Mopar1973Man

Yes. It just fire protection if the alternator shorts out. Make sure your cable is up to the task too. Upgrade to heavier cable would be a bonus.

Yes hot wiring would remove the ECM from the running. The VP44 will only idle. If you had the black box it would have a high idle switch.

Agreed we just got slammed with snow and now flip to bright sunny day reaching 59*F Riggins.

Make sure to drive the truck a good 10 minutes and test again. Grid heaters running will make the number inflated. You will always gain more noise at high loads IIRC the test stands in part store typically fail somewhere at 1.1 to 1.4 volts AC at full load. Lowest number here is best.

Oh there a lot of us out here that have no belief in the Green New Deal to fix the world's problems. Tell our government to disband these HAARP stations.

Yours held up quite well my friend mine on the other had gave up. I've still got my factor power steering pump I might tear it down and see about fixing my OEM pump which work wonderful all these hundreds of thousands miles.

Your always a friend here... If you just need a ear to listen to let you vent my phone is always their for you. No matter what happens you have tfriends here and we are still here to help out with anything.

The sad part is someone as a member here or members have had this kind of problem. Hence we post about it and share what is going on and create articles so we don't forget how to fix said issues. This what makes M73M different from other web forums. We work to solve puzzles and then save the solution to the said puzzle as an article. That way other members that find their selves in this issue have a much greater chance of fixing said issues.

Boise, ID will be like 63*F on Thursday... Up here in New Meadows be close to 59*F by Thursday. The part that worries me is the sudden change is weather and possible flooding might occur or mudslides.

Remember fuses... ALWAYS CARE SPARES! Stock ND or Bosch alternator is rated for only 136A DC. Like my friend Russ I did the W-T ground mod on his truck. First started with 150A circuit breaker. He burned that one up. Then I swapped mine in known mine works correctly. Burned it up too. Then swapped to a fuse he blew the fuse on the alternator left him stuck. I had to order more fuses. Once I did he managed to blow one more fuse before I figure out his batteries where dead and he was doing long pulls with his winch and never allowing the batteries to catch up. Then the alternator attempt to hold the voltage at 14.3 or so but the winch draws more than the batteries and alternator could provide. The wattage load is not changing at this point while the winch is running for so under normal conditions its a 4,350 watt load, which now add in the weak batteries so the voltage falls to 10 volts or so now do the math... So instead of 300 amp to run the winch it jumps up to 435 amp because the batteries are weak and then the current draw on the alternator maxes out and POP goes the breaker or fuse. This is not the alternators fault... It the dead batteries that cause it. The alternator job was never to try and hold the entire electrical load. Its the batteries job to hold the entire electrical load but the job of the alternator is when the loads are reduced to recharge the batteries again. Gotta remember not to long ago the 1970's vehicles (Dodge Cars and Trucks) only had either 45A alternator or 60A alternator.

Injectors are not properly pop tested. Injectors installed incorrectly causing pressure leaks in the head. When you installed the injectors what did you tighten first the cross over tube or the injector hold down cap? Correct Answer is Crossover Tubes always first light seat the tubes into the injectors before pinning the injector down with the hold down cap. Once you tightened the hold down cap first then the injector can't self center to make a good seal on the cross over tube. Did you have the injectors pop tested and flow matched? Good idea to have them all tested and flow match for that group of 6 injectors instead of 6 random injectors toss in a box and not verified. As for misfire hot is a sign the pop pressure is typically too low or there is high pressure leak inside the head from installing incorrectly.

I went the extra step and relocated the pressure sensor to fender adding 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line to allow for more fade time for the pulse to reach the sender.

Ok. You need a snubber installed before the pump and stack on the sensor. Similar to this...

2000 up should all be fly by wire cruise control. The vacuum motor for cruise was used for Automatic transmission mostly for the throttle valve cable. Manuals switched over to fly by wire being there is nothing mechanical needed to be move or pulled. If you just take in account of all the little things that changed from 98.5 to 02 for our truck you would be surprised. Crank sensor relocated to cam sensor the actual cam sensor function was removed. Vacuum cruise to fly by wire for manuals. Full disc brakes from drum rear brakes. RWAL upgraded to full 4 wheel ABS 3 MAP sensor changes. 53 block. Which they upgrade to fix this. Killer dowel pin gear case change to prevent this. This is just a small sample of the changes in 4.5 years.

