Mopar1973Man

Came in the kit when I installed my AirDog... Same straw for 15 years never had a 1/4 tank issue.

Exactly. This is proper ECM control of the lift pump it switches the 12V on and off at a about 50% duty cycle to reduce fuel pressure. This is so the proper cycle of the lift pump and should bounce the pressure at 7 to 12 PSI.

You remove the filler neck and filler hose. The LARGER hose you cut and slip in the return fitting. The smaller vent hose is left alone.

Like myself... 7 x 0.010 DAP injectors popped at 320 bar. HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12) Quadzilla Adrenaline Smarty/Edge stack is bad deal for sure. Stacking any tuner is a bad deal. First off neither tuner has good timing control. Then you made a light switch out of the throttle. It can be 100% fuel by 30% throttle position. Too much fuel and no enough timing control. Trust me... I was a ex-Edge Comp runner and managed to make a heck of a high MPG number of 27.2 MPG. The problem is you have to drive below 60 MPH to keep the high timing on Edge products. Then with bigger injectors the timing is too retard and now it creates a lot of EGT's. Where with the Quadzilla I can up the timing to meet the injectors needs.

During the install you put the return tee in the filler hose not the vent hose. Just hose clamps in. Exactly why... The fuel coming out of the head is heated to near coolant temps. Then you drop back in a small cup of the sender and now pump it right back to the VP44. Never had a heat issue since my AirDog install. Back with the old school stock pump I use to turn the filters black from the heated fuel asphaltenes (if I correct in spelling). No longer happens since my fuel temp remains low typically same as the intake temp. Still not having 1/4 tank issues either.

I towed my 31 foot RV all the way to Mohave Valley AZ never had hsat issue with the engine. Lot of grades held my EGTs at 1,000 to 1,100°F but never got hot coolant wise. My biggest problem was transmission temp on the long grades. It was the radiant heat from the exhaust heating the transmission. I built a simple heat shield and drop 40°F on average.

I will no longer will suggest deletes. After seeing how dealers will not sell deleted truck or even take them in. Too much trouble to delete then gave laws change and get caught with a truck missing all the smog stuff.

Mine is slightly different. AirDog return is not in the basket. Mine is in the tank filler tube and my pickup is not in the basket either. It in the cooler part of the tank. So for those returning to the basket and the drawing from the basket is going to have the highest fuel temps. Since my returning fuel from the engine is in the basket I don't see the heat from the engine being the AirDog picks up out of the main fuel area and the AirDog return is away from the straw so I don't get all the foamy fuel either.

Timbos APPS is a completely a mechanic APPS. There is no electronics and just a simple rheostat.

Not needed being the weight of the fluid cannot be pulled back up out of the jar. Hence why the mayo jar works so good and doesn't need a helper for the screw and why it can be done solo. No need for pumps, or expensive check valves or special caps for the reservoir.

Um... Hyundai Elantra is not 4 down towing ready. I'm not buying a tow dolly just for that. Ugh...

Do the W-T ground wire mod... That will fix the ground wire problem.

@Wet Vette finally got it figured out shopping trips to Lewiston, ID or Ontario, OR are now done with the truck. We has a second go around trying to do some shopping for a camping trip and loaded up with both grandkids (Parker and Kayden) and started to run out of room in her little Hyundai. It was stuffed. Now she wants to take the truck because it will hold the shopping easier than stuffing the little car.

Typically it was only the 12V with overflow problems because the bolt was soft steel and the ball would beat the seat out. 24V overflow valves typically don't fail. I know you have the belt driven lift pump. Heck I just did a 16 hour day, ran my truck over 414 miles doing a injection pump job in Anatone, WA. The entire day was cool out and truck was kept running most of the day with driving. I had temps ranging from about 65*F to a high of 80*F in Lewiston. Climbing 3 different grades and a few good twisting roads. I even had to go back to Lewiston for a special tool to pull injectors and back to Anatone, WA in the back country. Fuel temp never over 120*F the entire day, 414 miles, 5am to 9pm... Long day...

Mayo jar hooked to the bleed and pump straight in the jar. I change brake fluid every 30k miles. Yes I full stroke of the pedal and no problems after 418k miles. I know most say don't do this. Like my 2002 has a aluminum master cylinder and being I make sure to change the fluid before its moisture loaded and rotting the seals. So this is the main reason I don't work about full stroke of the brake pedal. Full that gets this dark is loaded with moisture hence why the brake fluid start weakening the seals in the master, wheel cylinders, calipers and even hoses. Again 418k miles and no issues even with brake hoses.

Shaving off the manifold is something you would do for a super high HP engine there is no gains to that for a daily driver. I'm running bigger injectors than you and just a slightly smaller turbo but still all stock air system and most likely have lower EGT's than most here.

Like I said final ratio is going to impact the power to the ground. Final ratio between 3.55 to 3.73 really does improve power output. As you seen in the tire adjustment of the Smarty will get you the right odometer reading and show correct speed and miles travelled. Just remember if you return to stock the speed adjust is lost.

Missing the point of the error its about the IVS switches (Idle Validation Switches). It uses a 5V signal and and toggle the two leads for 5 volt signal. This error is saying that BOTH idle position and throttle position is both LO VOLTS. Timbos APPS exposed there is NO electronics to magic just manual switches. Do the diagnostics on the error code to verify the wiring and then we'll go from there.

Are you full 1/2" line between the fuel tank and VP44? I just did a 414 mile trip to Anatone WA to install a injection pump on a Case C580 backhoe. Never got over 120*F fuel temp and even coming home only had about 3/8 of tank of fuel still stayed under 120*F the entire trip. AirDog 150 with 165 Pump. Full 1/2" from tank to VP44 Idle 17 PSI Cruise @ 65 MPH - 16 PSI WOT - 15 PSI. I do need to change my fuel filter getting close to 60k miles on these filters.

It will make it tough to start because fuel pressure is too high during cranking you want 7 to 12 PSI during cranking. So this is not a good way of starting up a fresh VP44. You should only open 1,3,4 lines that it. Leave the other closed. Crank it till it nearly starts or starts and close the lines up. Yo should have to open a all the lines. You need some kept closed so the pump can build pressure against something. Once 1,3,4 clear out and pumping then close them and it will start and run on 1,3,4 and now the pump can clear 2,5,6 with pump running. Typically clears fairly easy. I've got one at my house brand new DAP VP44 that failed on first start one of my first ones. Started and ran limited to 1,300 RPM and several error codes. I just got the new pump on Tues day and today got to change it out. Another re-prime and startup. I've gotten to about 1.5 to 2.0 hours to change a VP44 pretty simple.

Still we'll see in time... Gotta wait for him to get here with two batteries and throw out bearing.

I've got experience and it work great as long as its 3 and 9 position. Good pattern but no where good as a Quality HID (Morimoto D2S). Pattern is hot spotted in the highway has OK shoulder coverage.

I've not clean the IAT for over 200k miles. I will never clean it again being it has ZERO impact if its dirt or not. If you monitor IAT temp with the Quadzilla or live data tool you can check ther IAT and Engine Coolant should match at the first start of the day. Then there is nothing wrong and no need for cleaning.

Common by hunters to grab a spot month in advance and leave the RV holding up a spot. Even though there is no vehicle and every left out. USFS fights this every year.

Just make sure you use a soft object to split the case plastic putty knife is good. Small plastic or rubber hammer works good to get it started.