Mopar1973Man

I would check for error codes. Because if the pump is internal shorted or internal open then there would error code set. But check the pump resistance and it should be no higher than 200 ohm and no less than 20 ohms. Check the ground behind the starter. This is the location of the ECM ground...

ECM controls the lift pump directly... There is no relay in between the two...

Not needed... Just squeeze the 2 blue tabs inward and lightly pull the line... My trick is un-screw the sender nut and then drop the tank down easy allowing the sender to hang. Then you can get right up there and squeeze the tab and pull ti loose...

Doesn't... The AD doesn't use that line...

Yea... More I keerp reading this the more i keep thinking its a air issue. Because the fact it only happens with cold starts. If a constant issues that never went away I would lean toward the injectors more... Chasing a air leak is rather tough at times... If its on the low pressure system you might pressurize the fuel tank and have some one look over the system for wet spots.If its on the high pressure side you might have to really look for damp spots, check connector o-ring, etc...

It was only a extra $20 bucks for me to upgrade from 100 to 150... Why not...

Make sure to get some pics of how you did it I might do the same thing too!

50*F is not cold enough to require the grid heaters... Hmmm... Do you have a bad O-ring on the connector tubes? Air leaking back into the system and loosing prime?

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/ps-flush/ps-flush.htm

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-filter/addon-filter.htm

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/coolant-flush/coolant-flush.htm

Raptor 100/150 is just a pump... AirDog 100/150/165 is pump, pre filter, water separator, 2 micron filter, and air seperation...

It is adjustable about the spring is internal and you need to pull the reurn fitting to access it. Pressure supply heads to the inlet of the stock filter. return head to the filler neck hose on the fuel tank. And suction is from my draw straw or (stock sender AD 100). Yes there is a filter in the stock canister too... You'll find you only need to change that about every 50-60K miles. But as for fuel warming and WIF light its nice... It cold winters it does help to getting the fuel warmed up a biut and remember the VP44 does monitor fuel temps and adjust flow and timing rates from this information. AirDog 100 - Uses stock pickup in tank (100 GPH) AirDog 150 - Uses a drawstraw add-on (150 GPH) AirDog II - Suppose to use the stock pickup in the tank but not sure... (165 GPH)

Sorry to say that in cab fuse panel is a real PITA to even see from the inside let alone even reach it. If you looking for places to tap for lighting then you might consider the ash tray, radio illumination, etc. (Orange wire)

What the temp like down there? If the temp is above 32*F then there is no need for grid heaters... I don't even wait for the light on mine if the temp is above 32*F and normally pull my grid heater power leadf in the spring. i started as low as 25*F with grid heaters... Yes it will run rough for a second or two and smoke but clears up in a few seconds... Any error codes? How long till it straighten out? As for the injectors just take them to a shop and have them pop tested... The shop I went to the guys were great and took me to the back room and show me how they pop test them and what they look for.

Basically you need a box that taps the VP44 and give considerable timing. some say Smarty is good for the 3rd Gens and for the 2nd Gen I'm in favor of the Edge Products. Like myself I'm running a Edge Comp on 5x5 and typically set my cruise at 55-60 MPH.

In honor of the 44th President of the United States , Baskin-Robbins Ice Cream has introduced a new flavor: " Barocky Road ." Barocky Road is a blend of half vanilla, half chocolate, and surrounded by nuts and flakes. The vanilla portion of the mix is not openly advertised and usually denied as an ingredient. The nuts and flakes are all very bitter and hard to swallow. The cost is $100.00 per scoop. When purchased it will be presented to you in a large beautiful cone, but after you pay for it, the ice cream is taken away and given to the person in line behind you at no charge. You are left with an empty wallet and no change, holding an empty cone with no hope of getting any ice cream. Are you stimulated?

Now with the posting of the Holley pump its looking like the Raptor is getting a run for the money... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley Holley 150 Old holley blue...

The problem you'll find out is the trans adapter for you jack can balance the trans and the transfer case it will instantly lean back on you... I used my little bottle jack under the transfer case and balanced against the main arm of the floor jack... But I got it in... But as for the trans/tranfer I left it tied to the jack and just rolled it back to the rear axle so I could install the clutch... Lifting that combo is just to much by a single man...

My comments in blue... Really good to 23 MPG isn't it... Now catch my high mark at 25.3 MPG... Typically on the open highway I'm pulling 21-22... Around here at home it can vary widely from 18-22 MPG depending on which road I have to travel up.

Shoot this has been the easiest winter for me... I've not picked up a snow shovel all but twice this winter and now not seeing snow since Christmas time is great. Don't get me wrong just look out my window and see snow above me on the mountain at about 4K feet... I'm at 2,800 roughly... Temps floating around at... 30-40*F

Don't call Cummins or Dodge for a APPs sensor... It will cost about $400 buck (or $760 Canadian)... I would call either Jocob Kidd Diesel Auto Power (which happens to be a vendor here) or contact Timbo Directly for a Timbo APPS. They are costing $160 bucks for a replacement... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html

Then its a low pressure return line just stop by a NAPA store and get a chunk...

Yeah it does... But remember there is only going to be flow from this return only if the injectors are firing... If the injectors don't fire the no return... The 2 pics show the return line from the head and the tee connector...

Ouch... Well let me give you a link for reading material... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer Snubber or a needle valve prevents water hammer from beating the gauge to death. Because the VP44 tends to open and close valves rapidily so the gauge might be buzzing. This is water hammer occuring live! It quite literally beating the gears against each other. But as for the rapid fall fo fuel pressure it looks like you might need a fuel pump... It should NEVER fall below 10 PSI ever... So I would consider a Raptor or like another member brought up a new setup with Holley HP150... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley (New idea)