Mopar1973Man

Fan clutch on 98.5 and 2002 are LEFT HANDED THREADS! To loosen is towards the driver side battery.

Very interesting... Thank you for the photo I think I've been in one of those but not sure.

Typically it about the engine load and the idle RPM. Typically the ECM aims for 800 RPM when the idle validation switch on the APPS is grounded. (Idle position). Now as the injector get older and more mileage the springs get weak inside and injectors start popping lower. This start to increase the duration of the injectors being open. Naturally the idle would rise so the ECM attempts at defueling that and pulling it down hence why the engine load start going down. Now once it hits 0% the ECM can no longer defuel any deeper and so the idle RPM start to rise up. ECM can't hit the 800 RPM target so the engine load is at 0% and idle speed continues to climb as the injectors continue to wear out. If you have a APPS issue and the IVS isn't getting ground signal at the moment of idle then the idle could be higher than the target 800 RPM being now the ECM is told to follow the APPS signal when the idle validation is not grounded. This is why I always suggest a Timbo APPS and ditch the entire voltage adjustment thing. Normal Idle RPM is 800 RPM +/- 10 Normal engine load is typically 5 to 15% of good injectors. Below 2% you on borrowed time and soon the injectors will be failing.

@dripley I've got the fan clutch wrench and the holder tool for the fan. Pretty cheap to add to your tool box. I'll pull it out later on and get a photo of it all.

I think I know what he means there other background noises you'll hear like a thumping noise, the turbine whistle, and other things depending on the setup.

Would you mind shooting a picture of those land rovers. I'm very curious what it looks like.

Wait till you upgrade turbos and there is no silencer ring option, then BHAF added then it just there you can't reduce the noise very much.

Don't bother with a Cummins... I would do wagner or four seasons.

I'm also set for 320 bar on 7 x 0.010 injectors. Smoke free till the wire tap hit then a poof and clear again. Also running HX35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12).

Let me clean up your Windows link to... https://www.simplyfilter.com/AIRHOUSING-p/ah1139.htm Linux doesn't copy all the adlink crap.

@NIsaacs could you list that housing you go a link or something I'm curious...

My filter minder NEVER moved even after 150k miles of dirt road travel.

Only thing I can say very very rare for fuel tanks to explode. First the tank has to be steel and not soldered like the old 70's. Then the new fuel tanks are simply ABS and typically the plastics get hot and the fuel just drains out. Since I completed Fire Fighter One and Fire Fighter Two, plus wild-land training. Even Propane tanks don't exploded typically. they just vent off. I've only seen one time where a extremely hot house fire that was enough to cause a propane tank to explode. As for vehicle fuel tank they are designed with weaken so when in accident then the tank will fail in a minor fire typically. Like most of the newer fuel caps are plastic also if the filler neck got hot it would shot the cap like a pea in a straw. As for exploding car fires in all the years chasing vehicle fires never have I see a fuel tank explode. This includes from hybrid cars, to old chevy pickups, and full sized semis truck with over 200 gallons of diesel. Just doesn't happen like the movies. Fuel tank gone... Take notice the ground around the truck is not burnt. Tank got hot and drop it contents and wicked and burned under the truck.

293 bar is 4250 psi which is minimum by Factory Service Manual... Stock is 310 bar which is 4500 PSI. Then the upper end is 327 bar which is 4750 PSI.

Exactly... People should be able to get the specs to at least make the vehicle close to right to safely drive to a alignment shop to be completed. I know the each and every vehicle is a bit different in the angles and allowances. Just seems weird they made that illegal.

Here as far as I made it in under 2 hours and just about ready to pluck the head off. My down fall is I need to removed everything off the cowl cover and remove the wipers and pull the last batch of push rods and then start unbolting the head and pulling studs. Mine is leaking in the exact same spot but engine oil not coolant.

Really? No one is allow to work on there own vehicles...

95% of all washable filter end up this way after about 3 to 5 washing of the filter. After spending over $100 on the filter it doesn't hold up to a few washings and then passing dirt from the get go. Paper filter is better way to go... BHAF for 2nd Gens.

Which I had alignment specs for people at this point.

Yeah I know the feeling... I think I've got a permanent hood latch rash on my lower part of my ribs.

Send me a support ticket an we will handle this privately.

I was extending out to 100k which was too long the coolant was turning acidic. Now it starts to weaken the gaskets and any seals that are in contact with the coolant.

If your close to me I can change injectors in about an hour or so. More than willing too.

Because the nozzle most likely is smaller so they decrease the the pop pressure to increase flow and injection happens early. So to make it flow like X sized injectors they decrease it to get more lift. Like my old 7 x 0.0085 (+75 HP) I had DAP make them and they where popped at 305 bar with SAC tips. Stalling was very common. Come to a traffic light or stop sign it would drop and stall. I had the injectors sent back changed for VCO tips same size and increased to 310 bar. Stalling stopped. My current 7 x 0.010 (+150 HP) I had my stock bodies inspected and then installed the nozzles and popped them back to 320 bar. Still running these injectors. No issues at all. With the bar set for 320 bar I need to add more timing being they do fire a bit late.

Another issue fixed.. bad crank sensor. Finalized the install of the sensor its held in with a Allen screw. It's kind of hard to spot with crap ton of dirt and grease. Verified the tach signal against a live data tool its about -100 behind the tach on the dash but not bad. Reset the two codes for crank sensor performance and Crank Sensor A circuit issue. Sorry I didn't keep the error codes...