Mopar1973Man

Timbo APPS has no voltage to set. It's fully mechanical APPS and no electronics. Stock APPS requires the voltage to be correct for the IVS (Idle Validation Switches). The voltage is used to tell the ECM if the driver is THROTTLING or IDLING. When it in the IDLING state the APPS sensor is igniored and the ECM software is used to set the 800 RPM. Once the voltage rises past the idle state then the ECM is told to listen to APPS sensor value. OEM APPS sensor has electronics in it to tell the ECM what to do.

Boost fooler is not working correctly. CCD Network issues.

Rebuild kits are cheap. For RV275 injectors that HX35W will work fine.

I never done anything per se to dress up my truck. The only thing I've done is kept my engine bay clean. When a leak occurs find it and stop it. Wash down the engine when I wash the truck. Lately I need to do that more really. Pretty dirty. Typically I don't bother with a bunch of paint or dress up. Just keeping it clean is just a big crowd pleaser for most. When you own a 18 year old truck and its still clean under the hood and in the cab. Most people are shock when I open that hood and there is a clean stock looking engine.

Airbag light is most likely the clockspring in the steering column. Again the clockspring takes care of the cruise functions. It's a variable voltage. Say like 1 volt does one function, 2 volts does another, etc. There is 5 volts in that line but the cruise sends back different voltage message for each function. Transfer case is easy just remove from the truck and split the case open and seal the mating faces again. Then there is a front seal and a rear shaft seals just pull the out and replace. Make sure there there is no wore groove in the shafts. Fly by wire cruise basically the throttle signal is sent from the PCM directly to the ECM. No vacuum motor used being there is no automatic transmission with a Throttle Valve (TV) to pull. Since the only reason for vacuum direct cruise is the automatic transmission. Now if the PCM is the wrong one it will send out on the 4 wire plug. there is roughly 50 some odd software version per year for the PCM. Wrong software on just one module makes all kind of weird issues. Both the ECM and PCM should be matching years and should be matching VIN wise too... I know several have done swaps of modules but it has to be done right. I've used Auto Computer Specialist to get my PCM replaced after my alternator fried it. Provided me correct VIN number and even proper software for my year, make and model. They even have a harness repair there too so you could send in your harness and have it repaired like new!

Please do... Articles really do help a bunch of folk to just read what it took to make the upgrade or project...

Exactly!

I would have to refer you to @Dynamiche's our site transmission guru. He should be able to tell us why the torque convert is cycling all the time on you. Jon Elford is a good guy. He's built my 46RE to be pretty bulletproof for 5.9L V8 gasser. Even when last winter my 1996 Dodge was dropping to first gear randomly he had the answer. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Cold mornings (< 32*F)... Mine will act like it locked up for about 30 seconds and then unlock and the oil moves to the reservoir in the hub. Normal spring,summer and fall it just spin loose. Still factory OEM fan clutch and still fully locked typically by 210*F. The rest of the time free spins.

Air in the hydraulic system? Have you tried to bleed the clutch out again. Pull it all out as a full piece. Then hang the reservoir high and let it all hang. Now quickly press the clutch slave in rapidly and hard and hold for a few seconds. Then slowly release the pin back out. As you press it in you quickly pushing air upwards to the reservoir to get out. Then when you pause you allow the air to continue up as far as possible. Then slowlly letting out the slave pin allows to reload the slave cylinder without pulling air back down. Do this about 5 to 10 times and you should be ready to install again and work better.

The whole thing behind the rake is so you can carry a load without your headlight shining in the sky because its swatting in the rear. Any leveling kit you put on the the rear will sag down when loaded. I've been up close to the 26,000 pound limit on my registration of my plates. Here I am with GCW of ~17,300 pounds, and about 62 foot long total. Sitting level. (Nevada 2020) Another... My truck is always level towing. No need for lift in the front. Level hauling 2 cords of firewood... Another hauling hay... Five 1-ton bails that's 10,000 pounds just in hay on a bumper pull car trailer.

Vacuum controlled. The door motor is on the passenger side near the kick panel you might see it. You would have to apply vacuum to the side that pulls the door closed.

There is a bunch of pre-made tunes in the download area. Take a peek...

Ok. The only thing I can think of output speed sensor is goofy. Possibly rear axle speed sensor.

