Mopar1973Man

Make sure you have the right wiring then there is no modification you need to do. The only one is after you install is the W-T ground wire mod. Maybe the PCM protection fuse.

This is why I disconnect my grid heater in the summer to reduce wear on the relays in the summer when they are not needed.

I got called to this local gents place. It's a 2017 Ram EcoDiesel. I grabbed a code reader and it had a EGR temp sensor hi code twice. Then a code for intake leak. The manifold start smoking and smells of burnt plastic when its running. Come to find out this truck has a EGR and EGR cooler recall. I told the gent that there is no sense in me fixing it for a price when the dealer can fix under the recall for free. Time passes. Now the owner of the truck gets a friend with a flat bed trailer. Calls me up because the truck will not start and there is no way to shift to neutral. Being smart I grab my phone then ask about WiFi but the gent doesn't have any but his neighbor behind him I done work in the past and got his WiFi so I found a video that explains how to shift into neutral. Basically there is a small square panel above the parking brake release you remove. When you pry that panel off you have to use a key or my pocket knife to slide the level lock over to right in the notch. Now at the same time pull the level out with the orange/red strap.You'll hear a click and now the transmission is in Neutral. We proceeded in loading up the truck so the gent can get it service on Monday. Also I really do think there injector damage too. Refuses to start or run at all. Did start and idle when I first looked at it but now no start or run. Starter spins for a mere 2-3 seconds and it just dies.

Like myself the ground wire came loose. The bolt I used on the hood hinge worked loose from all the vibration of washboard roads and loosened up and created all kinds of hell when the Quadzilla losing power. I part I missed on mine at least I was check +12V power but forgot the grounds.

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Here you go... My decade long study...

Lack of lubricity... If pressure is good then the lubricity is too low and bound up the timing piston.

Like I was figuring out guys in the south with high fuel temp passing 150°F to 160°F where I don't see that problem the only thing I can wrap it up with is the fact the source of new fuel in the sender is captive where the hot fuel is stored. Then suck up the heat fuel again and again heating up. Pumps will only recirculate the hot fuel back in forth in that small cup of the fuel tank sender and wonder why the fuel temp is high. Since I installed my AirDog 150 back in 2006... I've not seen any Asphaltene in my filters since then. Fuel temps remain much lower than most that use the fuel sender cup for capture point.

I don't... I normally clean the splines off with brake clean and don't add any grease to the splines of the input shaft. Just seems to collect dust and debris. Adding to wear of the input shaft. Without grease then the debris doesn't stick and the plate(s) don't gum up with dust loaded grease.

Guilty as charged... Being I've done so much ground wire changes to the engine already and mindful of weird issues. Just never thought that it would bite me that way and create all kinds of issues. Live and learn. Let me know if I need to settle up or just swap back modules.

Dang... Morning started at 5am this morning two cups of coffee later I'm already done work on site theme slightly, then handled all the replies I did. Trying to schedule a server move to the new hosting company. Man I'm tired and I just go up and worked nearly 2 hours at this.

Here is a clip of yesterday heading towards McCall ID and the lack of blue skies and dense fire smoke flood us out.

So fuel systems don't return at all. Like Dodge DDRP pumps. These pumps are known for cavitation problems. Pumps that return like AirDog, FASS with twin filters typically will return to the filler neck for air removal and return from the regulator of the pump. These typically return to the filler neck like @JAG1said. Still the engine fuel return is still in the stock sender of the tank. I don't want to draw up fuel that is heated to near coolant level being it drains out of the back of the head from the injectors. The the heated fuel from the injection pump. All dump back in a sump of the sender heated to near coolant temps. So my old drawstraw that everyone hates is the best option for cooled fuel and reducing the VP44 fuel temps. Even in the winter time with my stock filter I can still keep the fuel warm enough to prevent gelling at -40*F which I did several times no problem.

Heck that bolt has moved in like 7 years till the last wood cutting trip I shook the truck pretty good as I was climbing the grade and the rough wash board. Dodge mades it but the Cummins shakes it loose... Got to admit runs much better.

Ok... Now I feel like a total idiot... I've gotta say "Sorry, to @Quadzilla Power" I got my new module and send back my old module after testing the old module one last time. Needless to say the new unit acted just as weird and goofy. Every time I ease out the clutch the iQuad app would disconnect. Then if I continued to drive the iQuad remains out but now tossed MAP sensor codes. Double check the MAP. Cleared the codes. Check for +12V on the red/white and the red wire. All good. Check the ground wire... The bolt was ready to fall out... So I'm betting Marco fires up my old module and finds it still functional. After I tighten the ground bolt again ALL problems stopped. Running up that rough road to go firewood cutting shook the truck pretty good so when the bolt backed out of the ground wire the module dropped and fed all kinds of weird message causing the weird throttle and knocking. So I technically owe @Quadzilla Power for the new module it was my end that failed.

Best having the straw in the tank not the sender. Returning hot fuel to the VP44 isn't good. The the measurement for inside the sender is very limited. This why I kept my draw straw where it at for over 20 years now always been able to draw the tank empty (actually empty on the gauge). All about how tight you can get the tip to the bottom of the tank as when it gets empty. When you fill the tank the bottom will deflect downward another 1/8" of so. Never measure with a tank that has fuel in it. Never had 1/4 slosh problems and always had cooler fuel temps than most. 420k miles and ticking...

Ok back on track. Fuel pressure wise I would look at for any kinks in the hoses, any loose suction lines might be weeping air, etc.

Right here... We are providing picture hosting with a subscription. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/

Too squirrelly... Should hover 795 to 805 RPM. Target is 800 RPM. I would consider testing injectors.

No. Return to sender is HOT fuel. You do not to draw that back up. Adding more heat to the VP44. My typically fuel temp is about 110 to 120F... draw from the tank is much cooler fuel.

Not always. But yes typically there is a code.

Remove the Quadzilla test again. Like I found out it can foul the idle and other thing when my Quadzilla failed. If it still not working right then I would consider a new VP44.

Yeah try and get live data of the rail pressure and what your idle engine load is.

Videos do load... What is your engine load on al ive data tool or Quadzilla? What is your idle speed without your foot on the throttle? Any error codes?