Mopar1973Man

I'm going to be dropping to below zero next week and still silent pump and the system no issues. The pump is most likely creating plenty of pressure it just then there is a restriction of the pressure getting to where it needs to go. That noise is created when the pressure has nowhere to go or the flow is restricted. Then you hear the pump whine. This morning... What it's like outside in the yard... My truck is NOT plugged in. Last weekend we took a road trip to Warm Lake, Idaho. This is looking back towards Cascade ID. (Black white photo)

2 cycle oil has a pour point of -40°F which at 128:1 ratio should help with blocking gelling. Fuel supply should be already using PPD in the fuels nation wide just in the south not as strong. Im starting out super cold here. Now I'm heading to Lewiston ID.

I would put a small trickle charge on them over night. Both battery are down in charge.

Not that I want it deleted... I want the information to remain. I just can't server 17 years of data fast enough with a 8 CPUs. Now neck it down to the last year I can sever that faster. This way the last 16 years is stored in a different database table unloading the stress in the server. You have to consider there is up to 2,700 people coming every day and having to hunt through 18 years of data to post the current thread takes time. This drops the time of the software trying to find the information in over nearly 400 MB of information when there is 242,721 item to check to find. Just dropping that older than 1 year off the search has gain the system speed back especially when there is usually 190 to 250 people on at one time and asking the server for the next thread, post, item etc. The only table bigger is the display cache at a bit more than ~300 MB. Just remember there is HUGE database here holding a total of ... 1.1 MILLION entries and over 1.3 Gigabytes worth of data contained in 250 tables. Remember Mopar1973Man.Com has been operating since Summer 2004 and the data is all still here. Just anything older than 1 year is archive for read only now. This also reduces the need to having a table that needs to read and write. The archive is only a READ table now... Just consider... [--] Up for: 4d 3h 40m 42s (20M q [55.777 qps], 510K conn, TX: 181G, RX: 36G) It doing 20 MILLION queries in 4 days, at a rate of 55.777 queries per SECOND... Already sent 181 GB of information in 4 days and received 36 GB. Lot of data flying around... Then consider traffic is not slowing down... Since November when we change to subscription based.

Unknown, but the entire headlights and fog light are controlled by the TIPM. There is zero relays in this system. Then the only fuses are the ones you see. Nothing more. This is not like our old school 2nd gen with a fog lamp relay, fog lamp fuse, etc. This is not there in the 3rd gen up with TIPM. After fighting with a 2006 with a headlight malfunction that you could turn on the headlights with the switch but you pull the multifunction switch back for dimmers the wipers would come on and hi beams. Turn signal only worked to the right but no left. Again this is all based on a CANBus message getting back to the TIPM to turn on and off these functions but not working correctly. My only solution to you is call a module rebuilder like "Module Master" in Moscow ID and see. They will also test before they start to see what is actual wrong or not working correctly.

No you just got to start a new thread it keep from "necromancy" from happening as we Admin's call it. You not bring old information back to life. This way its all new and fresh when you start your thread because information, knowledge could change in a mere year. Yes it could but you have to contact a rebuild that is knowledgeable of doing this reprogram. Yes you may link to it but you will not be able to reply. No, not necessarily. It just a speed trick also not to hold 18 years of data in a single database and force the software to hunt through 18 years of data to find the next post. When you tell the system to archive anything older than 1 year now the last 17 years at still visible but you can't reply. Now the system only has to search through the last year of data to render post for the current topic. The archive method also stops necromancy which is finding any old thread with old info and bring it back to life and trying to update it. Now you make a 100 page thread out of something and now people have to read all the pages to understand. Now if you force that old thread to stop and force the member to start over now fresh and new information can be glean from you new topic, instead rehashing old stuff. For example some wanted to talk about the old Carter stock lift pump I'm sure there is a ton of topics of that it would be bad if someone "necromancy" a few back to life from 2006. Why would we back up time to revisit some old info being there is much better solutions today that Carter stock lift pumps. At the same time I don't want to remove history of where we came from.

LEDs have that issue even the ones in my 1996 dodge do this as well with icing over. Sad to say even my $350 PIAA LED driving lights ice over as well. Now my Morimoto D2S can ice over to only in really bad storms. Typically it can hold a small hole to shine through. The only thing that holds up good in subzero is halogen I';m sorry to say.

1989 to 2002 are strictly "Power Steering Fluid" 2003 to current are are strictly "ATF+4" Why the switch because the old school Sagnaw box was replaced all Ford Hydrobooster and Ford Steering box. You cannot put ATF in a power steering fluid system because the seeals are not design for it nor is the pump design to pump something that thin. Reason for hmm and buzz noise is debris lodged in the power side of either hydro booster or the steering box. With everything is in the neutral position (brake pedal and steering wheel) the pump should just free flow back on the return line. If it humming or grunting like its applying pressure you might have a plugged passage. I've keep my system clean with every 30k miles I dump, flush and refill the system. Never once had a issue in 428k miles and counting. Never used synthetics either, no need. So from 2003 on to current the steering system is fully Ford. Hence the use of ATF+4 for the system. Matter of fact I just had @Blue-Top Steeringrebuild a 2005 Steering box which I get to install this weekend.

Running 245/75 R16 tires, super easy to spin the steering. I've got a quick ratio Blue Top Steering box. Just run NAPA power steering fluid. (Not synthetic). I just went to McCall ID and it was barely +9°F outside. Super tight steering, no Humm of the pump. NOTE: Do not attempt to use a quick ratio box on oversized tires, ratio is not enough for pulling the tires and gear box damage will occur. Oversized tires needs the standard ratio to ease stress on the steering box like running 4.10 axle gears for 35 inch tires and up.

