Mopar1973Man

AC noise can hit ANY vehicle and create all kind of weird issues. Not just Cummins trucks...

I've only can remember one time that happen. Was my 1978 Dodge Motorhome had 10+ year tires on and lost 1 inner dual and one out dual on both sides at the same time. That was the only time I can remember having to call a tire company for flat repair. My fault for running old tires and going cross country to MN. So far knocking on wood I've only had flat tires with my truck and never had any tread separations or explosive blow out.

When I'm looking fort parts I typically check the NAPA near me, then start working out from there getting to vendors I have agreements with and then maybe check Rockauto. I will admit RockAuto tend to have good prices but for me the shipping is the killer some times could be weeks to get parts. So RockAuto is the slowest answer. NAPA is the quickest answer but can be expensive. My vendors typically is a 2 to 3 day shipping time but the prices are typically better but the inventory could be limited. Kind of like yesterday I'm playing with a 1985 Chevy Suburan with a over fueling issues and MAP sensor code 33. Now I'm calling every where to find a MAP sensor but those old school sensor are hard to find up here.

This why I created the sensor bracket I did so testing is super easy. I just unscrew the sensor add a tee hook up my mechanical gauge and drive. I can do the same thing with the boost sensor too. No digging at the block and fighting to change sensor for test gauge. Losing prime etc.

I was and uninstalled I wasn't going to start all over again. So I deleted the app and quit using facebook. Everything out there is censored, moderated, and most the info is complete BS. Heck even watching the lies pour out the mouths of the news stations.

Because of a warranty issue. Found a nick in the output shaft causing damage to the seal. I sent it back to have the shaft replaced and new seal put in. Still the same box just repaired. I found the problem 2 years ago but with daily trip to Ontario I could down the truck back then so I hang in and got it done this winter. So it only my second box since 425k miles and the same Blue Top box just replaced the shaft and seal. Still doing better than most folks.

I hate to guess at parts and blow good money on part that might not be it. Im leaning towards the VP44.

Ok here we go. From pin to pin (matching color wire) there should be a perfect 0 ohms from point to point. Failure is 5 ohms of greater. Then you leave both unhooked and do pin to ground. This check for wires that are shorting to ground possibly. This should turn up INFINITE ohms for all test but if there is any resistance then that is a fail because there should be no connection to ground if both ends of the wire is open. We do have affiliate program with Quadzilla.

Which is possible too but typically when a VP44 go funny there is codes with it. Hence why I asking for pin to pin ohm test between the ECM and VP44. If the wiring is all checking out then you got to get another clue that point or give reason for expensive parts. Sad part is some times you have to let the problem mature a bit more to show its ugly head. Cutting out is electrical so I would say monitor your Engine Load number for sharp drop off. One of the perks about Quadzilla it doesn't have to be in the vehicle to watch live data. I can have my truck warming up outside and leave my phone on my desk and monitor all system functions from the comfort of my desk. Once you get a live data tool of some sort we can look at the data you've got. Quadzilla would be the best because you could data log a trip with the cut out and it would show up in the data logs so you can see everything that happen the very moment the fuel drops out. Just an example from @Me78569 data repository...

