Mopar1973Man

Good to hear...

So I already know the IAT curcuit and just got to pull it out and get my DVM after it looking for a short in the wire since the code is a P0113 high volts... So the ECM leg is most likely shorted to itsself... :banghead:

If you got to use belt dressing on a auto-adjusted serpentine belt you better look at the auto adjuster for failure... If your dressing the belt because of the power chirp... Well get a GoodYear Gatorback belt and it will be gone but the belts are spendy....

Best I can say is check over Ebay or CraigsList... http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?Model%2520Year=2001&_trkparms=65%253A12%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A3483&_nkw=dash%20bezel%20dodge%20ram&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1513&_pgn=1

You got to remember all my notes are right here on the web site so I share all my knowledge with everyone... Yeap I did right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Or...

I'm sorry to say I'm not very good with Automatic transmissions but there is a few guys here that are excellent information sources. Like Wild & Free is my guy that is really up on the autos you might send him a PM... As for tech help I can point you to the Dodge FSM book... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=41 You might check over this write up and see if this might apply to you... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/trans/trans.htm

Sensor is good but the high idle wiring has a random issue.... Yes the CEL was trip as soon as the -40*F was displayed on the SGII... So like I tell everyone that sees MAP sensor codes with a box... Pull the addon stuff off, clear the code and take it for a drive if the code is gone then the box is to blame... If the code comes back then the sensor is to blame... So in my case I removed the addon wiring cleared the code and drove the rest of the day without a problem so the addon wiring is to blame...

Heck... My 1983 Goldwing GL1100 had crosshatch still at 85K miles when I blew the head gasket and that just standard oil engine oil 10w-30 or 10-40w and honda filters... All I'm pointing out is that today's engine oil is head and shoulders above yester-year... Just something to consider because there is at least 2 members here with over 500K miles on just standard petroluem oil...

Oil has no factor in the one I did it had over 620K miles and its a 1992 Dodge Cummins 12V it was pure old age and the gasket srunk and split open like KOYOTE mention... Sorry to say nothing last for ever...

Hey gang... Give ol' LiveOak a hand over at his forum... If any of you guys own tractors or live in a rural area he's the man you want to go talk too... He's got a helpful staff of guys that are knowledgeable in many fields of farm, and such... So stop over and take a peek and see if you can give him a hand... Home Page www.tractorfarmandfamily.com Forum http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com Blog http://blog.tractorfarmandfamily.com I'm sure there is a bunch of you that have tractors, or Ag equipment and could contribute some information to his forum...

Well gang... I figured I'd share a experience with you all... I've got a home made high idle kit on my Cummins that electronically fools the ECM to thinking it cold and tripping the high idle software... But what was occurring is that as I drove down the highway I would listen to a random cyclic timing changing heavy advancement (heavy ping) to retarding (quiet). But I had no CEL (check engine light), codes displayed on the ScanGauge II, or unusual IAT temps. Till finally I tripped a code P0113 which I knew was a IAT sensor code and the display showed the -40*F for temp. But I reset the code and watch the display as a I traveled started seeing slightly off numbers you really have to watch the numbers closely and listen but you could see the number and timing rattle change up and down randomly till -40*F and CEL would pop... Well come to find out my IAT lead in my high idle fooler has damage somewhere so now to repairing my custom mod...

Here is what I got... http://www.jakebrake.com/products/ld.php Owners Manual... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=81 My write up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/exhaust-brake/exhaust-brake.htm

I tend to forget about that because my grid heaters are disabled... I un-hook mine very spring and hook the up again in the fall of the year... But if the relay is sticking I would high consider replacing the relays soon...

Looks like your standing on the dam wall... Wow! that is neat though...

http://local.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&q=&vps=1&jsv=259e&sll=42.004186,-74.062807&sspn=0.010954,0.01929&ie=UTF8&geocode=FdrugAIdKeSV-w&split=0 Close but no cigar.... Last resort is not placed correctly... Here is corrected...

Hmmmm... Fishin' I love to be out in a boat catchin' some good trout right about now... The weather is just right for it...

Becareful of the sender...

Double check your grounds as well a weak ground lead can and will cause the very same condition. The master ground for the ECM is buried behind the starter but the code is most likely coming from the PCM...

Mom's got a Auto 96 1/2 ton (gasser 5.9L) and I like the truck in all but I really hate that truck if it got any load at all because coming down hill 1st gear goes all the way to 40 MPH before it holds up good and tight (near redline at 5K RPM's) constantly dragging the brakes. Now my 2002 Cummins 5 speed trailer and bed loaded 2nd gear and the Ex. Brake 20-25 MPH and very controllable... Rarely touch the brakes hence why I got 171K on my factory brake pads... Auto are not suited for this...http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7lOJLD948

Heck I love the power chirp I know I'm all together under the hood yet...

Link? I wanted to try that because I'm sure they can't find me...

Yeap that is identical to my Mom's 96 except for where it hooks up...

Now you got to back check for a bleeding switch or its finding ground elsewhere... So double check (By clicking) your hi/lo switch and see if it shuts off...

Don't work on mine... I can pull the key completely out of the ignition in the ACC position and still DING DING DING... I'm just so tired right now I can even figure out how the wiring of the light, door switch and central timer come to play but I'll figure it out...

Hmmm... Problem is everyone is a dealer currently I've got 2 listed on the site as of now... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm You may PM the information back and forth you may also contact one that is list above... I've also had 4 other guys asking to become AMSOil dealers here that would flood the site with just too many I figure...