Mopar1973Man

Well you could check error codes yourself using the key trick... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

At this point I would correct the voltage problem first thing... Check over the alternator and charging stuff. Then I would clear the codes and see if any come back. The wild voltage up and down could of tripped the codes in the first place...

There is some adjustments that can be made on the steering box. Sector adjustment will typical remove that slack quick... Its the jam nut and allen bolt... Give me a bit to dig up the write up (or if some else can help)...

Typically most hook up to a regulated source like a air compressor and then soap the system down looking for bubbles. Or like the one in the picture load it with air and watch the pressure gauge for fall...Either way you end up soaping the system looking for bubbles. Oh yeah if you got a boost elbow you might take it out and put the stock elbow in. Adjustable or aftermarket elbows have a tiny pin hole in them so this will show a leak. So if you put the stock elbow back you can also test the wastegate for function.

The only thing I can say is becareful... I don't know if the rubber cap with swell outward and spit the hardware back at you as every stretches out.

Like Live Oak mentions... Keep it in the green...

Becareful... 10 PSI is lmit... Most of your restriction is the small plumbing. So if you now threw a big line kit against it and relocated the pump near the tank you could go lot farther with pressure... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm

Looks like this...

LiveOak hit it on the head... I would bend your fingers though for a Raptor at least...

I've found another lost account here for another member... From what I can see that only a few users so far were lost during a update along the way up through the version 4 process... Please if oyu account is miss or having login in problems PLEASE contact me and I'll try to straighten out this mess...

Closest AutoZone to me is 150 miles...

Not to mention DSL... Well yes there is a certain amount of livability but there is no convenance to anything here...

We do as a matter of fact but sad but true the troubled economy force the close to me to close...

Really easy... Head 15 miles from my place into Riggins, ID and then turn up the Big Salmon River road and travel to the end of the road 26 miles to Vinegar Creek and head due east on foot or boat... There is several foot trails that are in that area... Here a pic from Florence Area just west of there... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=987

The more I keep talking to people the more they just don't understand the fact I live in the middle of nowhere. I'm a long ways from a big city or a town with supplies... What I'm going to do is post 2 pictures of Google Map with my surrounding towns and show you what I got... Now remember I'm not exactly in New Meadows, ID proper I'm 20 miles north of New Meadows, ID I'm exactly 3/4 of mile south of Pinehurst Trading post. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=985 Council, ID (52 miles) is one place I pick up parts for my truck bvut if I was to travel south I would have to go to either Boise or Ontario, OR for part beyond that. For grocery shopping I head to McCall (35 miles) for food shopping (basics). All the other towns in between are like ghost town just basics food and fuel if that. Ontario, OR is the first large town you come across with a WalMart and a K Mart. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=984 Now going north is same way... Riggins (15 miles) is my typical town I hang around in. It got fuel, food, and basic stuff. But now if I got the extra miles and head to grangeville (60 miles) there is a Cummins dealer (John Deere Tractors) and another part store. Now there is a little town of Whitebird in between these two is basically a ghost town. No fuel, No grocery store, but does have 2 bars and a restruant. Beyond that you have to travel to Lewisotn, ID (125 miles) to get to any large town to for like WalMart or simular. So what it comes down to is the fact if I want anything I must travel either 180 miles one way to Boise, ID or go to 120 miles north and head to Lewiston, ID. This is what I live in... (Yes... Over the far distance ridge is Oregon State and home is down in the valley below) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=688 Home... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=986

It is different for set of two calipers (front set or rear set) is $120 to $130 a pair with pads... Local part stores didn't carry rebuild kits for the brake calipers... I was informed it was a dealer only item... So maybe I should find out who you went through...

I'm sure the OP is going OMG! What did I just buy??? Well the cat is out of the bag and yes the Edge Comp does have problems but for the most part if you understand the issues and how to avoid them you'll get the most out of the product... So don't sweat it...

I wonder if you got the bug like mine does... Set you levels like 4x1 and 5x5 and test run on 5x5 you should have low power and very little smoke. Now switch 4x5 and run 5x5 and see if you power increases. I've found the adjacent level effect the next higher level. Like I found if you set all levels 1x5, 2x5, 3x5, 4x5, and 5x5 you get the most out of the 5x5.

Simple break down... MAIN LEVEL 1. 40 HP2. 60 HP3. 80 HP4. 100 HP5. 120 HP SUBLEVEL 1. 33% of fuel till 20 PSI of boost2. 50% of fuel till 15 PSI of boost3. 67% of fuel till 10 PSI of boost4. Some extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost5. Full fuel at 0 boost. Now some notes... Main level determines how much maximum fuel and timing your going to get. So higher the level the more timing and fuel are given. Sublevel is actually 2 modes in one... Defuel and power modes. Sublevels 1-3 are defuel mode to aid in smoke controllability. Now remember the timing and fuel are greatly effect in these modes. These modes are typical used by people with very large injectors. Also the towing crowd is known to use these for EGT control. Sublevel 4-5 are power modes that delivers more power smoothly over the main level span. Now the timing is more enhanced from idle up to full power. If you looking for MPG's and can drive with a light foot. I highly suggest you set it for 5x5 and leave it go... With a light foot you controlling the fuel amount with your foot and the timing stays advanced longer.

Dealer only parts I found out... But the O-rings are cheap at like $1.20 a piece and pistons are $12 bucks... The best part is I rubuilt all four wheels and only spent $40 bucks...That a huge saving over buying 4 rebuilt calipers at $120 a piece with brake pads...

Basically take it apart clean every thing... If your using air to remove the piston make sure you put a 2x4 board in the jaw of the caliper ot protect the piston from damage. Also make sure to keep your fingers out of the way because the come out hard and fast. Be aware to protect your body from flying parts! Replace all the seal and boots... The check the pistons for fit. If the pistons will not drop into there bore to the bottom without being pushed then you need to tune the piston slightly. I use 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the pistons to fit the bores. Most of the time you find your sanding off old dried up brake fluid resdue. The re-assemble, bleed, and test drive...

Check this out guys...

Talk to one of the vendors I'm sure they could help out...

Ummm... I know its been done for street machines but it could be a serious problem if raw oil was drawn into the exhaust system. THe way I've seen it done on street rigs is drill a hole into the exhaust pipe and insert a pipe running paralell to the flow of the exhaust stream then a natural vacuum is created. But to protect the engine from pressurized exhaust they included a check valve to prevent exhaust pressure entering the crankcase. But the whole idea was given up on when they had to deal with oil entering the exhaust stream and the uncontrolable smoking. Now on Chevy 6.5L they routed the breather into the turbo. This becomes a huge mess for the same reason because when the blowby got bad it would blow oil into the turbo making a huge mess of the air system. Personally I'll let mine drip on the ground...

A set of RV275 are worth it...