Mopar1973Man

Most part yes. Mine was the supplied draw draw with my AirDog but I know the truth that Eric and Vulcan Performance produce it. So yeah that is like it but mine was a bit different fitting wise as you seen my photos. The big things... Cut the straw STRAIGHT. No angles! The straw must be with in the thickness of a single quarter coin (my design) or 2 quarter coins (FASS Design) between the straw and the bottom of a empty tank. You may notch the end of the straw but no more than like a 1/8 of a inch and no more. Make sure to measure with the tank EMPTY. A full tank will deflect the bottom by nearly 1/4" from full to empty. The trick is do this all on the empty tank so as the fuel runs out the bottom of the tank will rise back up to the straw allowing everything to be draw up and used. Where cutting to much gap now create the 1/4 tank slosh problem.

Very true. Work around here has been endless. It was very much an off day.

I know that @AH64ID mention to me a while back that exhaust brakes are a double hit. First the exhaust brake can help warm up the IAT being some of the compression gas blow back in the intake. But the bad side is it will put more carbon in your oil during warm up. Even just if I cycle up and down like power up to say 70 MPH and then let my exhaust brake pull me down to 55 MPH I can create IAT pretty fast. I've got my entire grill covered.

Ummm... I'm not that small. Stock 245/75 R16's (30.5 Inches) early 2nd Gen tire size.

Not really... The dealer can only put the DRBIII tool on it and see if there is codes. As for true testing yes you need to pick a rebuilder and have it sent in to verify the ECM isn't physically damaged internally. The dealer won't verify the internals at all being they have zero means to do any electrical rebuilding.

The hole drilled for the draw straw. Not inside the sender bracket. This is the thickness of a standard quarter (coin) between the tip and the tank bottom. Straight cut and then lightly notched with the edge of a grinder. to prevent sucking tight to the bottom. Never had 1/4 tank slosh issues or losing prime on steep grades.

About normal. Mine has been floating 17 to 18 MPG. Now like my last trip I took a scenic route to town and slowed down to 55 MPH. I popped up to 19 MPG. I would be really looking at opting for a 200*F thermostat which will bring the IAT temp up. This winter for me has been mild and the weather floating 30 to 40*F. I didn't opt for the hotter thermostat. Remember colder the air more time it takes to heat the fuel to vapor to go BANG! Cold air is not a friend of MPG at all. I've never seen a reason to bypass the intercooler even with -20*F to -40*F winters.

Shoes typically come with a new vacuum motor. Just make sure to pay attention to the way the fork is mounted on the stem being it can be reversed and doesn't work correctly if flipped.

Could be the vacuum motor has a tear in the diaphragm. I've seen on my 1996 Dodge the vacuum motor had been struck and bent the housing and the shaft was sticking. After replacement it worked better but still hangs on disconnection the shafts. You could pull the vacuum motor and check the fork and collar shoes for wear.

Why would you need all that? MPG mode (of the high idle kit) retards the timing on cold starts. As IAT falls below 80*F then the ECM stacks on another +3 to +4 degrees of timing. Like myself I run the Quadzilla at a 140*F mode so I can switch over to my custom timing quickly. Usually 2 to 3 miles towards New Meadows which is up hill I'm nearly fully warmed up. Now heading down canyon towards Riggins I only need about 5 to 8 miles. Like for winter operation I cover my grill face so no cold air is blowing over the intercooler. Like my last trip to Lewiston I managed to stuff my stick in between the froks and was stuck in 4th gear running 2,300 RPM all the way to the top of the grade. The fan was able to lock and still keep the coolant in check at about 197 to 200*F. Once I got to the top took me about 20 minutes to pull the stick out of the transmission reset the fork and get on my way again.

Just did another trip where I ran right down to EMPTY mark no issues with 1/4 tank slosh or anything she kept on pumping and going.

CAD axles suxs... Basically when you select 4WD then the vacuum is applied to pull the collar over the shaft ends to couple the shafts together. Then when you select N or 2WD then the collar is slid toone side to uncouple the axles. On my 1996 Dodge its temperamental, shift to 4WD it takes a bit to pull the collar over. Then when I select 2WD it will slide the collar partially but not fully till you stop and back up just a few feet then it full released. If you don't it will remain in 4WD till it wants to let go with a sudden POP and slam the collar over. Kind of violent. Then other is climbing steep grades and dropping the manifold vacuum low and it will disconnect some times. Not enough vacuum to hold the collar and floats of the one side and back to 2WD without touching the stick. (rare but happened a few times). Solid axles I've never had one issues with them. Never had any issues with shifting or anything.

All that was done. Just to point out this is a customers truck and I've already swapped my TIPM module on his truck to verify any kind of change. Nope no change. Pull the dash and removed the headlight switch. Wiggled wires nope. Again this entire circuit is not voltage switch like old school but a digital signal sent to the TIPM to turn out which device. When you have a dimmer switch that turns on the wipers and sprays the windshield when your trying to dimmer the HI beam when they worked. It like all the digital messgaes are screwed up and calling for the wrong things like left turn signal is turning on the right turn signal. Then headlights should come on without the key but in this case you need the key on. Left turn signal givens right turn signal Dimmer switch gives passing light flash (hi beam) but includes the wiper and spraying Hazards only flash the right turn signal. Wipers don't have hi speed on low speed. Right turn signal is right. (Correct) It's not a wire connection but a digital signal issue. The mutlifunction switch is only FIVE wires. Not like the older second gens with way more wiring.

