Mopar1973Man

When your done I want to see PICS of it! :thumbsup

Ok there has been request for information for the bulbs I'm using for fog lamps. I've update the 2 pages with bulb part number and pics... :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/ ... backup.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/ ... lights.htm

I wish I would of listem to most people out here soon and quit playing with Carter Campaign pumps and stock pumps... There completely garbage for a pump!

Wow... LiveOak you really got into that post didn't you! LOL :thumbsup

Like myself it no worse to find an old road sign laying in the ditch and take it home to chop pu fo winter fronts. I brushed the aluminum and used stainless steel bolts so it all match the grill yet... :thumbsup

You might hunt around the internet and you might be able to find a FSM for that car... I just checked over at PDFTown.com and they got owner manuals but no FSM for it... :confused: But that would help alot if you could find one...

OUCH... 8| Here is the error code book... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/pdf/error-codes.pdf P0216 - Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure High fuel supply restriction, low fuel pressure or possible wrong or incorrectly installed pump keyway. P0341 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Signal Problem with voltage signal from CMP. P1689 - No Communication Between ECM and Injection Pump Module Data link circuit failure between ECM and fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. P1690 - Fuel Injection Pump CKP Sensor Does Not Agree With ECM CKP Sensor Problem in fuel sync signal. Possible injection pump timing problem. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. Well you got a dead or dieing VP44 and Cam sensor which is below the VP44. P0216 and P1689 are death codes for the VP44... P0341 is a failure code for the cam sensor... And the P1690 usually follows because of lack of timing... Now we know what has failed... But why did it fail? How is you fuel pressure? But we know the answer there too... The lift pump is possilbe dead or dieinig too... This is the exact reason why a fuel pressure gauge is high recommended!

Yeap I've got the same stuff... The outer layer of mine is splitting a bit but still good...

Harry but those that do get better MPG with a DPF are typically long haulers... People that drive better than 300 miles per day...

I sure can tell when the I forgot to add my shot of 2 cycle oil... My truck sounds like everyone else in town... But with it it sure is quiet! :thumbsup

Actually let me help you with the error code... The error code is a companion code. Its normally always there with another code. So basically when the P1693 pops up it means you got to dig deeper and find the other code... You might have to get a hold of a code scanner and try again... Here is my write up for error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Actually most of the 2nd Gen crowd is at 128:1 ratio... The 3rd Gen Crowd is at 200:1 ratio... At least my little crowd... LOL Yea... I would love to pick your brain for all the great tidbit and get all that I can from you... :thumbsup Come on TexasDiesel spill the bean I want the dirt (or the oil of it!) LOL

I'm still playing with setting and outher stuff... But it going to get better with time... :thumbsup Thanks for the comment.. LOL

Well lets see what happen when they do or if the do start production of these filters... :confused: It would be nice though... :D

That's awesome to know... Most of the time I get asked about this and so far you and few other now are starting to leak out information of emmission testing with 2 cycle oil... :thumbsup

Well your hitting that mark for sure... LOL Ok a little verification... If the fuel your getting was at typical standards 520 HFRR than if you mixed at 200:1 you would hit at (520-162) = 358 HFRR But being you doubling you doze to the chart then it would be roughly (520 - (162 x 2)) = 196 HFRR. So in simple nmath your covered well even...

I got your answer the LiveOak... :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm

Pretty nasty eh? That fact that Bosch had done there homework long ago and found out the all US Fuel don't pass HFRR testing even before the ULSD started. ;)

Actually that was a mis print... I called PureFlow Tech. and got the update listing... Baldwin filter don't exist... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm Bottom of the page...

Yeah you right as emmission testing becomes a issue in your areas it will get tougher and tougher... so far out here it still rather quiet and nothing being said as far as emssion testing. The larger cities like Boise, ID does testing but I'm luck and live nearly 200 miles away... But as for 2 cycle oil usuage here I get weird look anyways... LOL

Well that would address the rusting problem... Like here we use a lot of salt and Mag Clorine for de-icer...So now how about the bracket do you come up with a source??? :confused:

Hmmm... side like you going to a wrecking yard to dig for part aren't ya??? But I'll give this much... Every weekend when I was my truck I wash the truck... I wash the body, engine and even under the body and frame... But knowing you got issues with your legs and all... I heard of some guys parking there truck on the lawn and sliding a sprinkler under the truck and let it run. It does work it will knock most of the mud off and keep it clean.. But since your down to rust now I would look into getting it undercoated when you can...

This should get you covered... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm 12V require more valve adjustment that 24V... But here is my write up for a 24V and it really close to the 12V... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ve-adj.htm

Oh Boy the document I was looking for... Quick summary of why IP pump and injections fail in Bosch eyes is the fuel lubricity is too LOW!!!! Here you go gang Bosch did testing on USA fuel and don't even come close to the standards of Europe fuel... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=5

If the rear e-brake shoe or out of adjustment the pedal doesn't alway return properly either... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... -brake.htm But typically in cold weather the cable does get stick and hang up. Sometimes you just got to park it a in a warm shop and wash the cables down and the dirt and grit off them. Then the pedal returns normally. I have this problem out here in the cold days of Idaho. I start out in Riggins, ID where is 45*F and raining and head back to New Meadows, ID where its 20*F and snowing now all that road grime and ice is form up on the cables. Now I set my brake (manual trans) and park it for the night. Next morning the brake won't release properly. BRAKE light on yet and the pedal hanging down...

Well so far this winter I've been down to about 0*F with SuperTech and no issues either. Not to mention my AirDog 150 is unheated and no problems with filter plugging... :thumbsup