Mopar1973Man

Well if its like most of the clusters I works with there is a clear plastic circuit board on the back with copper tracers. Most of the time its just a blown bulb(s) or worse yet a bad tracer (cracked). So if its a bad tracer I would just solder a jump wire in...

Words of wisdom for ya... I alway though the same thing that bumping the start will prime the pump. But there is a small hitch... If you lift pump is producing less than 14 PSI worth of pressure during this time the air bubble will be trapped and your going to need to release the air bubble by pressing the schrader valve pin, crack a fuel line (big line kit). But other than that bubble will be forced up into the VP44...:banghead: Yeap I learned trhe hard way...

Not much to it... I barrowed Bob Wagner smarty and fired up the Catcher without timing and played for a few hours and enjoyed the power. Then returned to stock and the high idle bit was left on. So now high idle is set forever till a dealer plays with it of my ECM dies...

Close... Really close... Technical Service Bulletin... But ISX is right that its a service bulletin that Dodge/Cummins put out in regards to the possible problem with your truck, safety issues, etc. As for the oil weepage it could be a valve cover issue... But as for wore rings I really don't it unless your putting a lot of oil in it over time... CaJflynn here has 807K miles on his 2001 Dodge 3500 truck. He's actually got wear he's putting a few quarts in every day. But he covers between 800-1000 miles a day towing boat cross country.

Well if you can get another car for $600 I would do it... But now you would have to redo all the steel wool in all the weird places to keep the mice out.

Ok... I got some insite... I had a guy that had been calling me on a regular basis with a P1960 code. Even after replacing the sensor and the code still hung. finally giving in to the dealer for $240 bucks roughly to come to find out the ECM connector and the cam sensor connectors wore out. They just were not making a solid cotact with the ECM and Cam sensor. So I know this isn't exactly you case but you might have to get creative and double check connectors to see if there is a weak connection.

Here is my write up on the AirDog install... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

I'm running a cheaper version of it... Frantz Filter it does just about as good but it runs with toilet paper... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/frantz-filter/frantz-filter.htm As I got a write up for a erd gen install that might get you thinking too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/amsoil-bypass/amsoil-bypass.htm

Naw... That why under the deck out back I got a set of Cooper STT tires (265/75 R16) on cheap white spoke rims. If I want to play with the big boys I just mount them up. Don't take much to pull out a impact gun and jack up the truck... I'm full of tricks...

I would suggest you think about my crankcase mod... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm Because typically the oil vapor will plug the radiator face up.. Plus not to meantion the 2 TSBs for the problem. As for the white smoke coming out the vent it could be seeing water vapor coming out from the high humidity nights. But when to worry is when the underside of the truck is coated in oil and the your constantly adding oil to the crankcase. If your not doing that you fine with a vapor leaving the crankcase.

Wow! There is advertiser willing to suck up every chunk of space they can...

Don't even get me started with the media control... I know the media is just playing games with the information about how the economy is right now there are not going to tell the world how bad it really is... so this little leak from BO wife is kind of like the teaser for the day... I know the gov't is so warpped is not even funny...

Try again... Sorry the print is so small butr after the site render it it shrinks...

Blend door is a electric stepper motor on the passenger side on the bottom of the HVAC system... If you turn the igniton to ON and twist the temp knob you should see the stepper motor moving back and forth. Common for the plastic arm to wear, break, or jam.

Here you go... All the wiring for the A/C...

Nice...

Oh... Another trick... The plastic tubing... Remove the full length of it from end to end... Now flex the tubing and roll the flex down the length looking for splits. Don't kink it or fold it... just put a heavy bend in it and if the tube is split it will show up quick! On my Mom's 96 it split the tube but would randomily work and not. Well after flexing the tubing the split showed up so I replace the piece and the problem solved.

Ahhh... Like my stock Cummins rims... They are starting to turn black and white corroded around the edges from the loss of clear coat and the fact "Diesel" my dog is peeing on the tires don't help... So it might be just easier to find a set of use rims off a FleaBay...

Yeah I know the budget thing is really tough on people... But remember if you deal with the problems properly the cost of repairs won't bite you bad later.

Simple... My SG II and Garmin V are closer to right than hand calculation typically... For the reason my stock speedometer and odometer are off by exact 0.5 MPH so the stock odometer is typically about 20-25 miles faster compared to the Garmin or the ScanGauge II so the MPG numbers are about 0.2 to 0.5 lower on the SG II which is just about dead on if I use the mileage numbers from the SG II / Garmin to hand calculate. But if I use the stock speedometer the numbers are higher and alway have me re-calibration everything till I relized that 0.5 MPH offset is enough to foul all the calculations and remember if you calculating the SGII use the SG II number for figuring NOT the stock odometer! Watch around the 1:09 mark you see my calc for offset appear... This gets worse over time of travel... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq0XG5qRLsM

I would say the bead blasting and repaint them is the best option... Really going over board would be powder coating them... Then install the fresh rubber... Or new (or used) aftermarket rims and fresh rubber.

Well on the bright side the Hobbs switch is most likely beat up from the water hammer and flickering now. My first Cummins pressure switch did that and one day it just started peeing out the top of the pressure switch... Now as for getting a gauge on there is important to see what your run pressure and starting pressure is. Remember excessive pressure at start up time might cause issues... Then low pressure during run might of ripped the diaphram and made matter worse.

Make sense... Yeah it wasn't long ago when I remember seeing Walbro system floating around a bunch and the POOF!... But i do see the pump are still available its just the kits are not... so if it was me I would then use a Vulcan Big Line Kit and Walbro and mod the Big Line Kit out to work. About the only thing I can think of that not there is the regulator.

Vacuum motor is too slow to keep up with changes... The newer electronic cruise control is smoother...

Even his wife admits it live! So how is he a president of the US???