Mopar1973Man

Always got a kick out of majority of people that are upgrading batteries to large CCA and keep saying it start so much better in minus weather. I bet that these people have weak cables or excessive voltage drop in the main cables and making up for the weak connection with larger batteries. I'm up north too and see minus weather off and on and never needed to upgrade to Group 31 batteries... Like I said stock was 750 CCA and I'm only 810 CCA now still starting strong every morning for 19 years and 429k miles and rolling. Like the last 2 winters my truck has been outside for the entire winter, no block heater.

I've seen several trucks with high dollar cold air intake with blacken turbos from the amount of dust and debris passed through the compressor wheel. BHAF is the best option for clean air for your 2nd Gen.

I've seen cases where the head was cracked and pushing compression gases back in the fuel by the return line. What I would do is check the return line for excessive air blowing through. There is a quick connector there near the starter and you can add a piece of clear vinyl tubing to see the fuel as it travels. You can use a long piece and route it back to the fuel tank filler neck. Then you can start the engine and watch for air being introduced to the fuel. Usually a pump that is sucking air tends to lose prime quick after shutting down being the air continues to bubble into the line and return fuel to the tank dropping the pump prime. This would be seen after restarting as a sudden drop in fuel pressure to zero typically and then regains pressure within a few seconds typically. This is a air leak in the suction line typicaly.

Not suppose to let any positive pressure out, it's never suppose to created. This would be a sign of bad injector copper washer or loose injector or cracked head. As for vacuum is will allow vacuum to flow to equalize the tank as fuel is drawn in.

Should never vent air when removing the cap this mean the vent on the tank is plugged up. Just as shown the grey fitting is the vent and it does have a rollover valve too is if the truck is up-side-down then the valve will block fuel from draining. Very possible to have the valve plugged with mud which is common with pups that like 4x4 in deep mud.

That sound correct.

Terrain what makes it look like that. In a flat field it shows the full size of the pattern. Bank on the left to taper out the pattern then the patter to the right is a river bank dropping down below. Like I said I'll see about going out for some pictures tonight.

Not a very straight cut off... Possibly blind people there. So your hi part the beam hump would be the point you would have to lower to keep that out people's eyes. Morimoto HID and PIAA LEDs within the envelope of the Morimoto beam path. Still cut off straight. Nothing is above my cutoff line light wise and never blind anyone on lo beam. Hi Beam different story. The path of light is about 20 foot out my driver side past the ditch and then the passenger side another 50 foot in the field, then the top of the bean is over 50 foot tall at 1/2 mile or so. You can see that full 1/2 mile ot the corner and there is a little trailer parked on the hillside road. This is why I'll challenge anyone tell me old school lights reflector style is going to light better and also keeping the light out of everyones eyes. Just can't do it with reflector styled lights.

Your first link, I can tell you those are poor quality as well comparing to the Morimoto HID's. I've got several pups out here running those and still no where as good as the HID's. Most of them are looking for better lights yet even with these... http://www.anzousa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/1/111065_11.jpg Problem is the still using a halogen dual filament or LED dual filament. hi/lo has to be reflected out the lens yet. Where Morimoto HID is a single filament and uses a shutter to make hi and lo beam cut off exact.

This right here would make me cringe now flipping bulbs positions trying to make a good light pattern. Being the reflector is going to reverse the pattern again. be careful you not changing elevation of the cutoff. Still the bad part is no matter what you do with bulbs and types of bulbs the pattern is only as good as the reflector. If the reflector part of the headlight is low quality then the rest of the pattern going to be poor regardless of what brightness of bulb, LED or Halogen the pattern will be poor. Again like my 1996 Dodge I went LEDs and Clear lens headlights. The reflectors or poor quality so the pattern is too. It might be brighter but hotspotted on the pavement. I'm going to see about get @Wet Vetteto run my 1996 Dodge out to a open area and let you compare both trucks. 1996 Dodge 1500 with clear lens headlights and LED's bulbs -= VS. =- 2002 Dodge 2500 with Morimoto HID's.

Don't sweat it I figured it on my own... You must of had a bird brained moment.

I wonder if he will actually pull it off. Seem every time Trump does something they call the Impeachment laws in to remove him. I which some people would call the impeachment laws on Pelosi she needs to be removed.

Same here group 27 batteries from the dealer. Even -30*F around here I've never had one issue getting started with 810 CCA (1620 total CCA) Walmart Batteries group 27's.