Alternator can generate any power with the field lead unhooked.

No. iQuad V2 software is way different.

I was talking to a gent today about this and he was suggesting a air bag system for people that tow heavy constantly to have a independent air controller for left and right in the cab. Makes the best towing when you long hauling. You can adjust on the fly to smooth out rough patches. For people just once in awhile.. Shock would be the first stop. Kind of like myself I tow but not daily. Hence why I don't have air bags...

Not to hijack... Matter of fact. I just got me a local guy (J. Stewart) that is retired and willing to do alignments and custom alignments for lifted Dodge Truck and he lives right in Riggins, ID. I told him if I had any that needed help I would send them. He dropped off a Chevy A/C for me to look at... His story was of a Chevy car that had alignment issue. The owner was a very obese lady. He was the only one that was capable of customizing the align for the offset of weight to make it right. All the shops were using factory numbers which won't work. Same applies to the truck when you lift you change everything so you have to customize the alignment because it no longer factory height.

Personally I think it still the alternator. The only thing I can suggest is measuring while your driving and see if the AC noise is rising while under load. The only thing that causes the AC noise is a alternator. If you pull the field lead and test drive again it should be normal.

How I know this I managed to destroy my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with a lift kit and manage to eat ball joint for lunch, tie rod failures very common. I made myself a promise I'd never lift or modify my new truck. Ever since I made that promise I've NEVER had any steering issues. Keep the geometry correct. In a mere 100k miles I managed to ruin that 1972 Dodge to the point I use it for the trade in on my current 2002 Dodge.

Did you test your current alternaotr for AC ripple? The ground wire mod will not fix a bad alternator.

Not true. I'm completely factory height, no lifts, had my front axle aligned back at 350k with my first set of tie rods. My truck has always had good lane holding. Hold center extremely well. At 300k I replace my stock steering box for a quick ratio. (Don't add one if over 31" tires) You need o use a standard ratio box because of the wide wheel this give better ratio to pulling wide tires. Since I'm running 245's stock tire size I've never had steering issues, death wobble or anything. Again the geometry is correct and no issues to report as I passing 421k miles. If it not handling well then the geometry is not right. Factory power steering pump (Never replaced) Ball joints replaced at 180k miles and still going on these. (241k miles and counting - Cheap RockAuto) Steering box replaced at 300k miles and install Blue top quick ratio (Input shaft seal damage by rust) Stock Track Bar is about 150k miles to change. No death wobble ever! Truck below...

Won't work. For one there is large drain holes on the cowl that will draw in air. The cowl filters don't capture fine dist just large debris. Like I gleen this knowledge from watching older gent in Rhode Island try and keep mice out of his truck. The biggest entry is the HVAC case to the cowl. He was stuffing stainless pot scrubbers in every hole he could. There is just no way to keeping the debris and dust out of the system. The only thing I can suggest is run MAX A/C when your running dirt roads or super dusty conditions.

Are you hauling heavy commonly? I would consider air bags possibly to aid in suppression of the bounce. I would consider having a in-cab controller for the air bags so you can inflate or deflate as the road condition require. We've got a few old instates and concrete highways too. I've ran both Rancho's and now KYB shocks. Both are good shocks and help with bounce some what. Most here will jump for the Bilstein's shocks.

Most likely not. You not lift off the axle but pushing the axle downwards which turns the caster neutral. Ive seen several lifted truck and the steering just purely sucks. Wanders quite a bit more. Because for the lift and caster being neutral or not correct. Most don't even take it in to have the caster angle reset. Most whine about the poor steering, problems with darting, poor lane holding, a few months later. I seen a shop that installed a 2 inch lift on a Ford and watch the mechanic use a come-a-long to pull the axle over enough to hook up the track bar. Then just seeing how far the axle caster angle changed is rather note worthy. After it was done, I drove it and not impressed the entire handling was change for the worst. @JAG1 just pulled his 2 inch out and return to 1 inch lift and made the road handling much better. Again he never aligned afterwards and never correct the caster angles. He did have a adjustable track bar. He had the thrust angle correct. Biggest thing is returning the geometry to the axle. If you going to lift the front then make sure the geometry is returned and possibly tweak so the steering and handling is corrected.