Mopar1973Man

Ummm... You might check the fuel pressure during cranking... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA Excessive cranking pressure might be the cause of it...

Here is a good pic for the thread...

Hey Jacob... Would you believe I lost my outerwear's profiler last year (wore a hole in it and only had it for a year) But my BHAF is 5 years old now with a 109K miles and still going with all the dusty dirt roads of idaho... A filter minder is a must to determine if the filter is actually plugged...

Hmmm... This brings up a valid problem for Taz's truck its just like you 16* advanced timing... several rev's before it even pops. I'm starting to wonder if we should back the timing off a tad... :confused:

Ummm... Russ your one of the great wise ones we got in the group remember wisdom comes with age! (also glad to have you here!) As for the PS2's... Please I got a computer here that runs rings around that junk...

Really easy to do... I did the AD 150 because I plan on upgrade injectors in the future... But here is my write up. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm As for like a Raptor its really simple and can be done with basic hand tools and little effort you can install a rapto in about 3-4 hours taking your time... It a complete kit and comes with all wiring, fittings and hose.

Well Silver Jim... I'm very close to you in usage... I'm in the middle of Idaho there is no service for miles in some of the places I go. Like Riggins, ID has no mechanics really just a single Chevron station that will change oil and tires but thats it. So as for taking care of the truck I've done everything in my power to make it bulletproof. As for lift pump I highly suggest you talk to JKidd and he'll set you up with like a AirDog, Raptor or every a FASS. But don't bother with a FASS DDRP they are junk. As for keeping the VP44 in top notch you might consider using a good fuel lubricant additive or 2 cycle oil. More information here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm Sorry the SG II can only read when the ECM/PCM reports. Since only 10% of all vehicles produced have a fuel pressure sensor the chances are rare to use the FP function of the SG II. Since the SG II can only see when the ECM/PCM report. Sorry...

Good suggestion... I'm a bit blurry about 6.7L stuff but I'm willing to learn... Hey SnoFarmer, could you post some pics of what your aiming to do? I'm kind of the visual kind of guy...

Sorry... I comment that you dog looks good with a bird in its mouth... See them around here but normal we don't use dogs we just shoot... :confused:

I thought the same thing too...:confused:

If I remember right its every 24K miles...

Shoot... That would be perfect on my pelton wheel...:eek: My water wheel (pelton wheel) would be great for that little 4 cylinder compressor! Then I would have air all the time...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51&stc=1&d=1259854479

Well your going to have to find another autozone or shop with a scanner and scan for codes... A bunch of codes don't light the CEL light. Like P0216 code (VP44 death code)... :eek: So first thing we need is... Know if you got error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Then whats your fuel pressure like... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm

Hmmmm.... Lets see... AD 150 -> 150 Gallons Per Hour -> 35 Gallons / 150 GPH = 0.23 x 60 = 14 Minutes AD 100 -> 100 Gallons Per Hour -> 35 Gallons / 100 GPH = 0.35 x 60 = 21 Mintues Now the problem this is most returned back at the AD's return line. Only if you got fuel pressure above 14 PSI is it passing through the fuel heater and back out at the overflow valve and back to the tank. Something to think about. Scary part is I'm running a 2 micron filter on my AD 150 so cold plugging point comes even earlier for me...:eek: But the nice part is since I kept the stock filter housing it picks up the heat in the head and aids in heating the fuel even well after the heater has shut off.

Well I'm hooked up with the fuel heater and glad of it... :eek: Just looking back over my shoulder at the wireless thermometer its only 16*F above zero this morning. I know the small heater doesn't heat the fuel up very quickly...

Well... I went to Harbor Freight a few years back and got a good deal on my 21 gallon up right OILED compressor. Even though it a but slow on the CFM rate it does quite well will impact guns and such. But you right desn't matter if there OILED or OIL LESS they are both loud. I need to relocate mine into a cabinet in the shop. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94667

Hmmm... I don't see any puppies here yet....

Ok gang... How old are you?

Ok gang... Lets see them post up pictures of your trucks! Lets see what your driving! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=24 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=22

Well you might want to talk to JKidd about pump I hear he's got the beat price on them if it does wear out...

