Mopar1973Man

Did you clear the codes after fixing the problem (replacing the APPS sensor)? Yes you got to hook up a code reader and reset all the codes after a repair. Now disconnecting the battery will not clear the codes. But thinking of that did you re-calibrate the new APPS sensor after installing? Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes then hook back up. Turn the key to ON (without starting) push the throttle down slowly and and let it up slowly then shut the key off... Calibrated...

Well pull up a chair grab a beverage and start reading and asking questions... If not then catch us on tuesdays and thurdays we'll be on the live chat...

Couple of short coming though... [*]Limited to 65 HP [*]Must pull over and stop the truck to adjust/reprogram [*]Reads only error codes - No live data from the ECM/PCM

Mine are a mixed bag too... So I wouldn't worry... The ones hold oil I normally dip my finger in to get lube for the O-rings on the injectors...

As you can see the poke fun at each other too... (Children behave yourself...) But I know that's all good...

Done..

Nice and quiet Christmas here... Just MoparMom, Diesel (Dog) and Myself...

I've still got my stock fuel filter in place with my AirDog... Even with a stock filter in the can... Funny part the stock filter just seems to take so long to get dirty now...

Well if whitelightning is post that then the competition is Scangauge II... Can be found at most Autozone part sotres as well... Or www.scangauge.com

Welcome to the group and Merry christmas to you as well... did we get some toyz for the truck this year? Hmmm?

At the empty mark I got roughly 4-5 gallons left...

This is surprising not to see someone jump in and tackle a wiring project... As for the wiring its here... /downloads.php?do=file&id=161">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=161 turn to page 12 and the turn signals are there...

Being the sender isn't mounted to steel plumbing and is on a rubber hose it sound like a poer ground of the sender or gauge. If not then its a bad sender. Rare but happens lift pump having issues with grid heater hitting? Might check with a mechanical gauge and rule it out...

It's weird... Sometime there is grid heaters and other times there isn't... Like bone cold start of 25*F ECT and 132*F IAT there is no pre-heat grid because the wait to start goes off quick and no grid relay click. now starts roughly a bit of idling and smoothes right out. Still no post grid heat. Now I ran to town the other day and came back left the truck sit outside and it cooled a bit 120*F ECT and still the 132*F and when I started it the grid heaters started to cycle... Hua? So now I'm stumped...

Is your needle valve open too far? If setup wrong it will wipe out a sender quick... If done right the gauge will last for years... Like my DiPricol gauge is over 7 years old now...

If its a electric gauge I would check with a mechanical gauge... You mention a snubber are you using a fixed snubber or a needle valve?

As for toe adjustments I've taken 2 straight 2x4x8 and measure out center at 4 foot and strapped then to the wheels and measured toe on the front and back tips of the boards and adjusted as close to the same measurement on both. This will work in a pinch but I still would suggest you put it on the rack and adjusted right...

Hmmm... Just to let you know my truck came stock with 265/75 R16... But look at the door sticker... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1281643390 So I question the stickers sometimes...

WTF? No I don't think I qualify for that but I'm sure I can find enough jacks and straps to low the trans down without fighting to bad... I know next time I'm pulling the transfer case off...

Yeah don't you love the "Global Warming"??? Could you pass another stick of wood for the the fire please???

27.6 Gallons at 1/8 of a tank here...

Got lots of tools... Just need a strong back...