Mopar1973Man

I'm going to start posting the dumb crap I'm seeing on the highway. Last night on my way home from Lewiston ID. I just left Riggins, ID and following a Swift Truck (driving 35 MPH in 55 MPH) and 2 other little vehicles (Both Fords). I seen I had a chance to pass one vehicle and tuck back in line. So I lay into the power and start to slip back in the Ford stomps on his brake pedal heading for the ditch this force me to step on the throttle and over take him a second vehicle. I've never seen such a "D__k move ever" If the Ford would of just keep his cruise control going I would just slip in behind him and waited for the next passing area 2 miles away. Nope he flat out stomped the brakes and dove for the ditch. The lead vehicle in front of me does not have to drive from me but drive for himself. Stupid FORD... For Only Retarded drivers. Even driving a Ford ranger with hazed over headlight and on HI BEAMs even better.

You gotta build a tune for the Quadzilla the default tune is not a good one. All my tunes are built around 150 HP injectors and my turbo HX35/40 Hybrid. I could build you a tune based out of my tune possibly. My last trip to Lewiston, ID with bitter cold no winter front was 18.5 MPG and running 65 to 68 MPH. The biggest thing is not the fuel map but the timing map. Timing mean more that the fuel map. You can have a bad timing map and lose MPG like a stone. Timing wise you looking to make your engine load the lowest. If your timing is off by a little it will typically slide down in MPG. Fuel map can be anything you want for power. Like my Eco mode is limited to 120% Canbus. I don't even use level 3 but level 2. Fuel up to 100% that it but the timing can make or break a good tune. Most start out too high. The 1,500 band I suggest either 13 or 14 degrees. Then figure +3 step up or +4 step up. Like myself I pull all my tunes currently and looking to get my tune to working properly just touching 20 MPG like the past. But my truck has been down more than driven but now I'm trying to resolve the oil leaks. Wire tap make sure you set the starting pressure at 15 to 20 PSI you do not want wire tap coming on while daily driving but only if you lay into the power. Cruise timing you want to aim for about 19* at 2,000 RPM. How many miles on your current injectors? Wore out injectors with low pop pressures will degrade the performance as well. If the pop pressure is slipping down below 293 bar the they are done and wore out. Stock is 310 bar. Lot of injector builder set them for 300 or 305 bar and short the life span for more fuel. I'm running 150 HP injectors from DAP (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) and made 14.3 MPG towing my RV all the way to Arizona. No. I walked away from Edge Comp very smokey tune at +50 HP injectors. No smoke control without losing power. No timing control at all. So you have to drive 55 MPH or slower to get good MPG. I owned a Edge Comp for 11 years of service and will NEVER return. Junk Edge Comp tuner compare to Quadzilla. Which does everything a normal performance guy is looking for. Again the biggest thing is setting up timing. Like my timing... 13.0, 17.5, 22,0, 26.5 27.0 - Start at 13 Degrees then step up +4.5 per band. Cruise timing I measure out the cruise engine load at 65 MPH on flat ground I can typically hold about 19% so giving a small buffer set it for 22%. I'm only using now a +1 cruise timing. Max load timing is 3. Low P{SI timing 2.5*, then timing reduct scale 40% I shorted the reduct timing because under heavy throttle launching it was going dead quiet (no rattle). This is a sign of too far retarded. That right there is all the timing. Timing you play way more. Every time I make a good choice the power gets better on level 2 so far enough to get the tires to spin lose in Lewiston. (Thain Grade). If you make a bad choice then the power is degraded. This is without changing fuel or wiretap settings again with level 2 fuel map is cut to stock. So the only thing can gain power at this point is timing tuning. When that's dialed in then you can get to the fuel tap and other stuff to pour on even more fuel. So at this time on my last trip running Level 2. (No added CANBus or Wiretap fuel Only stock ECM 100%) I'm capable of getting the tires to spin free from light to light in Lewiston. No added power from either CANBus or Wiretap but just running good timing and the power comes so well it will break the tires lose with only just the +150 HP injectors. (No CANBus fuel bonus, No Wiretap fuel bonus). This shows how just timing can make or break a tune.

Double filters are optimal! You would be super surprised to see what my stock filter picks up that a 3um Donaldson will pass. Not to mention I also extended my change interval of filters to 60k miles being that even the AirDog 150 filter at 15k miles is still brand new and white. You have to check the filter media and see what the debris level is. So I quit wasting money changing filters too early.

