Mopar1973Man

Any kind of lead/acid battery that is maintainable... Mine are over 8 years old and still strong as ever. It all about maintenance of the battery and consideration for charging times. Then also how clean you keep the battery itself. Believe it or not dirt is a great path for current... I also take time now and then and overcharge the batteries to stir the acid/water mixture to keep it from rotting out the plates on the bottom. Alway use distilled water too... (Ramblin') So if I was to buy batteries it would be a good CCA rating battery for a average price. Maybe WalMart, NAPA or similar... You got to remember my entire house is power from batteries... They are closing in on 20 years old! :eek:

Yes... It does have 2 power levels... 2 grid heaters drawing 95 AMPs a piece for a total of 190 AMPs for both... Once going it uses just one grid heater to keep the air temp up...

Here is a new high idle video I recorded... Showing many new tidbits...

At one of my ex-girlfriends place we use to turn on the water in the bath tub at the same time we flushed to aid pushing those nasties down the tube to the main line... Never had a problem after that...

:lmao2:Dream on... I'm there... I'm in the middle of nowhere Idaho... The best I get is DSL with 1344 kbps down and 256 kbps up... It truely sucks... I'm going to call my provider and ****** about my service again just because I can... :eek:

Geez... That reminds me of my White German Shepherd I had named Star... She lived a long fuitful live and was quite the player... I used to have a act we her... I could walk in the house with a friend and just reach out and "WHACK" her right pu the head. (not forceful). But she would come un-glued and attack my arm and yank me all around. I'll call out "Cool it" and she sit down as like nothing happened... Then I tell mr buddies don't mess with the Dog you might lose!

Ummmm... Did you get a vacuum leak in the vacuum booster and loose your master cylinder too??? I've heard of tales of the vacuum booster failing and pull a vacuum on the master cylinder causing it to leak brake fluid into the manifold... Now if there is any truth in this I don't know... :confused:

Hmmm... remember hotrod VP44 doesn't last any longer than a Sotck VP44... Not to meantion that the HR VP44's don't take the electronics as well (programmers or box). HR VP44 are great for injector only systems...

If it was a bad fuel line you would be smelling gasoline everywhere... (But you never said anything about smell) Bad fuel is possible... (Did you try to put diesel in it? :eek:) Bad fuel filter... Typically a bad fuel filter has some signs of failure happening like with heavy load or WOT operation it will fall on its face and get worse with time. Bad pump... Well that just like the Cummins... Iusually just drops dead and that's that... So if I'm a betting man I would have to say pump... Second choice would be filter...

Yeap they (industry) have already produced the network interface that plugs into wall outlet for power line networking. So you could actually network your house with your current power line inside your home...

I hate to say it but Wireless is limited by FCC laws to 54 mbps... http://www.fcc.gov/cgb/broadband.html#Wireless

Well keep me posted I love to hear the end of this tale...

Well if your not wanting to tap the wire... I would say go for injectors and a Smarty. If you really want to kick in high geear then look for a Hotrod VP44 and go for 75 HP injectors... Then you'll make some serious power without tapping... But if you deside to come back to tap the wire I would suggest you use a Stealth Plate. It a perfect add on that basically uses a needle set screw then pierces the plastic under the lid of the VP44 and gets a water proof tap.

Well there is 2 sources of dead pedal... APPS sensor which with throw a error code every time (P0121, P0122 or P0123) VP44 which might or might not throw a code but there a a long list of them too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm

Well back to standard diagnostics... Hows the fuel pressure and do you have error codes? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Hmmm... Then I would disconnect the Edge for a while and check and see if the problem goes away...

Very good chance it is a fuel issue... How about fuel filter? Remember you need Fuel, Air, and Ignition to make a engine run... So if you can check and see if the plugs are firing good and solid then it would have to fuel issue. I doubt highly there is a air or compression problem.

Try hooking up to a 1 gbps connection... My router is limited to 100 mbps... So Even though my computer got a 1 gbps network card its not going to travel any faster than the other controllers and routers. So It all about tuning and matching equipment to get the most out of your computer... Simular case... I upgrade motherboard and had some PC4200 DDR II ram and desided to use it. So then upgraded and bought P6400 DDR II and used withe the PC4200 never the less the PC4200 was pulling the timing down... Yank out the P4200 and replace it with a match P6400 and now happy as hell... :thumbsup:

I'll give them a call on Monday and find out...

Well its only a one time thing on this particual truck...:confused: I can pull a MAP sensor or IAT sensor cause a code(s) on mine and pick them all up... I'm clueless... I'm wondering it it has something to do with the 2001 key trick problem... But even then the key trick showed all codes... :bang: Maybe I call them on Monday and see what up...:confused:

What your looking for is benchmark software... http://www.freshdevices.com/benchmarking_software.html Or my favorite which SiSoft SANDRA. http://www.sisoftware.net/ This is will show you max throughput or bandwidth of your drives...

Hmmm... Let me sleep on it and I'll dig up some good tools on tuning the network up... :biggrin:

Ok depends on what your looking to do? Are you in it for show or for the MPG's purely? 1. Stock or Smaller for MPG's if your going for show and willing to lose a few MPG go larger. 2. Hmmm... 285/75 R16 will go without a problem... Now going up from there you will get rub issues. 3. Depends on how big... :confused: 4. Hmmm... Never heard of it? Do you have a link to some information? :confused: 5. All depends on how much larger diameter your going. Stock is 31"... But to give you a feel here is a tire calc. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Comments in blue...

I got a few pics...

Lke my BHAF is over 5 years old and got 107K miles on it... Filter minder still not moving...:eek: