Mopar1973Man

2.479 here in Riggins, ID if the Chevron was open... :rolleyes Now i'm below 1/4 tank and getting down to the point were I start sucking air below 1/8 of tank... :mad Oh well... Live and learn...

Possible... It always possible to have a tank of poor produced fuel... :confused:

Like I read over that PDF already... The biggest thing is the viscosity of the fuel changes spray patternes of the injectors. So as the B5 starts thickening up the pattern narrows... It seem like all BIO fuels have a short comings... Like ethanol is greatly reduced in BTU content. BioDiesel is also short in BTU content, gels easy, cause injector problems if produced wrong.... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=117

Well without much for information... Bad ground, weak batteries, weak charging system... (Possiblity) Loose or corroded wiring... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ircuit.htm (This will work anywhere in the electrical system for testing weak connections or bad wires!) Heat effecting the electronics (VP44 or ECM) but error codes typically point this out. Fuel pump problems... No the little white plastic hub isn't suppose to come out... It's glued in at the factory but most of the fuel additives tend to break down the glue and the plastic hub starts to spin inside the hub so you hear the pump buzz but it doing nothing. This can happen randomly too..

I think a bunch of mine is these Cooper STT tire and running them slightly soft right now for winter traction. But as for my front end It still feels tight but is seem to wander back and forth in the trucker grooves in the asphalt... Or is it just the highway my problem??? :confused:

Hmmm... Sound like a few possible thing could be happening... Cam or Crank sensor is going out on you... If the tach drops to zero usually the cam or crank sensor is to blame but typically there is a error code. P1693 means there is a error code in either ECM or PCM or both. That all the code means... But if you using a code reader like a ScanGauge II it should pickup all the codes for you... As for the lack of power that automatically points to fuel supply problem either the lift pump, VP44, or filter is plugged Here is how to test your lift pump... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... p-daig.htm You need to keep at least 10 PSI at the VP44 to keep it happy... As for the previous APPS post well that would have a P0121, P0122, or P0123 error code pointing to failed APPS...

About how much did it cost???

Fixed...

There is no reason for injector cleaners... If there is a concern of dirt entering the injecotrs that upgrade your fuel filter to 2-3 microns once you done that there is zero concerns for injector cleaners ever again. But as for the fuel lubricant... Today's fuel is short in fuel lubicity and will remain that way for a long time. So 2 cycle oil should be used every tank... Mixing any cetane booster, injector cleaner, or anti-gel with 2 cycle oil just cancels out the 2 cycle and the additive... Cetane Booster - Increase cetane levels and reduces BTU's 2 Cycle Oil - Decreases Cetane and increase BTU's Injector Cleaner - Decrease lubricity 2 Cycle Oil - Increases lubricity

For those guys that have filter minders or BHAF with a filter minder. I made a short video how to test your filter minder... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/ ... f/bhaf.htm You'll find that the suction is about the same amount as would put on a drinking straw in a large drink. EDIT LINK corrected...

Got ya cover with a write up on how to replace and where to find a cheap one for less than $200 bucks! :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... s/apps.htm Retro-fit APPS sensor for less! :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... cement.htm

Remember you got the holes in the bumper and then the gap between the grill and bumper. so no it takes quite a bit to over heat it... But it block and lot of cold air from blowing in.

First of WELCOME to MOPAR1973MAN.COM Yeap that is over kill... Let say the fill up was 25 gallons of fuel... So at 128:1 ratio should of been 25 ounces of oil (Heaviest mixture) And at 200:1 ratio should of been 16 ounces of oil (tyipcally where most 3rd gen get ther best...) And at 256:1 ration should of been 12.5 ounces of oil (lightest mixture) Here is the math for it... Convert gallons of fuel to ounces... 128 x (Gallons of fuel) = Ounces of fuel Ratio fo fuel to oil... 3,200 Ounces (Fuel) / 200 (Ratio) = 16 Ounces

Thread got old so the new write up is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm Yeap and even got pics... :thumbsup

