Mopar1973Man

Nor have I heard of any tales of a Pyro probe wiping out a turbo...

I guess though then... Geez... Must be the old tyme gasser I remember sitting in really deep... tHose kind of hang out a bit... wow!

What I'm finding is that you can't have your cake and eat it too.. Either you build up your truck a little bit and blow a bit of smoke and get into the 22-23 MPG bracket or you go for full smog control with DPF and EGR valve and drop to a low of 14 MPG...

Yeah that's poking out a bit far... (Ugh!) But if it finally seated back behind the bellhousing then I would safely assume your in far enough... I doubt that you got this far and you'll make it through... Just got to get the TQ Conv. in all the way. As for the VB work you might talk to Wild & Free hes a good one for Auto's Guts...

I don't think that is fair... A oil company makes a mistake (because of their greed) and we got to pay for it...

Still keep track of it I'm still curious if it help or not...

Here you go gang the oil spill graphically displayed for ya... http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/37219823/ns/gulf_oil_spill

I curious if there is a MPG change from it?

Good to hear it got fixed...

Is it like this??? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1811-Can-the-idle-speed-be-adjusted?p=12780&viewfull=1#post12780

Pulling a 7% grade on the highway about 1,100*F at 18 PSI of boost... (65 MPH)

Naw... Your are not electric def nor electric adj... Your safe for the moment... Or do they?

Way you VP44 is acting you might talk to JL Welding... Seems you to got something in common... But that is plain weird everytime you hit Drive (in gear) it falls on its face and dies not unless you jump into gear rapidily... It like the governor of the VP44 isn't doing its job properly is my feeling... Because the unstable idle isn't right nor is the low idle speed... Something is for such not right...

Sound like the overflow valve is weaker?

As for the exhaust brake it has no ill effect ot being used on a engine... The valve creates back pressure equal to that amount of boost you normal produce on the intake side. So it reverse effect is slowing down the engine. As for changing out the injection pump your going to need about another ~$1,500 to do it and tear down the front of the engine... * gear case (Incudes pulling the cam) * high pressure fuel lines * new throttle linkage * new lift pump or change the cam for a cam with a lobe for a mechanical fuel pump. And a few other things that you'll have to change to finish up...

Don't sweat it my truck is no spring checken either... My truck has been hit by a tree, driver side is all chipped up, the pasender side, is rather new looking, rims are starting to corrode, etc... I now try to hide this under a thin coat of wax and dust...

CajFlynn here has 815K on his 2001 Dodge... Here is a copy of his signature... 2001 qdlb, stage 2 f1 injector, 3 disc tc, 4 inch exhaust, arp head studs, ats co-pilot, power puck/smarty, j-hook, lots of gauges, lots of mag-hytec, bhaf, vulcan big line kit, 815K miles

I agree with dually... Even though I turn off my Edge Comp its still on doing boost fooling and keeping the Map sensor signal with in reason. So to truely return to stock you got to unplug everything including the wire tap...

How about a good pic of it doing some work... Towing, haulin, getting dirty...

Here you go gang... http://www.thedailytimes.com/article/20100520/NEWS/305209993

I'd love to have a set of these mirrors...

Get a piece of old rubber hose split it down theside and put it over the freon line to protect it from rubbing from the BHAF...

You are one of the few people that was lucky enough to fail within specs and not toss codes... .334 is a bit low for volatage typically idle is right around 0.5 volts... So I can see that causing issues with idling lower. So yeah it's time to think about replacing the APPS sensor...

I've seen people mount trans coolers on the front of the truck and route the fuel thorugh the cooler and back to the pump but this has a design flaw. What do you do with -20*F to -50*F weather??? You design must include a option for northern states lincluding Alaska... So to keep from trying to re-invent the wheel most just keep the fuel flowing through the VP44 and it seems to do fine. Like myself I'm at 117K miles and still going strong... ---------- Post added at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 AM ---------- I'm curious...

Really... What wrong with a Stealth cover? I've got over 4 years on mine and closing the door on 75K miles without too much issues... The only one I had was the nut backed off slightly and gave a weak connection to the wire. Tighten the nut again problem solved... Yeah but if you solder or mess with the wire most places won't warranty a pump... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=711