Mopar1973Man

As far as I know of the 2001 model year is rare to find a KDP problem... It extremely rare to find it on the 2002 models... I've only seen 1 report of 2002 with a broken gear case under warranty... They even had pics of the receipt showing its a 2002 Dodge and pics of the broken gear case...

Like my little cheap SGII shows IAT and MAP signals... But my SGII mis-reports the MAP sensor as being like 28.3 PSIa (atomshpere). I really hate pointing the finger at the ECM so far the few I've talk to have no way to test ECM other that full replacement with a new ECM. But remember there is 46 different ECM's... Federal, California, 5 speed, 6 speed, automatic, etc... ECM's are not cheap...

Yeah the software is already present on all 24V 98.5 to 2002 Dodge trucks but the software was disabled by Dodge so yes you must have it re-enabled to be able to use it. As for the wear factor... The 3 dead cylinders are 1,2,3 and the 3 firing cylinders are 4,5,6... As for wear there is none because the 1,2,3 are just pumping air no fuel is injected at all. So these dead cylinders create a virtual loading of the engine causing the engine to warm up rapidily... Like my truck produces between 600-1,000*F worth of EGT's with exhaust brake and either 6 or 3 cylinder high idle... Oh... W & F I know about the term too but I think is a losing battle...

As for what I did in my truck was simple... There is only 3 wires running in the cab for power... I've got a 14 AWG wire straight from the batteries with a 20 Amp fuse. Then I tapped only 1 fuse for a trigger and put a relay on it switching the battery lead to follow the key so there is no internal loading of the stock wiring. Then I pulled a ground from the battery as well but all 3 wires are ran to a terminal board behind the knee bolster so I've never got to mess with fuse or otherwise again...

I would try replacing the IAT and MAP sensors first before the ECM... Also check the driver side ground on the battery since this is the main ground for the ECM. Maybe a weak connector? Typically when a ECM goes all sensors show a hi volt or low volt code...

Yeah the few that I ran across that where hard starting all had leaky injectors... But that my 2 cents...

With RV275 I'm always just over the 20 MPG mark empty... 3.55 Gears, 235/85 R16 tires, Edge Comp on 5x5...

P1688 is a injection pump failure... Replace the injection pump to get it running... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2627-P1688-Internal-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Controller-Failure?highlight=p1688 But it would be nice to know what your fuel pressure is too... As for the MAP sensor it will run still with a bad MAP sensor it will even run without but in limp mode for both...

I know the answer on the failure and was shown why they fail... I've been working on trying to find a exploded view of a CR injector so I could do a write up... The CR injector have a valve in them that is basically a BB in a seat. The electromagnet pulls the BB up from the seat causing there to be a loss of pressure above the pintle needle and POP the injector fires. The magnet releases the BB and seats against the hole once again and the injector stops firing. But now add <10 micron debris and it hones out the hole the BB sit on and the the BB can't seal the pressure causing the pressure to bleed constantly so the pintle is always bleeding fuel constantly. This what causes big issues with CR engine because once the injectors are leaking constantly it will start to wash out the piston rings and increase blow by... So like AH64ID he's added secondard filters and reduced the micron rating to 2-3 micron to protect his injectors...

Thanks... That is really handy for a weather map... To return the favor... Here is Idaho travel map with weather towers and highway cameras... http://511.idaho.gov/ I'm sure if you dig around there is others for your state...

Yeah your most likely right if the gap of the bar is wide enough to allow the chain to rock back and forth then yes the cut will spiral as well... You don't want ot see my 26" bar it well wore out...

I've got a easy way to remember winter stuff... Here in Idaho I'm not permitted to run irragation water year round. I've got to shut down the water and drain the lines every year at Oct 20th and then can setup the irragation again in Apr 15... So at this time I put my winter fronts and take them back off in Apr... Now... Extreme testing I ran with my winter front on as high as 55-60*F outside with no problems of cooling. Engine temp never crossed 197*F but would continue to run about 195*F as typical.

I've also got a 20 ton splitter too... (Yes the ATV got marked by the the dog "Diesel") But looking at your spiral cut thats a sign that one side of the chain is dull from hitting rocks or dirt. With my Sthl 046 I can run my 32" bar and cut a 36" round in just over 1 minute... I can buck a full cord of rounds in just about 1/2 tank of fuel in the saw... So if you needing huge amount of fuel to cut round either the saw is too small and/or the chain is dull...

Like I tell everyone it time to get basic to basics... What is required of a diesel engine to run? 1. Fuel2. Compression So is the fuel rail getting pressure? Any air in the fuel? Grid heater is not a huge requirement to make it start but it will help... You might baby it by plugging in the block heater... If the block heater is plugged in you can un hook the grid heaters and give a small burst of starter fluid and see if it pops... If so you know you got good compression. So then I would double check the ECM to be sure it getting power and coming online to fire the injectors...

Sthl 046 with a 32" bar...

Hmmm.. The only thing I can think off is the alternator is got a bad diode feeding AC wave form into the PCM causing this weird issue. Or the APPS sensor is bad in a spot causing a weird value fed to the PCM.

Still bleeding isn't going to fix it... What happens as you use your brake the pads heat up the pucks and the brake fluid kind of dries and hards to the pucks and what happens is the pucks grown in diameter. So now you got to check you puck for proper diamension and you find with a seal and trying to put the puck in a empty caliper it wont fit. But now take 600 grist sandpaper and light start sanding and you'll see the dried harden brake fluid on the pucks. Now continue till the pist fall into the empty bore without pushing. Remember this is WITHOUT seals in place. As for the debris here is what the debris and the harden brake fluid does to the seals it ruins them... Look at all the chew marks from debris... So bleeding isn't going to wash that out... As for bleeding... This is what comes out... This is what goes in... What's funny... With the truck on jackstands and 1 bottle of brake fluid I can do all 4 brake calipers in about 2 hours... Disassemble, wash, dry, inspect, reassemble, bleed, and your done... Remember this is all I do about every 2 years for disassembly and the full bleed every year... But at 178K miles still running on stock brake pads from the dealer...

Yeah I do have a way... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Then talk to Prowelder if you want to purchase one... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php?groupid=6

Already got my winter front on and been running it since Oct 20...

Man someone needs to sharpen their chainsaw... As for me I... I'm also a wood burner... Here is my monster log...As the camera woman shoot this pic I was thinking "Ow! My back!" Pulled by a 1st Gen... Thanx Taz

No different that 39...

Just go to www.tapatalk.com and download the App for your phone it automatically will convert so you phone can use the site...

My first I would say is get a exhaust brake... I'm at 178K miles currently and NEVER change the brake pads yet... But Yes I've done plenty of brake service to the truck I've done 2 caliper rebuilds so far. Basically take the calipers off and dis-assemble and clean and check all the pucks for fit, inspect the seals and weather boots. That what I found that gives the life to brakes. I do full brake fluid changes every 30K miles or once a year and about every 4 years take the caliper apart and clean them. I find that the brake fluid builds up on the pucks and they start to bind up so you must take then apart and clean them. Also just bleeding the system isn't enough... I found that even my truck over time will settle water and debris in the bottom of the calipers of course no amount of bleeding will remove it... So the only way it to remove and dis-assemble and clen them... But my stock brake pads still live on...

Ah it was you that call my cell phone... I'm glad I helped you get it figured out...

Still using my RV275 in my beast Thanx CajFlynn....