Just for info purpose. I had a customers truck here for a Timbo APPS install and shortly later it popped a P1689 code for the VP44. After all my time and installed the VP44 and got it finished. I didn't quite get the APPS plug back in all the way... It created a nice failed started condition. The owner fired up the truck and it was missing and shuddering. I ran and got the code reader and sure enough there was a P0123 code. I simply push the connector together and reset the codes. Very fixable but, what I wanted to show is... IF there is a APPS sensor problem typically 99.9% of the time there is a error code. VP44 issues can be present without any codes thrown. ECM problems typically with have a rash of all hi volt or lo volt codes. Wait to start light problems or P0606 code. You've got the WTS light problem so this is the direction your going to have to travel and have the ECM inspected and tested.

Yup. Mine has the rubber cover well but still vibrated into the cover and just laid there. So all I did was squeeze the terminals with a pair of pliers. Most likely still good but the rear of the ND alternator was really hot when it did start to charge I'm not sure about AC noise or diode issues yet. Being I need he truck for work I just replaced it than getting hung up with a alternator issue leaving me stuck in the back country. I'd really hate like heck to get to job and have the batteries be dead and walking back out. for miles. Heck its only 21*F here this morning. So yeah just replaced it...

Two days ago my CHECK GAGES light came on and the volt gauge sunk to 8V. My USB plug showed 11.9 Volts yup it died. I got a new alternator and a day later it did it again. No error codes either. I checked my PCM protection fuse and sure enough the fuse fell out of the cover. I took a pair of pilers and squeezed the sockets closed again and it fixed. My alternator I've got now is a Bosch not a ND. Yeah make sure to check your fuse holder and be sure its not loose. It weird because mine is taped to the loom and not floppy around.

I've got a 2006 Dodge ram here with some very strange issues electrically. All stems around the headlights and turn signals and the multi-function switch. If you turn the right turn on it actually does light the right turn signal. Now turn on the left and the right is flashing. Turn on the hazards and only the right is flashing. Now turn on the head light there is zero headlight but markers and fog lamps. Try hi or lo beam it will flash for a brief moment but turn on the wipers and spray the windshield. Can't get hi wipers at all only lo. Now what did I do so far... Changed the multi-function switch - Same issue Pulled my 2006 Dodge TIPM and swapped it - Still the same problem (Testing with my own TIPM module which works) Its like the CANBus is getting the wrong message from the multi-function switch. There is only 5 wires coming and going to the mult-function switch. I did find someone badly made headlight bypass relay. Pull all that and return to the factory wiring and got headlights for a short time only on HI beams only. by the time I pull the column apart twice I lost the heads a second time. The owner has brand new LED headlight bulbs which I've seen but hi and lo beam work. Still might get a quick flash when you pull the stalk back but wiper and spray come on. No I did accidently roll the wiper knob on or push the end of the knob in for spray. Make matter worse I've still got his other 2002 Dodge here waiting for a injection pump to come back from the rebuilder. He's got zero vehicle running now. Any info to help out here would be welcomed.

Interesting then the other half is cannabis has been proven to help destroy prostate cancer as well. Here is what I've captured on this topic. Funny part is go to Canada and other countries and there is way more documentation about cannabis and cancer treatments. Prostate cancer http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12746841?dopt=Abstract http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3339795/?tool=pubmed http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22594963 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15753356 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10570948 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19690545

Why I won't have those big over sized tires on it any longer than I have to I'm ditching them as quickly as possible. Dropping the leveling kit out and taking the stress off all the front suspension and axle. When I'm done I will have it setup like what my 2002 is now. Tough, long lasting on parts etc. I'll do it twice and the problems wont be there. No steering brace, no upgraded track bar, etc all those problem will just go away... Just like the last 427k miles on my 2002 Dodge... No different.

Not far from the truth... There is a App for the website now but I'm waiting a bit longer for bugs and issues to be fixed before releasing the Mobile App for the site. Then with the Members Map I could post a location marker as I travel for other to find me. Currently if yo look at New Meadows Idaho it show my pin at home sort of. You can hit My Location up top and then tell it to update to the GPS signal on your phone and presto my location is real time. Hence why all these apps were chosen to be here. The same can be done for broke down vehicle grab the page and hit my Location and update I can see exactly where your at. https://mopar1973man.com/membermap/

My first road trip was taking off and heading to Mohave Valley AZ last year just as the riots started. Then coupled with the COVID-19 crud... It was a very poor trip but my first long haul trip in YEARS. Since MoparMom passed away I finally did get out of the Idaho area and see some different country. This year I'm gearing up to travel as well with the new 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 and doing mobile service work like @IBMobile has in his time. Travel is going to be more common for me soon.

Good to hear... Tidbit for the future... P0381 code is for WTS light. If the circuit is broke or the light is bad it will trip a code.

Building a tune is easy, but getting a good tune that is efficient is a bit tougher. The bit that takes time is really dialing in on setting for timing and fuel map to get the most out. Still today on Level 2 (No CANBus and No Wiretap) it possible for me to pull just enough power to spin the tires free on smooth pavement. This is where you really dial down and find that you building way more power with CANBus and Wiretap on top. So if Level 2 can slip a tire a little just think when I turn it all the way up and stomp it to the floor?

Nice... That should keep the front clip from flexing on you with that extra frame added to the front clip. I keep getting excited to see this thing done. But I know with any grewat artist it takes time to make a masterpiece. @PilotHouse2500you sir are a master at what your doing.