I've gotta ask does this cut out occur also with cruise set? I got to know are you manual transmission with fly by wire cruise or automatic with vacuum cruise? What I like to see if your manual if cruise is set and doesn't happen then the problem is around the APPS. You could pin to pin ohm test from APPS to the ECM and the VP44 to ECM and verify the wiring is good. Still in all ECM controls what the VP44 is going to do. I don't suggest that at all. You could get a live data tool like a OBDLink LX or MX tool and then watch the live data on the CCD Bus. Watching the TPS values for dropping out or sudden changes in engine load (fueling amounts that cut out). You can do the very same without calling the dealer and paying $120 to $150 an hour. Personally not worth it. Smarty S-03 is limited to on 60 HP gain, no real timing or fuel control unless you step up to Smarty Touch but that is $1,800 tuner and now you'll have all those features but still limited to just 60 HP gain. Now Quadzilla provides full fuel, timing and other functions that Smarty can for tuning for fraction of the cost. Being I worked for Smarty for over 3 years and played with a few product I'm not impressed. Basically like @Me78569points out all Smarty does is turn the throttle into a light switch by 30% TPS signal Smarty is pouring fuel at 100%. Now compare... Full timing map Then fuel CANBus fuel map all right on your phone. No PC needed, no flashing the ECM to make adjustment (Quadzilla does this in REAL TIME). Way better tuner over Smarty S-03 or Smarty Touch. Sorry to say. No. Smarty can't read DRBIII code nor can Quadzilla only a Dodge Dealer Star Scan can. You can see my defuel curve and my step up to stock fuel in my mid power range. Completely configurable and way more control over the engine even right down to warming up and cooling down (turbo timer) which Smarty does not have in either product. Quadzilla can't read codes but can follow way more live data right up to seen the commanded timing for the Injection pump. Something Smarty S-03 can't do.

Matter of fact I just released a Zero Boost tune for Quadzilla that has a good street manner but on the upper end it will pour on the power if needed to pass someone. 7 x 0.010 +150 HP Injectors HX35/40 Turbo Estimate on MPG is somewhere near 19 MPG at this time. Still in BETA testing of the tune. There is much more options for getting good MPG without beating up the transmission. If you purchased a Quadzilla I could build a good tune for what you have. Just shows you don't have to stay stock and get MPG too.

Kind of in a nut shell we all have been ramping from 0 PSI up to 30+ PSI in some form of linear ramping of fuel. How about ramp up to stock fuel hold stock fuel for a span and then just up sharply to build power on the upper end? So far I'm very please with the way this tune has functioned. It will hold the turbo at 0 PSI boost for nearly everything. Rolling hills you gotta watch closely to barely see the needle wiggle off the zero mark. Don't let this tune fool you turn the wire tap on and put the pedal down hard she with hit that 15 PSI and the power comes on sharply with both the wire tap and CANBus ramping up together Smoke free tune be serious power on the top, bottom end launching is fairly strong, middle of the road not bad. Drives like a you turned the Quad down to level 2 or level 0. Mild street manners as long as you don't get that turbo excited, once that happens you better hold on. WARNING! - Again this tune is NOT designed for... Racing Towing Heavy cargo hauling This tune is design for daily drivers, that need passing power on two lane roads but cuts back to a mellow driving stance even with the manual throttle. Being the tune hold the boost down considerable it does tend to heat the EGT's a bit more on grade but even in my run yesterday I never exceeded 800 to 1,000°F EGT's. WOT going for broke in Level 3 it comes to rest right at 1,200°F EGT's. Just remember my tires and final ratio do promote lower EGT's than most.

Little secret Blue Top supplies parts to Redhead... Better to go to the actual source...

Yup. Best thing is to get a tuner so you have the boost fooler, fuel management and the timing management. The only tuner today on the market that can do all this and give 180 HP gains is Quadzilla. You could do a Smarty Touch (60 HP) but it will cost you triple the price (about $1,800 to be able to make your own tunes) and 2/3 less power.

Blue Top I'm running is a upgrade since I went down from the 265's to the 245's I upgraded to the "Quick Ratio" box so she is snappy with steering. I've got a few final adjustments to make on my steering center the steering wheel and take just a tick out of the sector adjustment on the gears. She will be a rocketship on rails at that point. I've got a 2005 in the yard I'll be pulling the steering box as well and shipping to Ryan @Blue-Top Steering which happens to be one of our vendors here.

Better yet im running Blue Top Steering.

Tach signal i don't think is frequency but digital info. Tach signal is typically sent by CANBus in a digital signal so as long as there is no P1698, P1694, or code for crank and cam sensors (if applicable). You PCM should have tach signal. If you have a live data tool you can confirm what the dash shows. Like Quadzilla rides on the ECM CANBus so you can't see any PCM info. Just a heads up.