Never had a reason for Recirc on heating positions. When its pouring 160*F to 170*F out the center vents when is ZERO outside is no problem. Never had a need for recirc on heat. I'm here in the subzero land too. Dodge has had this vent control layout for YEARS! My 1976 Dodge Power Wagon, 1973 Dodge Charger, 1978 Dodge Magnum, 1996 Dodge Ram and even my 2002 Dodge.

Key on pressure is nothing... That little burp of pump is the ECM booting up and the lift pump runs for a brief second pulse then off again. Lift pump doesn't get any signal till the crank sense. Now while cranking it reduces the fuel pressure with 50% duty cycle on and off. Once started the pump runs 100% duty cycle constant on. I tend to prefer the electric pumps being you have your prime cycle and pressure reduction during cranking. With a mechanical pump if you lose prime for any reason you will not get it started again most likely. Like my current customer he HAD a mechanic pump but the regulator failed starve the VP44 out of course ruin the VP44. Now He's got a FASS 150 and it failed in 100 miles too wiping out the VP44. (P0216 and P1689) Again, like I keep telling people the pump is mounted in the "damage path" and the got hosed with all the water and snow from the rear tires. Both failed VP44 and FASS 150. Now doing the warranty work for this customer. I had a nice long chat with FASS tech team on trying to get this resolved.

Stock timing is not efficient by any means. The green bar areas are a good place to stay for stockish trucks. Like 13, 17, 21, 25 (+4 step) would be a good spot to try or 13,16, 19, 22 (+3 step) are both good starts. I've got to run a good drop of timing in the winter due to the high cetane fuels out here. Then when summer gets here I crank it back up and run high timing because of low cetane fuels. QUADZILLA TIMING SECRET If you REALLY want to keep the stock. Then on the timing section set everything to ZERO. Then go into MAX TIMING and set the plus amount of timing ZERO would be stock completely. Like 1500 RPM you go +1 degree. 2K go +2 etc. This was a hidden setting if you wanted to follow the stock timing map. @Me78569has more experience with this.

Should always keep the stock filter! More filters are always better. As for FASS 150 I've got another one in the yard that failed in under 100 miles. Yup! You heard correctly. The customer got a brand new FASS 150 and VP44 and just driving back home from the store in Riggins and it died in front of my place. Towed him in and sure enough the FASS 150 has ZERO PSI. The VP44 is dead as well with P0216 code and P1689 code. Now I'm doing the warranty work.

Personally I would rather keep the AirDog. I'm on my 3rd. First pump lasted 250k miles and 11 years. Second pump was a 3rd gen pump and barely lasted 7k miles seal failed diesel fuel washed out the bearings. Towed home for $450 bucks. CURRENT - 4G AirDog 165 pump head mounted to my filter base. Zero issues. Mechanical pump I feel are too far from the fuel tank. (Personal). The other problem is there is no way to reprime if you get air in the system. There is no priming pump to refill the system. Pumps are design to PUSH fuel, not to suck on a 20 foot long straw. Give it a whirl some time put a bottle of beer on your rear bumper and stuff a 1/2" hose in the bottle and suck, boy, suck! You'll understand after trying. Always best to have the pump as close as possible to the fuel tank. The Current job I got in the yard his previous pump was a belt driven and got fed up with fuel pressure problems (regulator sticking open and dropping the fuel pressure) and went back to FASS 150 (even warned the owner about this). That pump last barely 100 miles and the FASS is at ZERO PSI and failed took the VP44 for the ride with P216 and P1689 codes. (His truck died 2 days after warning him 100 feet from my driveway.) Sent the pump to FASS to be replaced and the VP44 back to Power Driven Diesel. Even while on the the phone with FASS I showed them how to fix this problem so they might actually take me serious about striking filters tires flinging debris at the filters and pump. I explained about anything hang below the frame for offroad use and being in the damage path of the tires. Hence while motors are ruined with snow and water slung at them for years, filter being pulled off and hit by debris. But who knows...

Spec on oil pressure is... 10 PSI at idle 30 PSI at 2000 RPMs ... this is on a fully warmed engine.