Adding anthing thing to your fuel can be illegal...ATF, WEO/WMO, WVO, 2 cycle oil, gasoline, kerosene, JP8, Jet-A Etc... If its not Diesel it not legal... Yes if you are dipped you could be fine...But this is a risk I'm willing to take to protect my fuel system with a small dose of 2 cycle oil.But if there so willing to bust people boy I'm in a bad place... I'm sittinig here with my web site advertising my address and phone number... Come and get me! But after 3 years of being on the web and forums... Nothing has happened... The local cops even in truck know I do this... 8| I'm not worried... :D

ScanGauge II doesn't show the MAP sensor value correctly... It about 28.6 PSIA at idle and tops out at about 37.7 PSIA... Normal atomsphere should be 14.7 PSIA then 30 PSI of boost should be (30+14.7) which is 44.7 PSI. I'm current trying to find a alternate XGauge for that problem... P0236 - Map Sensor Too High Too Long Problem detected in turbocharger wastegate. Do you have a smoke switch? If so and leaving it on will cause this error... Do you have a enhancement box (Edge comp)? Unplugging the MAP sensor does the same thing as a smoke switch. By chance could you fill out you signature I could help you out better... ucp.php?i=profile&mode=signature

Ok here is some light on the subject... Here is what Eric at ATS had to say... Well this adds a change of heart for me... It not cool for a person to raid you email for information and publicly post information that could ruin your business...

Wow! We are having a heat wave today... 22*F LOL But in a couple days we'll be back down to -7*F... :mad Now as for the weather part... I just got done on the phone trying to get ITD (Idaho Transportation Dept) to come down and plow in front of the fire shed. Then just thinking about the cold... How in the hel to you keep a fire truck from freezing up while you travel to a fire? Passed it on to my Assistant Chief... No answer yet but since my mind was clickin' I got him think about calling the hot shot cre together and train us properly for cold weather fire fighting. The other problems is how do you stop a 40K pound fire truck on ice? (I know very carefully!) Then how do you drive one that is 2 wheel drive only and no chains??? (Make it more interesting!) But all of our 6 wheel drive militaries are to far for me and parked on top of a mountain currently (chained up!).Oh then some of our trucks rarely get used but what if the fuel tanks are filled with summer fuel at -7*F??? (Think it will gell? Good bet!) So there considering getting PS 911 and PS White bottle for these trucks. As I point out to him I've had good luck with winterized fuel and 2 cycle oil... But as for sumerized and 2 cycle oil I don't think will work! I got the higher heads thinking on this now... LOL

The orignal source of this leeter for me was from CF.com at... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/off-t ... s-epa.html Personally I think this is wrong... :nono

Well so far we are down to 0*F to 5*F above for low temps... Like yesterday we barely made it 14*F as a high... Man it sucks when you park a truck outside and the ice freezes to the hood and there not enough engine heat to thaw it out... :confused

Picture help... Take a look for some reason the pics are fine here...

I konw this is really common for newbie to panic to see the headlight dim and get bright again... So I wrote up a quick page for grid heater functions and this is totally normal! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... heater.htm

I've seen several complaints of hard starting or slow cranking. Some of this is just the starter contacts have gone bad or the battery terminals are dirty. But after that you should look at the master cables that feed the starter. You got to remember that the starter on a cold winter morning is going to draw nearly 700 Amps to twist these big brutes over... But more about the testing here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ircuit.htm

I konw there is everal people on here that have had problems with coolant system leaks, head gaskets, or heater cores. Most of these failures are caused from a acid or basic coolant. Even though the coolant is green doesn't mean that coolant is still good. Eventually the coolant starts becoming acid or basic and causes problems by eats the metal around it... Here is more on this subject... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... -flush.htm

Well gang... I got a write now for the CCD netwrok and how it operates. So for those of you that have the CCD error on your overhead console and weird problems with the ABS/Brake lights and maybe the gauge cluster I would day its a CCD network problem... So go here and read up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm