Mopar1973Man

Ok... Here you go ISX... My thoughts on dynamic timing is looking at something really simple. Like lets say you take your P-pump and set oh let say 16* BTDC and now the rest of the summer its great. bUt now you desided to come to Idaho this winter to visit me and the weather was -20*F. Chances are your truck will have a tough time starting because of the initial timing is too advanced. But why is that a 24V starts easy? Well I think it comes back to the IAT sensor and the ECM making a initial dynamic change at start up time to allow for starting then as the IAT starts to warm up with the ECT then the timing is re-adjusted to suit the conditions. But my grey area is the fact that I know the P-pump is mechanical advanced but how far? If it starts at 16* then how far does it go up to? I know P-pump is more based off of RPM's that anything else making it a dumb pump but its in a lot of ways but very simple too pump... I think both have plus and minus that make them both very good pumps...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-iPCb-3cqU Here is something I highly suggest no one does to their truck a good way to do damage to the engine. When he pouring Seafoam in you can hear the pre-ignition knock... OUCH!

2WD as far as I know is a spinlde bearing type... (Cone and race) My Bad... :banghead:

If you can manage to get the task manager open and watch the start up of programs you might get a clue to what program is loading and why the long hang. Typically its something in the registry (startup list) that causes the hang... But also check your startup folder in the program list too... 99% sure its a aftermarket piece of software that is loading and hanging. Then after it hangs and releases then disappears from the task manager... Be smart and backup your registry before you edit...

Pull the filter minder and grommet out of the stock box... Measure the hole for the stock box and re-drill a hole in the end on fthe BHAF. Install the grommet and the filter minder... Current condition after 6 years and 120K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=923

I know the pin goes to the ECM... As for which port I'm not sure... The ECM deliverers the delay for activation so you can shift gears without the E Brake becoming instant active every time.

Actually no... I was hoping to wind you back up again... Just wanted to give you a ration of crap...

Give me a bit of time I'll PDF mine and upload to the site... --- Small delay I'm back... I found my manuals but I don't have the install manuals...:banghead: But here is what I do have... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=81

Hmmm... Did you check the Event Viewer under Administrative tools? Maybe something is crashing and taking a very long time to fail? Did you check your registry for errors? Here is a good tool for that... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=47

Left: Cooper STT 265/75 R16 Load Range E Right: Big O AT's 235/85 R16 Load Range E Go here and plug in the tires sizes... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Shame on you ISX... I had more faith in you to complete a job without left over hardware... Or should I start another thread about dynamic timing?

That's great... Would you mine me put this in the writeup?

Sure thing...

That grumbling noise is too much oil in the system... According to Mitchell 1 the total capacity of PAG oil is 6 ozs... Now that being said there is 2 versions of freon out there... 1. Freon 134a. 2. Freon 134a with oil charge. So now if your system has a slow leak and bled off just the freon (because the oil settle to low points then even can of freon with oil charge will over charge the system with oil... I too also have a bit of gumble too... (made the same mistake :banghead:)... Not to see how bad it over charged with oil look at the back of the compressor there a single nipple fitting when the compressor is first fired up and tries to compress the oil it can't so it blows it out the back of the compressor. (Relief valve) I see this on my buddy truck 1992 Dodge... You'll notice a oil dripping off the engine mount...

Done all that for 12 years in a old 1972 Dodge Power Wagon without A/C!

Now where are you going to mount it at??? Did you play with the hi/lo alarms??? and find the hi/lo history??? (Undocumented)

Something to think about on the luggablity... How big is the flywheel and how heavy is it per each engine??? I think the fact amount of weight these engines are throwing around (cranks, flywheel, etc) tends to allow much lower RPM's under load... Like the old pic of the connecting rods... Cummins being the biggest and Ford being the smallest...

Here is part of it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/trans/trans.htm The P1765 was either the Trans Relay or a open/short condition for the TQ Conv... (Using a Mystery Switch?)

Right on the money... 1. Start with double checking the hydraulics and re-bleeding them... 2. Then pull the trans and inspect if thats not working...

Big O AT's - 235/85 R16 - Load Range E's These for size have been the best tire yet for highway use... Big O warranty is for the life of the tire... So if I had only 10% tread and stuff a tree limb in the side wall they replace the tire no questions asked. PERIOD! Been there done that... As for offroad tires... Cooper STT - 265/75 R16 - Load Range E's Great for offroad traction but expensive... Also a 2-3 MPG loss because of the extra weight...

I know exactly... It goes from the dash stud to the heater core... It keeps the heater core from rotting out on you...

Funny... You sit me down and test me on anything with pen and paper I will suffer period... But you let me explain it orally or show it to you in my own way... OMG! Worlds of difference... Its a apparent here...

#2 Diesel Fuel + 128:1 Ratio 2 Cycle Oil...

The Jacobs Brake from the Dodge Dealer is really simple to install... Like SASQCH happen to say that if you can turn a wrench you can install it (typically). As for activation and wiring might be different...

So what was the compression test like for numbers? Reason why I ask is I got a 1983 Goldwing with the same issues and what had happen is a blew a head gasket. Well the shop milled the head true flat again but found out they over milled the heads now my compression is a bit to high and it overheats all the time now and the only way to see this is in compression test numbers...