I believe the COVID-19 is real but as for death tolls no. Like @Wet VetteEileens daughter got COVID, then her son got it, then her ex-husband got it as well. 14 days later like the normal flu bug its done and over. Now those 3 have lived past it. I still do what I can to stay out of the COVID yeah I wear a mask while in the bigger cities. Even a good friend here that runs the Chevron Station hes got the COVID, his son and wife as well. 14 days later he's back to work no problem. Ask @Wet Vette best friend last night about hospital numbers. She says it packed with COVID some deaths but lot are just going home. Like Eileen's daughter she went in with issues of breathing but then told to go home. Then if you look up the Canadian Study about Cannabis might shock you too. https://www.forbes.com/sites/emilyprice/2020/06/27/researchers-are-looking-at-cannabis-as-a-potential-way-to-prevent-covid-19/?sh=4fbdcc12d885 https://medcitynews.com/2020/07/canadian-researchers-believe-cbd-could-help-to-fight-covid-19-infections/ https://www.ctvnews.ca/health/coronavirus/are-new-cannabis-strains-key-to-fighting-covid-19-these-alta-researchers-think-so-1.5018962 So, personally, I don't think we are getting COVID any time soon... Herbalist to the end.

Just thinking about all the other trucks I've gotta deal with and get crossed up. Some times I get crossed up get interrupted with a phone call and get caught thinking about a different year truck. Totally my bad. @JAG1Mary Jane is typically at night not morning...

Make sure to take it to a shop that can press it on and off. Like a few members here found out if your doing it with a hammer you most likely damage the bearing and shorten its life span. I pulled my driveshaft and took it in and had it checked for true and carrier bearing replacement done. Yeah it cost a bit to have the carrier and u-joints replaced but it was done. Still going on that bearing. I think its a SKF bearing IIRC...

I've got nothing good to say about Biden... Yes, you could text me and the the cellphone would pick up the text then the cellphone notifies my computer I have a text message and then I can just click the notification on the computer and read and reply to the text without ever picking up the phone. The phone just need to be in WiFi range and the computer can sense it. I could leave my phone in the bedroom on the charger and still be in front of the computer and use it. Reverse I could be in the living room but need to change over to YouTube from the computer. I could grab my cellphone use it like a trackpad and mouse over and control the computer to start youtube or video connection to my TV. I can even type URL address on my phone and have it entered on the computer. Either way I can control both devices in any direction.

LOL... I got a huge chuckle about the plug share link. None of those places are outfitted with proper charging station period. Like the Riverside RV park. That is a full RV park right now there is no way to reach a plug if you wanted. Just came back from Lewiston and seen they are full. Like Canyon Pines near me is a RV park but they are full right now with storage of RV's. No way to reach a plug if you wanted. Hartland Inn in New Meadows does not have any charging station. It's a motel. I've driven past there just other day. Grangeville again I know exactly where that Motel 8 is but never seen any charging station. Right along the highway. I just past that 2 days ago heading to Lewiston. Shore Lodge in McCall is a possible spot but never checked on it. I'm going to check on my local places to confirm. Now the listing in Ontario, OR is correct there is a charging station. Still a 2.5 hour drive to get to. I watch that being build every day I took MoparMom to dialysis. I know exact where both are.

New Meadows Idaho is possible of -30*F and -40*F temp rare but does happen. Mostly comes from Montana direction. We at least get some minus weather every winter like last winter only like -2 to -5*F. I was watching the color temp map (NOAA) and seen @Me78569how the cold coming down out of Canada and how it will spread out.

LOL... My neighbor which is @Wet Vetteson @Jthorand he's a diesel runner too. 7.3L Ford Powerstroke straight piped. Then me with my 2002 Cummins straight pipe. My next neighbor either direction is quite distance away and not even heard. So my neighbor just knows to get ready we are heading for work since @Jthor is my apprentice working under me. Typically I don't idle very long just enough to clear the glass if needed. Even its +19*F this morning I would just start and roll out.

Not hard at all. Really it just names on software... Adobe Photoshop $240 -> GNU Image Manipulation Program (GIMP) - FREE Microsoft Office $140 -> Libre Office (Included with Ubuntu for FREE) List goes on... Linux Software is FREE. 62,372 different apps all for FREE. The list is actually even larger! Just depends on how big you make your repository. Even a bonus my cellphone is already tied to the computer so if my phone rings, I'm prompted. If I get a text message its displayed on my computer. If you look up toward the top right the cellphone icon is in my notification bar. Ubuntu Linux and Android Linux work hand in hand. Even back up my cellphone if I want too.