Shoot... I've got temps as low as 20*F so far and I'm not too worried... I just fire it up and drive easy for the first 5 miles and then drop the hammer on it... By the time I travel 5 miles I got 140-160*F worth of coolant. Then for lazy morning I kick the high idle... But that's not a 12V ability... But ISX you might want to talk to Taz about his high idle kicker he's got. :eek:

Here you go if you guys are looking for a way to stop people from right clicking on your web pages and taking your information here is a way to stop it... <script language=JavaScript><!--//Disable right click script III- By Renigade ([EMAIL="renigade@mediaone.net"]renigade@mediaone.net[/EMAIL])//For full source code, visit [URL]http://www.dynamicdrive.com[/URL]var message="";///////////////////////////////////function clickIE() {if (document.all) {(message);return false;}}function clickNS(e) {if (document.layers||(document.getElementById&&!document.all)) {if (e.which==2||e.which==3) {(message);return false;}}}if (document.layers) {document.captureEvents(Event.MOUSEDOWN);document.onmousedown=clickNS;}else{document.onmouseup=clickNS;document.oncontextmenu=clickIE;}document.oncontextmenu=new Function("return false")// --> </script> It work great there is no warning message or nothing...

Here is another wierd idea... Build a reverse AirBox that pulls warmed air from the turbo charger area. Kind of like the older gasser engine used to do pulling heated air from around the exhaust manifold. This would aid in the other problem your having with white smoke issues and grid heaters... But you would have to build a door oe butterfly to control the heated air and the cooled air. :confused:

MAUIBUILT give me a bit of time to get my computer up and running I need to dig a bit for ya... As for ECM's reasons for failure... http://autocomputersupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=15 Try them... :confused: http://autocomputersupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=116

Mike, This is my friends truck that I'm checking out now, he had posted this comment on another forum. (see below).I have a 2002 Dodge ram 2500 diesel that I am pulling a map and iat sensor code on. My mechanic thinks it is the ECM but is not sure. I only have about 1/4 of the pedal and then nothing happens after that. If anyone has had this problem and could help me I would appreciate it. Thanks Mike, I'll have to post this in a series since it has a bunch of info on it.Mike, all this took place before I actually had a chance to do any of the diagnostic testing listed below. This is what happened before I got my hands on this truck. Every one who or where he has drove the truck to and put a scanner this includes mechanics, parts stores and dealership came up with the two codes P0112 & P0237 low voltage from both IAT & MAP sensors componet failure according to the Dealership. Another thing to me of concern is that nobody including the dealership can't clear the check engine light and because I don't have a scanner yet but I performed the on and off with the Ignition key bunch of other codes showed up, (P0117, P0122, P0217, P0251, P0342, P0562, P0606, P1295, P1488, P1693, P0180, P0181, P0215). Why all these codes and no IAT or MAP sensor code now? He already replaced the IAT sensor since that was the cheapest still no change in performance. He has a new MAP sensor on order and should be arriving any day now. I told him that any parts changer can tell you that you need to change this part or another and maybe until it finalIy runs hopefully but then it can get very very costly.I performed voltage checks at the IAT, MAP, and coolant temp sensors and they all have around 5 volts going into them. I don't know what voltages are needed from the sensors going back to the ECM harness or ECM to test them and isolate if this is a defective wiring problem, poor ground, ECM, and or PCM. THESE ARE other symtoms that just started to occur after he drove it home from the dealership.The engine coolant temp gauge started to read max hot and drop right back down to cold, ( I checked that the engine isn't overheating). When you press down on the accellerator the engine coolant temp gauge goes up to max hot and then the engine RPM will drop down till idle then as the coolant temp drops back down to normal then the engine RPMS goes back up. I think the ECM is trying to shut the engine down when it senses the overheating from the Engine coolant temp sensor.This truck has 109,000 miles, K&N air Intake system, exhaust system and FASS lift pump. The VP44 pump was replaced about a year or 2 ago, and lift pump pressure is 15 lbs. at idle and drops till 11 lbs. if you floor it WOT.If anyone out there reading this forum had a similar problem and can help and got it fixed let us know. Mike,Do you know anyone who has the capability of testing out the ECM if I remove it from the truck, or do I just have to purchase a new one then have to take the truck and ECM down to the dealer and have it flashed?Thanks,MAUIBUILT