principal is the same just use a adjustable Hobbs switch and adjust it for your low point 8-9 PSI and your good.

Come north it gets better... $4.159 in New Meadows as of 3/10/11

Staratapore filters actually have to water separating media within. But I can't speak for the other filters... Like Wix and NAPA both are just paper elements and can't separate water from the fuel it allows it to pass.

Hmmm... Unplug the ECM and the Crank sensor plug and test the wiring between the two plugs should be 5 ohms or less. Double check the connector too be sure the contacts inside are not all wore out and getting a good grip on the pins of the crank sensor. Remember without the crank sensor showing RPM's there is no alternator charge...

Well I would say double check the line make sure its not cracked or damaged. Then check the parts that its screwing into and make sure the holes are clean and the body is not cracked. I would try again with a fresh o-ring and just seat the nuts and lightly torque them.

Let me think some more...

Take your pick depending on temp... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUYO-lJe36w

Nope... Cheaper yet... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm Or the marine version (expensive) http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhafm.htm

Is there debris in the holes? Is the tube deformed? Are you over-tightening the nuts?

Nice...

Thanks... I was trying to work from memory...

Talk to GuessWho512 he's got a Elm scantool...

Now... Take care of you new heart...

That's why I'm asking as many people to try this mod out and see... I'm wondering if the 2.2K ohm does good for everyone or maybe a different climate requires something else... I don't know... But I would say any value that you would normally see during your high MPG numbers would be a good place to start...

Good lord pick on the new guy... Seem like we are swapping members back and forth between ITD.com and here...

Hmmm... Sorry no XBox here... I might have to hook you up with a friend in New Meadows thats a big battlefield player... But I understand the wind down time... Sometimes I fire up Dragon's Age and get into the roll playing...

Fuel heater kicks in at 60*F and heats till 70*F or so. This is NOT ECM controlled... Air in the diesel is bad because air is compressable. Just like your brakes on your truck if you have air in the brakes the pedal is mushy. Well now same thing on injection pumps. Injection pump is like you master cylinder and the air in the fuel is just like air in the brakes so it takes more force of the injection pump to pop the injectors hence the timing is LATE and the power is reduced. Good fuel pressure is between 14-20 PSI. This will hold the overflow valve open and keep the vP44 electronics cool and the pump happy. Below 14 PSI the overflow valve starts closing and is completely closed by 10 PSI now you extra cooling and lubing is SHUT DOWN... Hence why the pressure gauge is marked in yellow 10-12 PSI... Same sense of running these engines low in oil pressure the engine will still run fine at 10 PSI of oil pressure but don't expect the engine to last long. Just like the injection pump if the fuel pressure low then wear and damage will occur. Remember the only lubricant the VP44 sees is the fuel itself so if you low on pressure you loooking at doing damage.

Ok... I got tidbits for you here... I got called out fo fix a 1991 Ford F150 that been sitting for several years. Battery was good and placed a battery charger on it. No fuel and found out someone had pulled the dual tank module under the dash. Using a paper clip I bridge between the +12V and the front tank pump. Now have fuel in the rail. But only firing on 1 cylinder... We spent over 2 hours cleaning fouled plugs and still only firing on 1 cylinder. Problem... The rotor had burned a hole straight through to the shaft. So for testing purpose I cut up a old water bottle making a small disc and packed a dry paper towel on top. Bam! It fired up and ran for a short period till it found a way around the paper and plastic... So what I'm getting at is look REALLY close at all ignition parts make sure they are clean! Look for burns or carbon tracks that could cause problems. I've seen old school Chevy HEI coils crack and leak spark...

I like the relay idea... just I know I got to get down to Boise, ID to find anything like that though... :banghead:

I was hoping to see CajFlynn post up some more trailer pics too here...

Very interesting to say the least...

What I look at is the fact of how the price of crude oil will effect everyone. I know there is a political ties here (which I will not get into) but the fact is at least the information is there for anyone to read and they can plan accordly for increase of prices in fuel. Like myself I'm a long ways from any kind of big city or supplies as this will have a direct impact on my plans of travel this year.