Ummm... I'm using Quickbooks on Ubuntu Linux 20.04.1... Might check again being Intuit Products can be used on browser... https://quickbooks.intuit.com/self-employed/ Even if forced to Windows, I can use Virtual Box for my Windows 7... https://www.virtualbox.org/ This allows you to load Windows in a Virtual Machine. This makes the Windows Bulletproof. Its all behind my Linux firewall and don't even use a anti-virus on Windows. Even if I DID get a virus it will NOT infect my Linux because the virtual box is virtual hard drive and does not infect the Linux. Just delete the virtual drive and start over. I can even back up that image just after install and flash it back in action in less than a few minutes. Less down time period. I have zero network connection to Windows unless I permit it. Matter of fact since I upgraded hard drives I've never reloaded Windows 7 on my virtual box for over a year now. Found Linux versions of everything...

Level 2 and 3 are basically same MPG wise. 4 and up well that changes things. Level 2 I'm using for traction purpose. like this morning its +19*F yup very slick around here.

Touche` I grab the 3 CYL high idle and exhaust brake in under 10 minutes the coolant is 170*F and the ice gone from the windshield. I can plug in at home but once on the road there is no where to plug in. Again the high idle is to my rescue and I can warm up the truck faster than plugging in.

The element is a 750 watt 120 VAC element. 750 Watts = 120 Votls x 6.25 Amps. Heck its +19*F (-7*F) outside and the truck is outside in he cold I won't even think about a block heater till 0*F (-17*C). Even then I'd only plug in hour before I need to leave. Parked outside the heat is wasted in the into the air. If I was parked in the unheated shop I would plug it in and leave it being the heat is not wasted but heating the shop a few degrees.

That's the stupid part everyone thinks electric vehicles are free. Someone is paying for that power either going to be a rise in taxes or just your home power bill. trust me when I'm sitting here its a mere +63*F in the house, +19*F outside, I'm running out of firewood. Yeah I know this month is going be a $200 plus a month just to keep warm, now toss in a massive battery for a vehicle, that draws power like my electric dryer or my heat pump. You can safely figure in just doubling my power bill. Regardless your still paying for the electricity some how. Power plant still emit CO2 into the air just as much as you drive your electric car around just emitted from the power plant not your car. Still not fixing the issues of reducing CO2 emission. Still in all HP (fuel) to HP (electric) is going to require X amount of amp hours (electric) stored to travel. For mountain area like where I'm at just not effective. I'm now seeing electric cars once in awhile out run there charge and left stuck. Currently if you leave Boise there is NOTHING north to recharge a electric vehicle I know Ontario, OR has a few charging stations but nothing north of Boise. Lewiston ID I've not seen any charging stations as of yet unless they are hidden down a side street. Kind of like when I was buying my truck there wasn't any diesel fuel available in my area but maybe one or two stations and expensive. Now with the amount of diesel vehicles diesel fuel is available just about every where. I almost opted for a 60 fuel tank where purchasing my 2002 Dodge.

If I ever got you to jump ship to Linux it would be even faster. Windows is extremely heavy system load wise. A peek at my Conky panel with all my system stats. Fun part is this machine was built back in 2006 with AMD AM2 processor (4 core). Still quick! Take notice I've got basically 16 GB of RAM (1.2 used for Video RAM). Only need 4 GB for just working in Ubuntu Linux. If I fire up Windows 7 (Virtual Box) it will suck up every last drop of RAM instantly. As you can see I've got my 250GB SSD Drive on my ROOT folder so only my read only files are there this will extend the life of the drive. Being most SSD are good for 100,000 writes to every sector. As you also see Linux created a 2GB swap file but no used at all. My writing drive is the mechanic hybrid which is a 1 TB in size. Then my Backup drive which Linux does automatically every daily is a older 2 TB drive. Yes the Hybrid drive works great for long sequential reading where random is still not stellar vs straight mechanical.

Remember your Ford van head is a incomplete chassis since it is the RV manufacture might of added other subsystems to that. Still will keep you slightly in the dark. Like My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree had the factory fuse clip under the dash. Now the rest of the subsystem was behind the seat no wiring map or labels on anything. Lucky park my Dad was smart man and shoved all the manuals in a small cupboard above the fridge. Another thing you can try is searching for that year make and model of RV on the internet you might find PDF'ed manual for the RV side. I managed to do this for my current 2000 Jayco and got every manual for everything including the RV manual. Take a peek...

You've got a leak some where. Double check your CAD axle system really common for vacuum leaks in the CAD system. Vacuum should be instant. No waiting to build. Vacuum leaks will make everything slow to react.