ONLY if the high idle software is enabled. Once enabled it will be rather random hit miss. Be8ng based on IAT to start. Then if you had my switch then you can command what you want.

There is no controls for high idle. It must meet the sensors requirements. The is no steering wheel control like 3rd gens. Hence why the high switch was made to give control over it.

Can you write a bit of code to show the variable for the vanes so you can see if they are actually be set right or is there another bit of code over riding your value. I sometime fight web code the same way and just plop in a more or less "print X" and look at what the software is doing. I've made coding mistakes where the set value was being over written by anothe command.

TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) this is what actually turns on the fog light. Double check the fuses. Beyond that the fog light are turned on by CANBus message not by a voltage switch we all know. Like the multifunction switch is a mere 5 wires on CANBus system. The headlight switch and fog light controls again are all CANBus message. If you have a second truck with TIPM you can swap it fast in a few minutes just need tools to pull the power lead from the stud. No relays in this system just the TIPM...

Good Gawd... If you boys quit playing with Microsoft Windows and jump to Linux its easy as pie. My PDF viewer has a DOWNLOAD button. Any PDF that I can open on the Internet I can download the entire document then edit the document if needed.

I've got an option for about $2000 for a front mounted snow blower for my ATV but this winter has bee a joke. I've not even shoveled snow at home to clean the step but once. The storm that came did less than 1/2 inch last night. NOAA is calling for 4 to 8 inches here and +10 inch above 6000 feet. I know all you seen me pushing snow with my ATV... I've not even had a good chance at doing that this winter at all.

Ah you ran into the archive section. When post are over 1 year old I would archive the threads for reading only. I would rather have threads start over fresh and new information that might be present today than dragging open a thread might not be current info.

Like the story about the $500 2006 Dodge 3500 I bought the title was here in like less than 7 days. You living in Oregon where the snowflakes want what you have without working for it.

Yes it could... Even though the block heat might make 90 to 100*F temp b ut blowing outside air can upll that down. Then when you start the activation of the high idle 6 CYL just needs. Coolant below 140*F IAT below +32*F with grid heater running. 3 CYL... Coolant below 140*F IAT below +15*F with grid heaters running.

IAT temp has to be below 32°F with the grid heaters running. So it's got to be colder than 32°F to actually trigger 6CYL high idle.

Now your back to replacing the multifunction switch...

Still the fact the issue never changed between new or old part. Same results. If it wasn't right I should got some change like nothing or all working.

Yes. I've got one left let me correct the store... POOF! (Magic dust every where). One sitting on my desk.

Be aware without a tuner the stock ECM is fairly retarded in timing so it does emit more smoke because of this. Then the ECM doesn't know there is a change from Stock to +50 or +75 so the fuel map will be too fat and tends to smoke on launching. Then EGT's will be higher being the retard state of timing. Bigger the injectors the more timing you need to make it efficient. Like I'm running close to 21* @ 2k RPM's. Stock is like 14* @ 2k RPM's. Matter of fact... I've been talking to @dieselautopower (Jacob Kid) and there might be a spot for me as a "tuner tech" for Quadzilla. Still working out how we are going to do this. I've had another vendor ask if I would build tunes for their customers as well. This is still in the "works" right now but soon...

6 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <32*F with grid heaters actively heating. Typically close to 25*F outside. 3 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <15*F with grid heaters actively heating. Typically close to +5*F outside. Quadzilla anything below your set "Warm up" temp will lock the tuner to level 0. Then waits the delay and then starts 1,200 High idle.

I would say it depends on the tuner that is going to control the timing and fuel aspect of the injectors. Like my old problem was my Edge Comp only basically stacked on +2 or +3 degrees of timing on top of the stock table for the most part. This is part of the fight of why Economy on the Edge sucked. You had to keep your engine load down by slowing down to get the good numbers. The fuel table was more or less treated the same way. Edge Comp had super poor control of fuel and smoke even with +50HP injectors. Consider your tuner. Like today I run just about smokeless on my normal level 2 (stock fuel and added timing) or level 3 (CanBus Fuel and timing). I can handle +150 HP injectors no problem towing even is awesome being close to 18,000 pounds and over 60 feet long and no EGT's issues. ILLEGAL ACTIVITIES Yesterday I knew that @Wet Vette went to the doctor appointment in McCall. She called and ask if I wanted something before she came home from McCall. I was finishing up down at the other shop (Russ). I packed up myself and ran back up canyon towards New Meadows, Found a nice pull out facing toward home and just waited. Eileen found me and pulled over I told her I wanted to "play" on the way home. Needless to say she snagged lead leaving the pull out and as we broke out of the canyon on the first straight I wound the Cummins up passing her at +90 MPH easy and took the lead from her in her Hyundai Elantra. Then we proceeded as a team to run over 80+ in 65 MPH down the windy canyon towards home. Ran like this for over 7 miles and never missed a beat. Pulling corners marked for 65 MPH at 80+ MPH the whole way back. Fresh track bar and Blue Top Steering it was running like a slot car. Eileen stayed tuck in at my rear bumper. Both of use had to hit the 100 mark at least once. Even with 30 inch tires ratio (3.69:1) is awesome pulls super strong on the top end. Brought me back to my old street racing dayz once again. I felt like a teenager once again. Needless to say it was a head rush!!! Both got home smiling...