All I can say waste of money been there done that for 1 year of sport headlight and relay mod. Pattern sucked. The Secondary bulbs make a narrow view pattern of light that runs vertically. I didn't keep these for more than 1 year and sold them. Light pattern was super poor and even with Silverstar Halogens no much light. HID's still win this battle.

Just consider a 2021 vehicle the comes OEM with HIDs lights... all it takes is a minor bumper push and could tweak the light assembly and be blinding people or just don't care about the fact your lights are misadjusted. This could happen with factory lights or aftermarket. Difference is I actually verify my headlights constantly. I'm watching lo beam pattern for being high, only time that happens when I'm over weight. Then it will pull the lights excessively high. Another common is guys doing leveling kits and tire swap to oversized and forget the light pattern changed from the leveling kit and rise of the tires.

Interesting...

Been kind of a rough day fielding calls of others trying to get info about Russ. Tomorrow I'm going get rolling and get two rigs running...

I stopped into his place and talked to his partner (Jerry) that lived there on the property. I talked to her about the jobs left behind and already went into town and got a fuel pump for the Chevy Van that I just had the new pump failed. Got the fuel pump today to warranty it out. Then I just posted about the using farm red dye in his truck I'm still working on trying to find out if his fuel pump on the Cummins is any good which I'll start on tomorrow.

With a sadden heart this morning I just found out my landlord Russell (Russ) Muchler of my other shop passed away last night. We are not sure if he slipped and fell feeding his sheep or had a heart attack. Please offer this man some prayers. So sad to loose my good friend. I've worked with him for many years off and on.

Depends how people want to judge the laws. Some say its illegal to replace any filament style headlight with a LED bulb or HID bulb. Some say its how bright the light is compared to stock halogen (~860 lumens). Most lighting is brighter like my HID's are 4,000 lumens. Like another said its the lens style the D2S is illegal. I was told my white marker lights (switch back bulbs are illegal). Modern vehicles are coming out with LED headlights like Ford did. Then other luxury cars are using HID lighting too. Then the daytime driving light are typically rings around the head lights that switch to amber when turn signal used. At this point I've done nothing that is not already in use by another brand vehicle. Including my illegal tinted windows (35% opacity) which I've never been busted for either. Hey lets throw in the missing license plate lights which have been gone over 10 years. I've never fixed them. I've not had a ticket in over 25 years... Yup! Still counting...

Again the website has been rebuilt since I purchased my headlights. What you see is all new design.

I remember @Me78569 making a calibration tool for the turbo or a way to reset the vane position. I wonder if that would help figure this out.

As long as I remember to drop my hi beam that would be the only way I could put light in your cab. On low beams there is no possible way to put any light in your cab or eyes. Even my PIAA 530 LED driving light have a good cutoff line too. Just not possible to blind anyone. Now with the 1996 Dodge with LEDs bulbs and the clear lens headlights those scatter so bad its possible to catch you in the cab slightly. Again the quality for the 1996 is because of the crude optical and reflector. Hence the scatter. Now Morimoto HIDs are based on the lens and optics are top notch. Now when the lo beam shutter rises from the bottom the cutoff line is made and the pattern is flipped in the lens so the top side is shadow masked. The cutoff line is is also stepped. The step in the cutoff land right on the center line of the highway for me both beam layout perfect on the highway and the patterns layout perfect not out of place left to right. Now the pattern in front of me is slightly enhanced placing more light on my lane. Then the on coming lane is stepped a bit higher so the cutoff is shorter not to blind on coming traffic. Now the cutoff is very visible and the only adjustment I got is vertically, no horizontal. Never had any law enforcement say anything about my Morimoto's yet. Even when I was pulled over for not having my headlight on in Nevada (headlight safety area). He even check my lights make sure they lit up and not said anything. This was during my trip to Arizona hauling the RV back in June IIRC. No ticket given just reminder and he left... After the next vehicle without headlights on.

Quadzilla doesn't use any IAT info at all. Excluded... No effect of IAT while Quadzilla is running or not in Level ZERO. Stock Fuel, Edge Comp or Edge Juice, Smarty all use the IAT and crank up the extra timing and create the negative torque. I fought this for a long time on my Edge Comp. Now with the Quadzilla I don't have any effect of the IAT while the tune is running. But in warm up mode (or Quadzilla level 0) the timing goes high for me I can see it it can reach up to 23* at 2k at about 30*F IAT. Once Quadzilla step up my timing falls back to 19* or 20* @ 2k RPM's. I've got my warm up mode set for 140*F to get into the Quad Timing quicker.

So very true!