Well I finally got it. I've tested this tune and really surprised you can hold the turbo at ZERO boost even at 65 to 70 MPH. After 150 miles in bit over a 1/8 of tank used. This includes climbing two 7% grades. Really cool to see the boost hang at zero but put it against a grade it barely 5 to 10 PSI boost. EGTs are bit higher climbing so I would not suggest towing or racing with this tune. What makes this tune so neat is the 5 to 14 PSI is flat stock tune 100% no boosted fuel on CANBus. At 15 PSI up it gains at a +5 step so it gains power quickly. Now if you toss in wiretap you better be ready... It pulls extremely strong in the upper boost range. Return to cruise state it hover about 19.5° BTDC at 2k RPM at ZERO boost. So this tune you can have your cake and eat it too... I'll release this tune in the morning...

Lowest mine drops at idle is 188°F coolant. If falling lower then your thermostat possibly stick open a bit longhand drawing too much cool coolant in.

I've still got people out here that have lived generations with out power. Better bring a generator and long cord and can of gas. Like myself be self-contained. You can get the high idle kit. It will help a bunch. Even Quad high idle is better than nothing.

Problem my fuel map might work. But my timing is built around my injectors. Ill tell a bit more of my tune after bit more testing.

Nothing stop members from creating their own write up of what they learned. This is why when you make a new article automatically the forum thread is started so you can discuss about your article and improve it with feedback from the members.

Warm up mode when ON. Warm up mode will force level 0. You'll notice the power bar is GREEN. This means its locked for warm up mode. So the fuel map the 0 PSI position is the power you'll be given. Like my 0 PSI is a 80% fuel. So this is the max till you reach warm up temp. I'm set for 140°F for warm up allowing the timing to step up. Once it reaches your set temp the it will return to your previous set power level. Like me for most stuff I was running level 2. Now I might of figure out a way to have level 2 at level 3 but still playing with my map to see what I produced. I focusing on my MPG tune to get the absolute most from that tune but still allow for added power in the tune for passing with out having to level up and down. I'll release my tune here soon. So far it got enough to spin the tires in level 2 now.

Nothing really... Winter temps here can range (+32°F to -40°F). Most here know I drove my Mom to dialysis for over 5 years and every single morning I just fired up and drove. Subzero weather is nothing. Still ran 15w-40 engine oils (petroleum). I normally let the engine warm to about 100-140°F before rolling. Even this winter the lowest my oil temp has gone at -10°F was barely 158° to 162°F. Day in day out I live in super cold area of Idaho. I do not use any anti-gel fuel products, I do not use any cetane booster. Then only thing I do is turn the key and wait for the light and start. I don't even plug it in till its below 0*F as Cummins suggest. I typically just fire up the 3 CYL high idle and the exhaust brake and have heat in less than 10 minutes and the ice is gone from the windows. This way I'm not hunting for power to block heater because lot of my jobs I end up in the back country away from power at times. 426k miles all I do is turn the key, wait for the WAIT TO START go off and start. No added cetane or anti gels. To this day I've never had a fuel gel issues. Just a couple of days ago.

Simple fix. It will take a bit of work. I'm going to bet your heater core is partial plugged up. So the coolant flow is poor through the heater core. If the heater core is working correctly and coolant is hot (190° to 198°F) then you should be able to feel coolant temp change between heater hoses. Now if the heater core is partial of plugged up mostly the hose will feel the same temperature meaning there was no air to coolant exchange. Like On my truck the hot side is HOT and you can hold the hose for very long. The cold side is warm but MUCH cooler than the hot side. This shows I have excellent heat exchange and getting a majority of the heat from the heater core. Second problem is plug evaporator it will slow the air down greatly. Out here I deal with a lot of rancher that use there truck to feed cows and live stock so hay and pine needles are really common debris I find in the evaporator. This one all I did was change the heater core because the hoses were the same temp (poor coolant flow). Then power washed the evaporator and now the owner today complains that the heater will fry here out. Heck NAPA heater core is cheap and you could have heat like do in a mere day... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRZNH9010015?partTypeName=Heater+Core&keywordInput=heater+core