Mopar1973Man

Your not worried... You'll be cruising in the air...

Shot my HX35 is handling close to 400 HP without a problem and still got fairly quick spool up... EGT temp are fair to OK with stock 3" straight pipe.

Yeah I relize the pump design is different but the principal should be the same... ( I think...)

So I crawl to the door big deal... I've got built in armor... Fat belly...

Ummm... My simple way...

Not to worried... I grew up in Los Angeles Ca. So I know how to bail for the door frames or out the door as the ground is moving 6.5-7.0...

Should matter but it could be I was running server stuff and it might of kick your post out...

Explain the diode thing for JohnFak... What happen is a diaode in the alternator will fail and short. Then when the vehicle is running you'll have a hopping AC waveform on the DC +12V signal now the freqency will change with RPM's so now at the point of 40-50 MPH the frequency drives the PCM nuts and causes this weird TQ converter lock/unlock. Then as the RPM increase more the frequency gets so high is just smooth and the PCM can't see it no longer... This is why the tin foil the alternator lead and noise filters on the APPS line are installed normally because a diode in the alternator failed... I look at it this way the truck ran normally without aids of wiring changes for many year and now a problem with lock up occurs... Adding a wiring mod or filters isn't the answer but finding the actual cause is...

I don't know all the numbers and details but... Well now let look at it... Oil enters the center tube and is pumped to the top of the toilet paper roll and then forced through the toilet paper edge wise downward. It leaves on the outer ring through the screen. So now take a look at tight wound TP roll and look at it from the edge to edge I but it can easily 1/2 micron... Now the flow rate is extremely slow because of the TP compressed media... Like w&F points out if you aim for a super tight filter media the flow rates start to suffer to a point then the second part is when does the filter go into bypass mode? Yes... This does happen with stock filters that they actually plug up and go into a bypass mode to keep the engine lubed but the filter is no longer functional. So what is a good balance of filter without over choking and under-filtering? So in my mind Fleetguard and a bypass filter should keep it clean... As for Mopar some of them are Fram repainted filters... (Cars) But looking between that simple paper element to a roll of TP...

Same here... But I know that Idaho uses tons and tons of salt... The secret is to keep the truck washed...

All I can say is no matter what you buy its going to be expensive for a 4WD truck... It least it was for me...

Well it proves the point that good fuel pressure equals good cooling and lubrication of the VP44... Below 14 it starts to get marginal... Below 10 your asking for VP44 failure...

On a dry fuel system I normally prime all the way to the injection pump and make sure the fuel is running out of the banjo bolt or fuel line at the VP44... Then crack 1,3,4 and go to cranking... When I see fuel spray like a power washer under the hood I know I tighten the fuel lines... Dribbling doesn't count... VP44 pump still produces 4,000-5,000 PSI during cranking so it should spray everywhere if primed. Then tighten 1,3,4 and fire up... Simular to ISX video that he did cracking injection lines...

I bet you own one too... Actually my dobbie has the nickname of "Dork"

I'm running both the stock Fleetguard and the AirDog 150 with fleetguard 3 micron... Lets say tthe stock filter is still white for the most part and closing in at 50K miles... But I've changed the AD filter twice in 50K miles...

I don't remember which years but all the automatics like from 2000-2002 I think have HY35 turbos... All manuals trans came with HX35...

I tend to make up for the fleetguard lacking by using a bypass filter (Frantz Filter) and it down to 1/2 Micron according to their web site www.wefilterit.com ... Like Dorkweed proved already that you can go 80K+ miles with cheap old WalMart Supertech Engine Oil, fleetgaurd filters, and a bypass filter and never think about changing oil... (Scary but true!) But that just my thoughts on it...

I'm curious too...

I know on the VE pumps there is 2 spring that controls governor speeds... 1. The main spring that everyone upgrades to 366 (3,200 RPM). 2. Then the tophat spring which controls idle. Now as the pump is idling the governor arm leans against the tophat spring. As the engine starts to slow down the tophat spring pushs the throttle up more keeping the engine going. But this is VE pump information but it might give a clue to what you missed on you spring setup... VE pump...

Did the diodes check out good too?

Not bad they are just a bit sticky for a clutch... (Or a got a hot spot from all the log skidding I do...) GW is right... You can run a boost elbow against the stock ECM but don't expect to keep you upper end power. As the boost rises to its limit the ECM will defuel the VP44 to try and keep a hold of it. But your upper end performance will suffer. Now if you want to trip the code then you need to shock the ECM... Cruise a lower RPM and drop a gear and nail it WOT the boost will rises so far that the ECM can't defuel fast enough and it will pass the mark. P0234 code will be thrown... Just remember P0234 is a wastegate problem not a MAP sensor...

Only as good as the exhaust... So if you do a bunch of mods to the intake remember to do the exhaust too... This also mean to include your turbo exhaust housing because putting all the intake mods in and having a 9cm2 HY35 turbo is not going to change it much... This could be measured by having both boost pressure and drive pressure gauges in the cab. Typically boost and drive pressure should run equal most of the time till you hit your choke point then the drive pressure rises rapidily...

Yep... You need to get a scan tool and read your error codes. Also you need to check your lift pump pressure(s). As for the fuel pressure you need a pressure gauge in the cab so you can watch both idle and WOT throttle extremes... The needle should stay in the green all the time! 2001 Dodge's are known for not reporting both computer so what you saw was the PCM error codes P1693 pointing to the ECM... But the ECM never display it just rolled over to the odometer... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XQJmaIF9Do

I personal run Fleetguard filters...

That funny... Sounds like turbo wheeze...