Basically you can buy a rebuilt ND or Bosch alternator. BEFORE leaving the store make sure to have the new one bench tested. I've actually bought brand new alternators that are bad in the box. Now once that is done then make sure to do the W-T ground wire mod, then you might want to do the PCM protection fuse mod. Have both batteries tested if one fails replace both. Then do a voltage drop test of all the cables. Ground wire mod reduces the AC noise considerably for the entire truck... The alternator protect fuse mod stops any kind of short to the blue wire from burning up your PCM. Then the voltage drop test can be used anywhere in the system to measure voltage loss on cables and connection so they can be repaired.

Just take a moment of time and look over the fact the US Gov't has the means of controlling weather. Using HAARP which has been around for quite some time patent was filed in 1987 by a Dr. Bernard Eastlund. Yes, all the Gov't knows about this and has been in operation since the 1987. Like change the ozone layer? Hmm.... https://www.wanttoknow.info/war/haarp_weather_modification_electromagnetic_warfare_weapons

Yup. I talked to Jacob Kidd at @dieselautopowerabout 2 years ago and he told me he's stock a 62/68/12 turbo that is exhaust brake ready. Kind of pricey back then... I'm sure it still is... I get it... Right now I'm trying to save the money for the clutch on the 2006 Dodge so I get it to roll soon. Even that ruck needs a $230 dollar wastegate control valve.

Most likely the bounce is most people install the sensor right at the VP44 and the water hammer kills the sensor in a mere few months. NEVER hook a pressure sensor directly to the VP44 this is the source of the water hammer. Even my fuel pressure gauge is 5 feet from the VP44 on 1/8" brake line mounted to the fender. It's not the engine vibration like so many tout, actually its the water hammer and the distance allows the pulses to fade. I've got both a snubber at the tap point and a needle valve to shut down this leg of he plumbing if a failure would to happen.

Most likely software related. Being the only thing different is the software. Technically the guts of the ECM is the same except for the early one have EPROM issues. When you use a Smarty or SuperChips tuner after about 1,000 flashes the ECM dies. Being there is like 50 so odd different version of software for each year of truck for the 4.5 years of VP44 ECMs. Make sure the Quadzilla high idle is turned off. Like @Me78569warned about mixing the two can have some weird issues with running. Not a happy truck.

Ummm... DAP has a 62/86/12 that will work with a exhaust brake! Ask @dieselautopowerabout the turbo... I want to buy it but bills first...

Most like pretty expensive for that ride being diesel.

Because the ECM has already lost it mind from the high AC voltage. Hence the P0606 code. Now with margin parts inside the ECM all it takes is a bit of heat and it gives up.

Hmmm... Maybe because the timing piston is seized up and the pump is constantly calling for advancement and the solenoid get hot from constant having voltage applied. Now like this pump I took apart the timing piston was so seized up I need a propane torch and heat the entire body around the timing piston to even pull it out. Back to the solenoid and it heat. So if the timing piston is stuck and ECM is calling for advancement 100% of the time but the timing piston isn't moving of course the solenoid would be hot and P0216 code present. Typically like we call it the death code because there is nothing left to do but replace the pump. Even if you had the tools to pull the piston out and replace the harden steel sleeve and the timing piston you still don't have the Bosch 815 test stand to recalibrate the PSG to the new timing piston then flash the new calibrate o the PSG. Then most of the people here have been doing pumping and return fuel back to the fuel basket in the fuel tank. I'm not... I draw straw out of the tank directly. My fuel temp rarely are ever above 140*F but if you coming out of the sender basket in the tank you fuel temps can be as high as 160*F. Being I'm running the Quadzilla I can monitor the fuel temp. As for timing I can only see the "commanded timing" not the actual timing. Even when my last pump got stuck FULL advanced I could see the commanded timing that was normal but here is my truck barely doing 30 MPH and knocking hard from the advanced timing. As you see my fuel temp and IAT run tag team.

Yeah I get it... The COVID-19 and the stress of today put a lot of stress on the relationship too. Sorry for the break up.

ECM is fried from AC noise damage is done. This is the second round of P0606 code so I'm sure that your ECM needs to be rebuilt. Fail. Anything over 0.05 is a fail... So yeah the alternator cooked the ECM...