Mopar1973Man

Ok... 2 issues [*]As for mounting outside the frame rail be aware of the debris path from the front tires. Is stones and road debris going to hit the pump and filters? If so you might build a shield to protect them. [*]As for tapping the VP44 I would suggest you use a stealth plate to do it. Then you have a weatherproof connection, no damaged wires, and most VP44 vendor won't even know the wire been tapped.

New post is prefered then the people will see it...

Welcome to the group... Well you came to the right place... We we will do our best to try and help you out and solve your problem...

Sounds like you might be calling Timbo... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/timbo-apps.htm

Good one guys...

1-2 hours most...

Here is the Frantz Filter... Where the oil supply comes from... Where the oil is return too. Fresh TP and spent TP Reloaded and ready...

Well with the Frantz Filter it gets oil feed from the oil filter housing and returns it back to the oil cap on the valve cover. So you can remove the setup anytime you wish.

Contact ISX he's the site P-pump guru... He would know exactly what to do to get you to pass then get you tuned up for the long haul...

I'm in the same boat I don't have TV here at all...

Sound like the heater core is failing...

Well the white smoke seems like the timing is too retarded... As for the black you might have to back your placte off and tighten the AFC spring slightly... As for the computer is has ZERO influence on the fueling and timing of the P7100 pump it completely mechanical and requires some adjustment it seems. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/fuel-plate.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/afc.htm

Yes I did because I knew the bold text would come out... This is exactly what I enjoy here in Idaho there is very little traffic on the highways out here so 55 MPH is a very comfortable pace and enojyable experience... Thank You ISX for your words here!

I guess I'm lucky really... Most of the state has 65 MPH roads out here except for the 2 interstates highways I-90 and I-84 which are 75 MPH. Now most of all the roads around me ar 45-55-65 MPH. Then since most of the state is nothing more that windy roads through canyons this give more excuse to cut speed. 55-60 MPH is really comfortable and relaxing. Kind of waiting for ISX to dive in on this thread...

I think a good magnet glue to a PTO cover might be just as a good idea trapping all the metal on the magnet. But the only thing it won't deal with is any almunium or brass...

My top speed is 55 MPH but I'm now getting 23-24 MPG as the weather warms up. Still have my winter front on and my MPG fooler going. In Idaho there is no minimum speed limit so if I wish to drive 55 MPH in a 65 MPH zone no one can say word including law inforcement. The only rule I must adhere to is if I'm holding up more that 3 vehicles I must yeild to traffic flow. From experiementing around here I found the best speed gear combo is 45 MPH in 4th Gear (1:1 Ratio) (~1,900 RPM) with 3.55 gears will get you really close 30 MPG. But that is way to slow for my blood.

I got suckered...

Being that all diesel engine rely on having pressurized fuel to fire the injectors to make them start. So typically I ask for fuel pressure and error codes to see if there is something else wrong. If there is no error codes then all the electrical and electronics are considered good and operational. So that means its all fuel pressure from there on out...

P0500 doesn't need much of a tire spin. Ok to explain the P0500 a bit better it like your sitting in a driveway and waiting for traffic to clear and you get a gap and BAM! Get into the throttle and get rolling. Ok what just happened? There is 2 sensors in the front axle monitoring front tires speed and there is 1 sensor on the top of the rear axle housing. So now when you launch from a stop and the rear tire slip or spin slightly the speed will rise on the rear speed sensor say to 10-20 MPH and the front axle is showing 5-8 MPH... POOF! P0500 error code set. The rest it set is because the ABS computer can't understand how half a truck is going twice as fast as the other half and the brakes are not even pressed?! (Computer goes nuts produces a error code). As for errors reseting themselve its possible to do but the ECM and PCM require 40 warm up cycles to clear 1 code. A warm up cycle is going from a cold engine past 160*F without throwing the same code again. So the next warm up cycle will be at the next cold start from temps below 140*F.

Yeap I'm using push loc's on my AirDog and they are awesome fitting... No you don't need clamps they are solid fittings. But to make lift easier dip the ends of the rubber hose in boiling water and place the fitting on the floor and place the end of the hose to it and lay your body weight into it. POP!

P0234 is a over boost condition (Bully Dog is not boost fooling in stock position)P0522 is a low oil pressure problem (bad sensor maybe)P0500 is a speed sensor error (spin your tires did we???)P1693 Companion code

Even the dodge FSM states that the exhaust gases have to be at least 1,000*F for regen effect to happen for the DPF...

Wild & Free is in North Dakota...

Like what I did was added a dye pack to it. Then using compressed air charged the system to about 80 PSI which is enough to cycle the compressor. Run it for a short time 1-2 minutes to cycle the dye through and shut off. Then get out a black light and look. In both cases now no dye is visable in the engine area. So this means the evaporator is the cause of the leak... Thank goodness NAPA has a lifetime warranty on the evaporator...